TIM Shaw
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Everything posted by TIM Shaw
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I'm with Donald. I think of myself as a lapsed IC man, getting back into it, but while I like to think I know 2 strokes, I kind of lost my mojo messing with the 4s. Sure, you need to check your tappet clearances first, then flush out all the plumbing. I'd remove the main needle entirely and flush fresh fuel through the spray bar. Then run it on the ground and get it to hit full throttle, opening the main needle as necessary.. If t won't peak out, then yes, you need to look at the internals, but much more likely is a splodge of something causing a partial blockage in the carburation system. HTH Tim
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M2 threads on piano wire
TIM Shaw replied to Richard Walton's topic in Model Engineering and Accessories
I agree with Andy - used that technique on F3f gliders with no problems. I've also tried threading the other end of threaded rods too, and found it difficult and rarely 100% succesful. As regards soldering an extension on, I'd rather do that these days than try to cut a thread with a die. But I try to never have threads on both ends of a control rod anyway. Unlikely as it seems, I once witnessed a nice, 60 powered model go in with elevator failure, and the post mortem revealed the threaded rod had screwed itself right into one clevis, and right out of the other one. -
Errr So far as I know Dave Bishop does the commentary?
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Hi Tony I've built wings partially sheeted like that in the past and always had problems with the film wanting to stick to the foam when I've covered them, usually in the middle of the rib bay. The foam surface shows through and spoils the finish, so these days I tend to cut the exposed foam away (soldering iron works well...) All teh strength is in the skins, so you end up with a small weight saving for no strength loss as well.
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Wot he said! I've been nailing model planes together for about 50 years and have yet to do a decent job on a canopy. Good to know of another foam though. I've been told we need to get some compost tomorrow and places like B& Q tend to be cheaper than the Garden Centres.. LDs looking good, almost razor plane time then? Always find that the most satisfying myself, someone over the pond put it beautifully when he said " so you stick a totem pole together, then carve a canoe out of it?" In my own case, its usually followed bu the "B(*&$%$%&% it! I've F**895969ed up the covering again..." phase. I suspect you will do better!
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Looking good Tony, and you've inspired me to cut out my Fuz sides, start work on the doublers, cut some lightening holes in my cores and fit my nose leg retract servo.... I'd seen that Jablite premium but dismissed it as I thought it had recycled material in it. I once bought some of the standard Jablit white polystyrene and that was hopeless - the recycled bits are harder / higher melting and snag the wire, ruining the cut. Do you find the Premium cuts OK - certainly, your cores look a lot better than I would have expected!
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What is it? Glass Fibre fus
TIM Shaw replied to Alistair Taylor's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
So its 1.22m long, has a bolt on wing and a canopy access to the RC.gear. Looks a bit like a Purbeck Assassin, but I think that had a sheath nose? - edit, yep, sheath nose and a V-tail. Seems I really am getting old..... It kind of looks familiar but I can't quite place it... Could be a one-off but it looks like a very good job if it was. Was there ever a F/G version of one the Algebras? Edited By TIM Shaw on 29/05/2017 12:56:27 -
Hi Tony Ok, so maybe I was wrong about it being EPP - if I wasn't, you seem to have located some at a very good price - could you be a bit more specific about the DIY shop in question? I've cut many foam wings over the years too, from white polystyrene, blue extruded polystyrene, and EPP, but my preferred foam these days was sold by Wickes as Knauf Spaceboard, for loft insulation. No longer available in that form unfortunately, but I did manage to find the same foam (Knauf XPS) within striking distance. Snag is it comes in packs of 6 2.4m x 600mm x 65mm, and I found I can only get half such a pack into my car - and only then after cutting the sheets down in the car park. I was a little surprised they offered to split a pack for me at all, TBH, but they were very helpful. I think I spent a little over £40, but I have since cut 2 sets of Aurora 45 wings (62" span) and 3 sets of Challenger wings and tailplanes from it, and I have enough left to do at least 3 more 40 size planes as well. Never been brave enough to do a detailed build log though... I was thinking of doing foam decks too for my Aurora build, but seem to have developed something of a mental block and enthusiasm shortage... Keep up your inspiring work!
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Hi Tony Am I right in thinking your wing cores are EPP? I've always thought that the advantages EPP brings to wings (flexibility and crash resistance) would be lost if you were to balsa sheet it, so I will be interested to see how this turns out..
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Profili will only work if you know what the section is - or are otherwise able to create a .dat file for it - but it is a super tool if you do have that information.
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What is it? Glass Fibre fus
TIM Shaw replied to Alistair Taylor's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
Might be a daft question, but how big is it? - looks much more Flamingo than Phase to me -
As above, but also be aware it is quite possible to apply too much ruder - try using as little as you can get away with to just hold level flight. IF you still find it is pulling into a turn then you will need to compensate with elevator, and you might need some opposite aileron as well if its trying to roll with the rudder. When you have worked out what the model is doing then you might be able to mix this compensation in - I have a scaled down Challenger which needs 10% up elevator slaved to left rudder, and 5% up elevator slaved to right rudder to stop it pulling towards the U/C for instance, but I would strongly advise you figure out what is going on before you reach for the mixes - its very easy to over - complicate things otherwise.
