Peter Miller
-
Posts
14,590 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
18
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Calendar
Downloads
Posts posted by Peter Miller
-
-
Just the flesh, not bone. I won't send you a picture but about 3/4" square over the joint.
I have seen much much worse. -
Hi Allan. there was an article about in in a recent magazine. I think it was Wittaker in RCM&E repairing an engine.
Thanks I think I have the address somewhere. -
EGads! That sounds like Japanese engine instructions form the late 50s!
-
I used to use car spray cans, still do sometimes, the snag is that Tufcote seems to make it wrinkle. I must try Poly-C.
I remember doping and painting a model for the RAF Chamionships while trying to sell the house. Some of the prospective buyers thought it smelt like pear drops. others were not so happy.
Dope isn't a problem to get off fingers, too thin. Now Balsa cement really too some chewing off.
TIP. Acetone (Nail Varnish remover) cleans CA glue off fingers etc. I keep a large bottle to hand. Well, a small bottle, the large bottle is kept outside with the fuel. Acetone is a pret safe solvent apart from being inflammable. We used to be paddling round in the stuff at one place that I worked. -
Yes, I agree, all the accidents that I have seen have been once the engine is running at full power. Not totally convinced that the prop always pushes ones finger away at the back. A year or so ago I was adjusting a.15 from behind and took the whole top off my left forefinger knuckle.. Two stiches to seal the tiny artery and the finger took months before it would bend fully again.
My starter is built into my flight box. I hold the model and push it onto the started and use a foot switch. Everything is behind the prop. -
I must try that sometime. I like to have access to anything like that.
I taught my self to gas weld thin aluminium while on night shift many years ago. Wasted a lot of company rods. Bet I couldn't do it now without a lot more practice. -
Thanks Allan. I always try to make things as simple and as accessable as possible.
-
From very long experience and watching many people including myself incur nasty injuries, I can say that propellers in unconventional places normally result in propellers in very painful places.
I would also say that learning on a well proven design is a far wiser way to go. However I do promise you that your test flights with a stange device with masses of nose weight and heaven knows what other peculiarities will NOT be boring. Exciting, terrifying, disasterous, tragic but never boring. It won't last long enough to be boring.
Having said that., I am truly and honestly delighted to find someone willing to exeriment but I feel that experimenation would be even better once you can fly. -
You could always put it on eBay. So,me people still pay for them
-
Tony, Are you monitoring this stuff? Remember what David did to us when we were chatting back and forth? And that was about aircraft and pigs. Maybe he has gone on holiday.
-
There can't be very much in the September issue if this male bovine byproduct is the level of feedback generated.
-
If we are going to start comparing full size aircraft and models looking right when parked. For a start why are models not chocked? Then when full size aircraft are parked they don't have their wings removed and are not hung on the hangar wall. They stand on the ground with chocks under the wheels and normally a drip tray under the engine. My workshop isn't big enough to store them taht way.
I photograph my models in flight, most of them look real in the photos. On the ground they are obviously models so why worry if the pilot is still inside.
I was glad to see that the article in the September issue featured the Radio Active pilot. I think he is just about the best and so cheap. -
When you buy your Solarfilm buy Supershrink Polyester. It is much nicer than ordinary Solarfilm and you won't burn though it if you use a bit too much heat and it doesn't sag in hot weather
Dope and Tissue is a great way to finish a model but it does take longer and smells. Cellulose is not too good to inhale but at least the body gets rid of it, un like the two part paints which can accumulate in the body.
With time and patience you can get a finish like a Rolls Royce with dope and tissue. -
This is the trouble with beginner's series. They take so many months to complete that the "beginner" is an expert by the time the last one comes out. I have refused to write a beginners series for that simple reason.
A good book is a much better solution. -
In this case yes. Still, they don't lose too much value as they still run as well as they did before chopping about but they do seem to lose some compression..
-
Actually I have a very good use for MDS engines. YOu make them into cut away engines or section them so you can see all the workings as you turn them over.
-
The carbs were terrible and at one stage they were replacing the bearings on the .60 free of charge. They were Russian.
Compared some of the Russian engines that I got hold of back in the 70s MDS were high quality engines!!!!
I had a Kometa 5 cc engine, a copy of an old Super Tigre. It ran well for about three minutes nd was clapped out. I had a Rythm 2.5 diesel and got a whole mass of crud out of that, black grit, swarf.
I had one of the better quality racing engines, an ABC piston and cylinder. I know the cylinder was brass because you could see patches of it through the chrome plating.
The Meteor 2.5 glow, a copy of another Super Tigre was crude, never ran, one of the worst.
Not all of the engines of the day were bad.
The MK 17 1.5 cc diesel was/is a cracking little engine, they all run and run well and last. Great for the old Flying 15 vintage contest. -
We do actually have one MDS 40 in the club that runs and is reliable. I think it is worth about £1 million as a collectors item.
Buy an SC 40, They are on offer from Galaxy. They are very very good. I use virtually nothing else and NEVER have any trouble with them. -
I remember that Peter Russell flew Bob Palmer's Thunderbird around that time and said that he felt that flaps were not really necessary but then changed his mind obviously.
I am quoting from memory from Aeromodeller of the time and I think it was also mentioned in the Control Line Manual. -
Like David, The best is Mr Muscle Kitchen Cleaner. Even removes old, congealed castor oil.
Sorry but I doubt if it will remove burn marks after a Lipo cathes fire. -
I always remember that Clarence Lee used to say that almost all engine problems were caused by the fuel system and it is very true.
-
That rubber "O" ring should provide enough friction. You do have one fitted?
The spring ratchet is fine for the main needle.
Ah, yes, the dreaed pin hole in the fuel line. Even worse to spot is when it is inside the tank and the engine keeps stopping half way through the tank. -
Yes, It was very Focke-Wulfish except that it had an inverted engine so the cowl was a bit Chipmunkish. The wings do not have leading edge sheeting. It was very light indeed.
I could probably find an old print of mine and scan it in. -
Pete Russell was great. I loved his 334G which I built in the 70s. Recently someone suggested that I do a 1 1/2 times version for R/C but that is a bit big for my tastes.
Personally I think a 52" span "based on" version would look nice. In other words, use the same styling but with some strengthening and a detachable wing etc.
Anyone agree?
Fruitless flipping...almost
in Beginners
Posted