Martin Harris - Moderator
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Posts posted by Martin Harris - Moderator
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Phil,I can see that in the photos but it still appears warped although if it is, the struts may help to pull things into line although (on mine anyway) they aren't very strongly attached.On the subject of wing mounting plates, mine detached in flight, leading to a controlled crash (LE dropped and the elevator wasn't powerful enough to bring the nose up - luckily I managed - through more luck than judgement - to land on a downslope which minimised the damage.I bought it second hand and wasn't over impressed that the mounting "box" was simply glued to the 1/16 balsa skin of the centre section with a slight overlap of the leading edge, but when I got hold of the plans I realised this was apparently as per the design. During the repair, I extended the mounting plate downwards into the leading edge section which I feel is a much better solution.Luckily, it happened side on and I could see the wing problem whilst struggling to control the arrival. I wonder if anyone else has had this problem - or an unexplained loss of pitch control leading to a crash?
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Have you tried lifting the roundels, Phil? It may be possible - especially with gentle warming to soften the adhesive -as these are (or should be) vinyl.Although I believe you can buy Solartex hinges ready made, if you can persuade the missus, they are easily made with 2 strips of Solartex sticky face to face and a row of stitching along the middle.
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Looks like a Flair Puppeteer to me...Mine has solartex hinges (top surface) and they work perfectly.P.S. is it just the picture or is the lower starboard wing warped something rotten?
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At the risk of being boring, you won't go far wrong with the Wot4. Straightforward build, proven design and tough as old boots.Alternatively, if you can still get them as kits, the Flair Kite is even tougher and just as capable.Although both are high(ish) wing designs, they will take you a long way into basic aerobatics.
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If your Bootlace is anything like the one I test flew for a fellow member then you should be delighted with it. It's one of the sweetest handling models I've ever flown.
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Thoroughly pleasant day and the field is starting to dry out now after the snow melted at the beginning of the week - it seems like we've had more decent flying days so far this year than the whole of last year!
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...and wouldn't a retractable Mooney make a nice subject for Mr Nijhuis to model - why not pop over to the voting thread if you agree!
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No reason why you can't but if it's for scale reasons, the prop will be less efficient that the equivalent 2 blader. The more blades, the more each one is operating in disturbed air.
The reason why full size use multi bladed props is to be able to use the power from the engine while maintaining ground clearance. This is why props evolved from 2 to 3, then 4,5 or more during the war years as engines became more and more powerful.
With models, ground clearance is rarely an issue unless modelling jets with a prop driven by IC or EP (particularly when geared down). Sometimes, a 3 bladed prop can reduce noise as the tip speed will be lower compared with the equivalent 2 blader.
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As the engine is ahead of the bulkhead then a heavier engine would reduce the AUW to achieve the same C of G. Sometimes, putting a larger engine in can spoil a model by making it too heavy but in this case you need the weight anyway.Perhaps someone out there with experience of the actual Black Horse model would be better placed to make a recommendation before you spend any money and of course, it depends on whether you're looking for scale performance or just want to fly it like a sports model....and of course, you can always use the throttle if you go larger!
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First off, how does it compare with the all up weight quoted for the model?Which end have you stuck the local church roof in?Is it a 2 stroke or 4 stroke SC52?The recommended engines go up to a 91 4 stroke which seems rather excessive based on my experience of the Airsail kit which is @ 5" larger span and weighs 8 lbs dry and flies very adequately on a 52 4 stroke. Of course, the 91 4 stroke will be considerably heavier than either a 52 2 or 4 stroke which may explain the lead required assuming it's in the noisy end....
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Had quite a game getting a friend's very old one running last Saturday. Probably gummed up in the carb but eventually got it going by pulsing the exhaust pressure with a finger over the pipe as it tried to die for a minute or more until it kept itself going. Mind you, my finger was getting awfully hot at times!Got my reward a bit later when I was offered a go with this well over 20 year old piece of modelling history!
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Stinky sanding sealer? You've let me down here - I have long had a theory that one of the major differences between men and women is that real men love the smell of dope and women hate it!I'm sure you'd find Solartex and Profilm to be a revelation if you get a chance to use either. What are you planning to cover the rudder and elevators with?
