EP

Yes I thought so. I don't really fancy flying in that wind without ailerons. EP

Gary, That looks seriously windy. Do you have ailerons? I don't think I have seen my Super Fly get tossed around that much. More like the wind I am used to when I go slope soaring. Impressive acceleration on takeoff through that grass. All back in one piece, ready for another day. EP

David, I was quite satisfied with how the Merco 35 ran. It starts a lot better than some other glow engines at our field (no need for an electric starter) and ticks over very nicely. I've been keeping it running rich for the first few flights, re-running it in. I haven't even adjusted the low end needle yet. That video really was the 2nd run of the engine. I was keeping plenty high waiting for a deadstick and was intentionally trying to let it run out of fuel so I knew how long the tank lasts. Of course it ran out as soon as I did a low pass. The fuel lasted about 20 minutes on the ground with the engine ticking over and 12 minutes during areal flight (6 oz tank). I'm really an electric guy. Eric

Hawke225, Great to see you flying again and converted to electric. My Super Fly is still going. In a fit of madness I cleaned up my old Merco 35 which was the original engine in the Super Fly and just for the challenge of it put the Merco 35 back in the Super Fly. I can now fly the Super Fly either electric or glow. Here is the electric version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuSpQDmbdl4 Here is the Merco 35 glow version. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6v4ahwRg7U8 In all honesty the electric version is better, the glow version is messy and more difficult to get running properly. However, it was fun cleaning up the old engine and getting it to run again. I did it in such a way that I can easily convert back to electric.

Percy, I looked up that Robbe Progo. It weighs 2.4-2.5kg. That is a similar weight to the Super Fly, maybe even a few oz more so I would expect similar performance. I bought my Super Fly when I was at school. No way I was paying 50% more. The Super Fly has survived a couple of crashes for me. It doesn't owe me anything. It got me back into power flying. I like the way it has no real vices (tip stall etc.) but you have to fly it and it requires a bit of anticipation. It flies more like a real plane, You cannot go ballistic like you can with something like a Hobbyking Tundra to get you out of trouble or take off and land in a couple of feet. The landing speed is significantly higher than current trainers but not impossible. i.e. It flies like a 5lb model. When I want to tear around the sky I use my WOT 4 foam e. 1/2 the weight and about the same power. EP

Percy, Nice thought. The problem is the Centre of Gravity. The 4.8V battery pack is providing nose weight. After removing the battery pack I would have to replace it with nose weight to get the COG back to where it should be. True I might be able to get the weight a little further forward but I would not gain anything like the 4 oz of the battery pack. I have thought about it but in order to really gain I would have to replace the tailplane with a lighter built up tailplane to truly get an advantage. No matter how much I tweak, it will not match the weight of the wot4 foam e! EP

Hawke225, I also noticed from your picture that you have the rudder only version. I have the aileron version. I have uploaded another video to youtube. This is a video taken from a camera mounted on the SuperFly. You do not see much of the Superfly!!! **LINK** I now have a second power model which should keep Percy happy. It is a WOT4 foam e . They are different beasts. No trouble moving from the Superfly to the WOT4. I'm still planning on taking my Bronze certificate with the Superfly though (sentimental reasons). Bronze is the Scottish equivalent to BMFA A certificate. E.P. .

Hawke225, Good progress on your model. Looks like you are going electric. I've included some pictures of my installation below. I have a 4.8V AA battery pack hidden in the foam above the LIPO. The speed controller is mounted on the RHS. There is a hole in the fuselage on the bottom at the RHS for ventilation. The LIPO is mounted to a plywood plate using Velcro and in addition secured by a Velcro strap. My Velcro strap is too far forward and difficult to access. Do not make that mistake. I have to remove the wings to connect/disconnect the LIPO. To insert the LIPO I use a plastic strip placed on top of the Velcro, slide the LIPO in, then remove the plastic strip. EP

Motor is NTM Prop Drive 35-36A 800KV from Hobbyking. Speed controller is Hobbyking 60A ESC 4A UBEC (lots of safety margin). I don't use the UBEC part. Prop is APC 10x6E. Battery is 2450 4S 30C. Setup runs at about 25A. Motor and ESC is capable of producing a lot more power but is limited by the size of the prop which in turn is limited by ground clearance. I did change the wheels to 80mm and could go up to an 11 inch prop but have not tried that yet. In hindsight I would probably have been better off with a bit higher KV. Eric

Enough talk. Here is one flying. I built it when I was a teenager and flew it only twice. It sat in the attic for 40 years. Last year I pulled it out of the attic, converted it to electric and started flying again. Do not ask me how it compares to other power models since this is the only power model I have flown. I normally fly slope soarers. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MuSpQDmbdl4