[Glue - Light Ply to Foam]

A lot depends upon how ‘dry’ the POR is before bringing the pieces together. If it’s touch dry then it’s an instant bond with no wiggle room, if it’s slightly tacky then it’s still a bond but you can move the parts a little bit. The real test, for me, was when I used to use Velcro to position batteries in my models. I stuck it on using POR but found that the strongest bond which kept the battery Velcro in place was formed when I let the POR completely dry before bringing together. I stopped using velcro a couple of years ago and use ‘anti-slip’ material instead.

[Charging LiPos at 4C]

I use the ones in my car 😉
 

But ever since the initial post on increasing the charge rate I now only charge to 4.17v and charge at 3C.

[Spring is here again - who's been flying?]

6 hours ago, Peter Jenkins said:

The Citrin needs a dedicated trimming session

I don’t know, what with you and Mark and your tweaking and trimming sessions 😂

[The Big Question ?]

Thanks John.

[Spring is here again - who's been flying?]

I missed out on flying today due to household commitments! Weather looked to be fine for the morning but rain edged in over lunchtime then disappeared by about 4. that completes the weather forecast for the Norfolk/Suffolk border.

[Glue - Light Ply to Foam]

IMO the main advantage of contact adhesive is that there is no, or very little, need for pinning / clamping. A few years ago I applied POR to 2 surfaces slid them together to make sure that I had an even coating them pulled them apart and promptly forgot about them for about a day! I contacted (no pun intended) someone at UHU to ask them if this would be a problem and the reply was no, but make sure that they are perfectly aligned as you won't get any wriggle room. They were right!

[The Big Question ?]

29 minutes ago, Piers Bowlan said:

Not too sure what this has to do with ‘The Big Question’ though

Quite, it really needs its own Topic - A Big Question.

[Glue - Light Ply to Foam]

If you don’t want the contact adhesion that POR gives you and you are worried about Gorilla Glue brown expanding then use Gorilla Glue clear (as Tom suggested above). It will give you the strongest joint.

[Glue - Light Ply to Foam]

52 minutes ago, Nigel Heather said:

I have some Gorilla glue to, bought for DIY rather than modelling, it is brown but not sure it is the specific one you mean.  It is quite runny and expands when it cures - is that the one you mean.

Yes, that’s the one. As Leccy says above, it will expand/foam when setting so plonk a weight on the ply to keep it in place.

[Mini Table Saw ???]

I use it regularly for balsa and ply, all thicknesses.

[Glue - Light Ply to Foam]

Out of the two I would use POR. However my first choice would be Gorilla Glue Brown.

[Mini Table Saw ???]

I’ve had my KS230 for a few years now and it is a really good machine however I wanted something a bit bigger do bought the FET about 2 years ago. That is the only one I use now!

[Warbirds Replicas FW190 - the 2023 version]

Put a couple of washers in there Brian, a lot less faff than cutting!

[The Big Question ?]

15 minutes ago, Geoff Gardiner said:

it turned out a bit heavy

 

15 minutes ago, Geoff Gardiner said:

a nasty tipstall incident

Typical of most Mossies I've seen and heard of, apart from my little cartoon one that is! Note square fuse, well square everything really yet it still looks like a Mossie.

 

[The Big Question ?]

1 hour ago, Martin Gay said:

so how about a twin Mustang

Too much building imo, having to build 2 fuselages may put off a lot of people, same with the P38, 2 booms to build. 

[The Big Question ?]

The only 'weak' point with the BF110 is the U/C so having a dolly take off / belly (nacelle) lander would get over that. I would go for one!

[I’ve had a stroke at age44 last week!]

Keep it going Matty.

[Laminating film - buying it and using it.]

2 hours ago, Robert Thompson 10 said:

Is this still the recommendation

Yes but I would go for the matt finish as it does save some work although you still need to give it the once over with fine grade sandpaper.

[The Big Question ?]

Ah, the BF110, a superb model, here is the maiden flight of mine a couple of years ago

 

Plus a couple more flights

 

 

 

[Laminating film - buying it and using it.]

I use a cheap car primer such as this and it works really well as long as I have rubbed the lam film down with a very fine sandpaper to key it. I know that others have used plastic primer (such as David has listed above) and have had success with that too.

[Laminating film - buying it and using it.]

If your masking tape is too sticky stick it on your clothes first. It will pick up dust from your clothes which will reduce the stickiness of the tape. The added bonus is that you are getting cleaner clothes at the same time.

[Warbirds Replicas FW190 - the 2023 version]

Here's another one! Clubmate Steve had never built a model before so this is his first attempt, personally I think that he did fine job. He asked me to maiden it and after adding some nose weight (he was using a 2200 mAh 4s battery) it was ready to go.

 

 

[First taste of the sky]

6 minutes ago, toto said:

I believe its part of the A test so not just some fancy " would like to have " manoeuvre or set piece.

Nope! the A test will require you to fly a reversed circuit, in other words if you have been flying clockwise circuits then you will be required to fly one anti-clockwise, in doing so you may well perform a procedure turn but not necessarily so. The only stipulation is that the initial turn to reverse the circuit must be away from the pilot's box.

[Laser engines - the state of play following their closure]

On 15/04/2024 at 18:15, Jon H said:

but they simply havent a clue what they are talking about.

Too true Jon, neither of mine, the 200 or the 310, have excessive vibration, in fact the 310 is quite smooth. I flew my 310 powered Giant Revolver again last Friday, the first time for a few months, and re-aquatinted myself with the awesome power and lovely sound. Hopefully take it out again tomorrow as I had a spare prop in the prop drawer!

[Laser engines - the state of play following their closure]

I haven’t got a clue and have heard nothing back from AGC Geoff. My one has been with them since last September. Jon has said that they will be done and that the parts have been made but how long does one wait?