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Gary Clark 1

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Everything posted by Gary Clark 1

  1. Hi Ray I can print one for you. That's why I got the printer in the first place, great for exhaust stacks, engines, pilots, cockpits, everything really! Just let me know what size youd like and I can sort you out with something. Gary
  2. Looking forward to following along Ray, I've always been a big fan of Brian Taylor. A 3d printed radial is simple, cheap and looks great for very little effort Gary
  3. Thanks John. I just use a scroll saw to get close then a disc sander to get them exact. For the middle holes, i cut a rough shape with a dremel multipurpose cutting bit then tidy with the sanding drum on the dremel. Works with 1/8 ply but any thicker the centre hole technique doesn't really work. Gary
  4. Finally got my hunter started. I have started a new thread for it Here Gary
  5. Hi, I have eventually managed to start my TN Hawker Hunter. I have put my Kougar refurb aside for a bit because i'm waiting for a few bit to arrive that are on back order. The plan is going to be standard build, tissue and dope the painted but i'm not sure of a paint scheme yet. I like the 2 below but worried about visibility I want a Royal Navy scheme (as a serving matelot) but there isn't a lot of high vis ones to choose from. Anyway, build started buy cutting the kit Got the formers, stringers and fan all fitted. Started the sheeting but leaving that to dry overnight before continuing. Fin is cut and shaped and made a start of the horizontal stab. I think this should go fairly quickly Gary
  6. More progress has been made on the kougar. The wing has 1 retract in and has been tidied up overall. Tail has been remade but I'm not totally happy with the glassing again so might have to start attempt 3 Cowl and nose gear are in as seen below More work needed to reinforce and tidy up but getting there with it. I have emailed 4max about a motor as the one i was planning on using needed a 13" prop and i don't have the clearance. i really id like to stay with 4s battery for weight and also i have a few of those around already. Gary
  7. Thanks guys. I'll give the L285 a go and see how i get on. It is probably the most expensive option but Phil's help was excellent so happy to give him the business. Danny, really enjoy your builds and also the helpful articles and videos. I've copied many of your techniques over the years! Gary
  8. I've just had a chat with Phil at fighteraces and he was excellent. He reckons it's the fact zpoxy is a bit thick and combined with a potentially tight weave on the ply has resulted in poor flown and therefore an uneven finish. I've ordered the L285 (which is out of stock but back in next week hopefully) and from what phil has said the results should be much better. I always like to hear the different ways people build/finish/fly models as there is always a chance there is a new way I haven't tried that could improve the end result so thanks for everyone's opinions. If it works for you then it's right in my opinion! I'll give an update in a couple of weeks to see how the L285 does. Thanks again chaps Gary
  9. I ordered a large roll a few years back Alan and I cant remember exactly what weight cloth I have but pretty sure it would be the 25g/square m stuff Gary
  10. Thanks for all that info guys, I think investing in some fighter aces epoxy might be worthwhile but they're website seems fairly basic just now and with very little on. I have a suspicion that the warping may because i brought the parts in from the garage and glassed them that day instead of letting the wood get used to the different environment first. I've only used spray on primer so will give some brush on a go and see how that comes out. The peel ply does leave a very even finish but I was hoping the weave was going to be more filled than I'm getting just now but that could be me being overly optimistic! Gary
  11. Hi Alan, Thanks for the advice, all very helpful. What resin would you recommend? My zpoxy is nearly finished so need to restock soon anyway. Thanks again Gary
  12. As a side note, the surfaces i've glassed are flat sheet (tailplane and fin) which have both curved whilst curing overnight. This is something I've not seen before when doing the credit card, flow coat method. Anyone else had that and if so, how to stop it?! Gary
  13. I'm using the same cloth I've used for years (cant remember the exact weight) for finishing models and peel ply I got from East coast fiberglass supplies. I'm using Zpoxy finishing resin as I've used before and using sponge brush to wet the glass cloth (I've only ever previously used the credit card method) as per Danny Fenton videos. The room is approx 22 degrees. Thanks Gary
  14. Hi, I am fairly experienced when it comes to fiberglassing but started to try peel ply after seen some excellent reviews. I have watched several videos and enjoy all the bits Danny Fenton puts up (not just the glassing stuff) and it seems after peel ply you can give it a quick sand then prime. My results however have resulted in a poor finish that looks like the flow coat hasnt been applied and covered in pin holes. Does anyone have more advise on this? Thanks in advance Gary
  15. Haha I'd be having more fun if I only had to do things once Ron! It will be worth it when the old lass is back in the air
  16. Post christmas carnage is complete and I e managed to get some work done on the kougar. First job was to remake the tail parts Still got the leading edges to shape and re-hinge and bloody hope they stay flat when glassing this time! The majority of the wing is back to a starting point and ready to fit retracts and ailerons Replacement leading edge is on now and ready to be drilled for the mounting dowels. Got bits and Bob's done on the fuse but nothing worth showing yet. If I'm being honest, if these were easier to get hold of now then I'd just have bought a new one as this is more work than I thought initially Gary
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