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Pilot Bails Out At Low Level
TIM Shaw replied to PETER BRUCE - Eastchurch Gap's topic in The Video Channel
Sorry TWR - wrote it this morning, then got distracted by a lunch related issue - indeed, we seem to be of the same mind, and I am a great believer in the law of diminishing returns... My background is in Chemical Manufacturing, and I remember a particular Technical Director who was one for complicating everything to the nth degree - so much so his underlings used to say he was not a guy to let the facts get in the way of a good theory. -
Pilot Bails Out At Low Level
TIM Shaw replied to PETER BRUCE - Eastchurch Gap's topic in The Video Channel
In an ideal world, the basic Physics is actually very simple. Ignoring drag, an object accelerates at 9.81 m/s/s, or 32 fps/s The video timer gives us the 7 second fall time. An object falling from a height covers distance, S (when I was at school) which is equal to UT + 1/2 x a x t squared. Since you were flying straight and level, the initial vertical component (or velocity) is zero, hence the first term is also zero, so the distance covered is simply 1/2 x 9.81 x 7 x 7 Which is 240.3m, or 788 feet.. If this were the case, your camera would have hit the ground travelling at a vertical speed given by v = 0 +at, which I think is 69 m/s, or 225fps - about half the muzzle velocity of a non FAC air rifle, and I doubt it would be in the condition it appears to be.... However, in the real world, objects achieve a terminal velocity, at which point the resistance to falling due to aerodynamic effects, primarily drag, equals the accelerative force of gravity, and the object then falls at constant velocity. So the really interesting question here is just how much drag your camera has. If you really were 100 feet up, then it only achieved an average speed of about 14 fps, about a tenth of that under ideal conditions. I guess this really only goes to show how far from ideal our real world actually is.... -
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Hi Nigel You'll note I specified 45S - this is the one that used a sidewinder mounted, side exhaust 45, with a fully enclosed pipe running underneath, not quite as neat as the original, but, He Ho, not quite as difficult either. And I'm thinking my nice, new OS 55 AX on a standard muffler will be plenty powerful enough, nice and quiet, and much less bother. Also frees up the pipe tunnel for retract servos and things..... But yeah - I downloaded the plan, e-mailed it to a club mate who printed it out, we met at the field, agreed it was very pretty and he admitted he'd done himself a plan too, so I cut him the wing cores and ordered a couple of canopies, and away we went. Sort of - neither of us are really relishing the challenge and neither of us have got very far.........
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All makes perfect sense to me Nigel, although I'm happy with 1/8" birch FWs right up to piped 61s, usually in conjunction with 1/8" birch tank bay floor and a little light internal glassing. You're right about formers too - never ceases to amaze me how the older kits used so many, each an opportunity to build another bend into your fuselage....... 3 is plenty. Same issues on the Aurora drawing actually, can see that undergoing a subtle re-design and possibly some foam decks.
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Hi Nigel Beginning to sound like a scratch build would have been easier.... Had a quick look at the Outerzone plan and that fuz top looks more like 1/4" sheet to me, you could maybe build it up from strips to gain the needed internal height without impacting too much on the overall shape, and allowing for plenty shape addition / lightening by rounding the corners off. Personally, I think your firewall would be fine in 1/8" Birch ply, rather than the 1/4" you suggest, and I'd be looking to fit triangle, rather than square longerons. I think you're right about the doublers though - 1/32" birch every time. Can't see a way round the nose leg problem. I'm guessing you're going to be running something like a 10x8" APC on that 46SF? I suspect that if you fly off grass you won't be happy with tiny wheels either. This problem is a little close to home actually - I reckon to have started on an Aurora 45S (well, I've cut the wing and tail cores and mounted the motor mount to the firewall) but I find myself looking at the nose retract mount / tank bay area and not actually doing anything.... I knew there was a reason I preferred taildraggers. Sunds like fun anyway, and there really isn't much to a fuz after the work you've put into those wings. Will it be ready for the UKCAA event at Huddersfield, June 10th? Edited By TIM Shaw on 15/05/2017 13:01:36
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Posted by Trapper on 15/05/2017 10:13:14: Thank you for the replies Jonryan and Chris. I have too many DSM/2/X receivers to be able to pay any attention to 'bashers' anyway. Things have improved a lot since my first 'Wee MacGregor' transmitter with the thermionic valve inside it. Heated debate over best brands today is bit like despising a Jaguar sports car, because One prefers to drive an Aston Martin !! Beautifully put Sir!
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I'm with David. Many years ago I bought a Curare from a clubmate. He had decided that since everything looks black at a distance, he might as well paint it black...... It VERY rapidly developed big orange and yellow patches on the surfaces though. Similarly with my Erwins and Pace VXL. Love that naked carbon on the ground, but you really do need some bright colours and contrasting shapes top and bottom when you get into the air. Black also has a bad habit of showing every surface imperfection up clearly too, although, of course, you won't have any of those...... There's nothing wrong with your TE that a nice long Permagrit can't sort out.....
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Posted by Nigel R on 08/05/2017 16:08:51: "Ursa Major is very nice Nigel - not unlike the Aurora 45S" There's a "family resemblance" for sure - If I have it right, the Ursa Major is a smaller version of Cosmos, which was the immediate predecessor to Aurora. Suffice it to say Nigel I downloaded a few of the Outerzone plans to a memory stick and popped down what used to be our local staples.. I now have full size drawings for the Supra Fly 25, Mystic 30 and the Ursa Major...... I think my excess 35AX is destined for one of the latter 2.... Built to under 4Ibs I am sure they would go well - did I mention I think 4Lbs is about as much as a good 36 / 35 type motor can handle? As for adhesives, I am a fan of cyano for most woods, aliphatic for wood / foam, epoxy for firewalls, and Gorilla glue for skinning wings. But yes, I rarely have a full set of finger prints.... Hope your other problems clear up soon and you can get on with the Gangster build, keep us informed
