Ron Gray

Taking mine out for my first flight with it tomorrow.

I didn’t want to appear rude.

I blame Paul for dragging his feet 🫢

Regarding a leccy setup, I would have thought that a decent 160 equivalent motor on 10s would be fine. I know that I would be happy using one of my Turnigy G160s to power it and the batteries could (possibly) fit up the front

I've just been double checking the measurements of the Stampe, I've fitted a 550cc tank in mine and that protrudes through the front firewall (F3) which would cause an issue for those with the plan drawn wire U/C. There is sufficient space between F3 and F7 to (squeeze) fit a SLEC 330cc (11oz) tank or, better still, 2 x 270cc (9oz) tanks would easily fit in there side by side.

I think the point is Paul that, unlike those 2 makes, Lasers weren’t designed for that type of intake and they themselves did test similar mods to yours but found that performance was affected. Can’t we just leave it there?

Fortunately, in my case, the builder of the model (not me) has fitted a much better set of landing gear which does allow easier access to that space behind the firewall. Having said that I did check and it would be possible to cut out a hatch in the fuselage bottom between the U/C wire legs and fit a tank (SLEC ‘square’ type) that way. It’s still a lot less work than making changes to an engine (Laser) that wasn’t designed for said changes.

It’s the substructure that needs to be flat and level, then any surface that can take pins, Sundeala, cork, plasterboard, balsa block (SLEC) etc.

Well this is what I’ve done

A few months ago I bought a Stampe off a fellow club member and it was fitted with a Laser 150. I’ve now re-engined it with a Laser 180 and have just about finished the easy task of lowering the fuel tank so that it rests about 10mm off the bottom of the fuselage.

Applied carefully this might do it 16 micron Doculam

OK I know it’s not IC but my BF110 had a fixed tailwheel but differential thrust with the motors mixed with the rudder, much as Steve has done. The mix has 2 controlling switches, firstly it becomes operational on the gear being operated so on gear down its active but there is also a separate switch override so that I could ‘mess around’ whilst flying. The latter wasn’t used a lot! WARNING - the following video contains images that some viewers may find disturbing.

@Christopher Wolfewell said that man, totally agree.

What a fine idea Andy.

Replacements and fillers

In that case I'm out!

Maybe that needs to be a different thread and this one kept to 'making a silk purse out of a sow's ear', in other words 'faults with the model and how to overcome them'.

Not really, I think the feeling is that all we 'want' to see, and hear about are the weak areas in these kits and remedial works you suggest. The criticism of the production company is self evident and is therefore unnecessary.

By all means draw attention to quality issues / weak points in these models and show methods by which they can be overcome but if you left out the references to the company’s management / workforce it would make a much nicer read. After all, you highlighting the bad points is, in itself, a direct criticism of the company anyway why labour the point?

About a month ago I decided that I needed a slope soarer as one of my clubs had planned a visit to the North Norfolk coast for some sloping. I haven't flown a sloper since the early 80's and no longer had any in my collection but back then I used to fly a Chris Foss Middle Phase and loved it but always wanted a Phase 5 (not Ripmax). So I went ahead and bought the plan then made a laser cut kit and built it. I made a few changes including a 4 servo wing but wherever possible kept to the Foss design. the fuselage has been glassed with 25g cloth but the fin, rudder all moving elevator and wings have been covered with laminating film. It's then been primed and painted using car paints. According to Chris the original came out weighing 2 ¾ lbs and required no nose weight, mine has a 1300 mAh 3S battery but still required nose weight and has come out at 2.65 lbs but Chris says that he tended to always fly with his ballasted to about 3 ½ lbs so shouldn't be a problem. I will probably create a YouTube vid of the build using photos as the process involved converting the paper plan into electronic media that I could use in Fusion 360. I also used techniques that, if you watched last year's ITAT sessions you will have seen, in particular how I created the rib set and also the shear web pieces! Anyway I'm now waiting for favourable wind conditions for the maiden but in the meantime here is the model

Ask the mods.

I’ve just read the article for the first time and I thought that it was a favourable review, in the concluding paragraph When you have an aeroplane that can do rolling loops and bunt for Britain you have to question whether or not it would be suitable for a novice, but I find myself thinking that it is.

Hopefully it will be recorded? We have an area meeting at the same time!

Don't forget that you can still get Clearcoat which, imo, is the best fuel proofer and can be applied to all manner of previously painted surfaces, I've used it over acrylic, Guild, graffiti paints etc without any ill effects. The only problem is that Solarfilm sales will not post it, they will package it up and make it ready for collection. You can also get flatting agents for it too so your choice of gloss, satin or matt.

Very nice Chris, you'll have to bring it to our VE Day celebrations on the 8th.