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Fair enough and I doubt there's that much extra weight. The only drawback is losing the outline of the ribs but you won't notice that from more than 10 feet away.I must say that I wouldn't really call Solartex (or Profilm) flimsy materials but if your experience is with some of the lesser coverings I can understand your reluctance.
I haven't used Poly C but I assume it's water based like the Falcon acrylic varnish that I've used at various times. If so, I'd strongly recommend a coat of sanding sealer before applying the Poly C to the sheeting as you're likely to get warping and distortion if you don't. Keep the first coat as light as possible as well.
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You'd get some relevant info from http://www.macgregor.co.uk/Cat/Engines/SAT/manuals/Single_Cylinder.pdf but it doesn't cover the 45 specifically
The older 45 (without a plate saying Special) isn't particularly powerful but purrs along and will last for ever, like any Saito.
The special is a lot more powerful but still a lovely engine.
When starting, they like to be saturated with fuel - if you run pressure, get a friend to block the end of the pipe (or silencer, if fitted) to prime it while starting it from cold until it fires or make good use of the choke.You might try contacting Brian Winch through RCM&E as I believe he has extensive knowledge of Saitos - although all his engines are the wrong way up!
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Any reason why you've chosen to sheet the wings fully?
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Fancy meeting you here, Richard. I'll post this here rather than your Chipmunk thread as it is just as relevant to this one...although parts will be Chipmunk specific.
I mounted my refuelling valve about an inch in front of the air intake on the rear of the cowl LH side where there is a circular hole on the full size for access to depress the carb float while priming. It doesn't affect removal of the cowling as the valve is mounted on a small wooden structure attached to the tank box.
This doesn't extend the tubing very much at all.
It's a solution which avoids stressing the cowl as it sits just clear of the valve below and doesn't detract from the model's scale appearance in any meaningful way.
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I don't know which model this is - looks similar to some of the CMP models but the paint scheme doesn't quite match. Was this a swapmeet bargain?Anyway, take Ken's advice and I'm sure you'll enjoy the model unless the manufacturer has made a major hash of the design!
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First time I've tried adding a YouTube video and my text disappeared!I've come across this video taken on the day that I had to lock the tailwheel in order to fly in a nasty crosswind without undue embarrassment! Unfortunately it doesn't show the taxi out but you can gauge the crosswind from the turbulence encountered on the approach from buildings, tents etc. that were behind the flightline.Also, I think you'll see that the performance on a 52 FS (empty weight 8lbs) is adequate so your 70 will have bags of power in reserve.I hope the video will inspire you to even greater efforts to finish yours...it's a rewarding model to fly and viceless in its handling.
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"Very surprised at the amount of crashing going on, even by experienced members!"Everyone has a bad day from time to time but if it's a regular feature of your club, it might pay to try another one!
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There are a lot of models of Art Scholl's chippies out there...What span is yours? Fibreglass fus or wood? Retracts?
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Don't worry, David - there's no malice - just an exchange of opinions with tongues firmly in cheeks. We're all modellers after all and perfectly entitled to our opinions. I don't think Garry has taken any offence and I certainly haven'tIt amuses me that people with interests outside the mainstream seem to feel the need to justify their choices - and between you and me I know that I'm just as guilty of it as anyone else. Rather like a neighbour some years ago who would corner me for hours telling me how wonderful his Skoda (pre-VW) was...in between scratching his head and cursing loudly under the bonnet, sorting out its latest woe.Any more thoughts/info about your plug problem? I should have thought to ask what engine you're using...
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Couldn't agree more!Cheers,Martin
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I'd certainly have suspected the power panel if it hadn't been for the use of glowsticks. Are you sure you didn't connect the power panel to the last 2 plugs at some point? Otherwise it's got me stumped unless there's debris circulating in the engine.Garry - you're proving my point! I'm happy (as are many others) to put up with the perceived drawbacks in order to impart the undefinable "something extra" of operating a model aircraft with a model IC engine.Remember, it was in response to a serious enquiry about an operating problem with an IC engine from someone who's described himself as an IC enthusiast that you posted your suggestion.
I wouldn't post my ideas with a view to telling you that your choice to operate an all electric fleet is wrong - why tell us oilies that we should switch to electrics? It suits you - fine - but let's allow personal choice...
Anyway, whatever your preference, good luck with your model flying - wouldn't the world be boring if we all had exactly the same tastes!
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