Shaun Walsh
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Posts posted by Shaun Walsh
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24 minutes ago, Jonathan M said:
Shaun, out of interest what flying times do you get on the 3000mAh, and what brand are you using? I time flights down to 35-40% capacity as I prefer to buy good quality lipos and don't like to thrash them so they last. (Case in point: the new Radient Supera 3s 3000 lipos I wasted money on gave NO flight time advantage over my existing set of 4-Max 2200mAh ones!)
For me a bit of extra momentum is good. I prefer a slightly heavier loading to cope with blustery conditions and to close the gap with trad built-up models in terms of mass, energy-retention etc. My local mown patch is short, so I'm using the Riot to practice side-slipping to slow when coming in in light conditions. I also find that low throttle with the 12x6 helps slow things rather than a full cut.
I use Hobbyking's Rhino batteries in the Riot. Get around 6 or 7 minutes but I do fly it hard.
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9 hours ago, Jonathan M said:
The Riot was my own recent choice for an all-round hack to practice aeros myself and to help train intermediate students. It's slightly bigger and heavier than the foam Wot choices, which is a good thing in my opinion, except that flight times on a standard 3s 2200mAh would be correspondingly shorter, especially if one was to throw it about. Upgraded (as described below) I get 6-7mins running B Cert type aeros and 9-10mins on student training flights. Could fit up to 3000mAh in the available space but some of the gain in capacity would be lost in carrying the extra weight, etc.
The Riot's stock powertrain is however a bit weedy, so I replaced mine with the 4-Max recommended equivalent which is superb (power output in watts jumped by 25-30% without seeming to suck any more capacity from the lipos), but by the time one has done this and upgraded to a 50A ESC for safety (the 12x6 was pushing towards 40A in static tests), and fitted Dubro axles to replace the plasticine ones, etc, it begins to break the £300 mark, so half as much again as the stock £200 price.
One good thing however is that the Riot's airframe is tough... I know this because I first learnt on one eleven years ago and it got some real abuse! 🤣
I'll second the comment about the robustness of the Riot, mine went through 2 trees during the learning process. I've made the same mods, motor and esc and it will climb vertically. Bottom of battery tray removed and you can fit a flat 3s 3000mAh battery. Also the battery retention is better, I've seen the batteries drop out of 2 wot4s in flight, not easy flying with a big pendulum under the plane.
Where the wot4 wins is on low speed flying. The wot4 slows down much better when the throttle is cut, the Riot seems to have more momentum and a gentle headwind helps with the landing.
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23 hours ago, David Davis said:
An E-Flite Apprentice or an ST Models Discovery.
I'd second the Apprentice, bought one to teach new members and it's very nice to fly as a beginner, a bit boring for the instructor though!
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It's a reputable brand, it should be fine left at storage charge until next season. Suggest that you stick a label on it with date of purchase and %charge or individual cell voltage so you can check it occasionally. I usually measure the internal resistance of each cell and record it too so you can monitor deterioration over time.
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23 minutes ago, Shaun Walsh said:
When it's in the air you won't see the difference.
If you want it weathered fly it lots!For a truly authentic look set fire to two motors, make some holes in the wings and fuselage and disable one main undercarriage leg.
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58 minutes ago, toto said:
What type of paints are suitable for EPO models.
I have a Flightline B24 Liberator which is high on detail, panel lines etc and is crying out to be weathered down to get rid of the unrealistically pristine condition. I would imagine these things would have been filthy.
I have used paint washes and powders on model locomotives and wagons before but of course they are plastic or brass. So what type of paints are safe to use on EPO ?
Like wise with matt varnishes. I was thinking of an overall coat of matt varnish on the main areas to dull things down and then when dried, a light wash over with water with a drip of washing up liquid applied to act as a means of aiding the paint washes through the panel line indents. Same approach I used to my loco's and also plaster cast buildings. The water mix pulls the paint through all the cracks etc.
I'm not about to do this right now but just out to find out what others have used safely without damaging the foam.
Any suggestions welcome as well as any particular links to appropriate products.
Cheers
Toto
When it's in the air you won't see the difference.
If you want it weathered fly it lots!-
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14 hours ago, Futura57 said:
Interesting. I bought 4 of the same batteries about 6 months ago in a sale. They were showing a storage charge voltage, so I stored them away. For various reasons I never go to use them until last week. When I put the battery checker on them all 4 were reading 1%. 🥴 A bit late to return them! I put them on storage charge again and need to recheck. I've still not used them in anger yet. My own stupid fault.
Not too late, I bought mine in the sale in January too. Don't need to return them as no courier will take a faulty lithium battery.
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Ordered some 3s 2200 turnigy batteries from Hobbyking in January, they haven't been used yet but on receipt I charged them up to storage charge as they were reserve batteries for a number of models. Have been checking them on a regular basis and found that one was self discharging from 40% to 14% over a couple of weeks.
Contacted Hobbyking half expecting them to refuse a refund but no, 48 hours later store credit for the cost of the battery, no complaints here, in fact I ordered some more batteries in their sale!
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18 minutes ago, TH said:
Hi, I’m attempting the 72” Mosquito by Tony Nijhuis and thought I would try using thin CA. Nothing unusual in that I hear you say, true but I’ve mainly used Aliphatic resin up ‘til now. So will CA be enough on its own or should I go over the joints again with the Aliphatic for greater strength? Thanks, any advice will be appreciated
My rule of thumb is:
Aliphatic for wood to wood where slow cure is desirable.
Superphatic if you want a thin adhesive that will wick into a tight joint or to bond wood and carbon fibre.
CA for a fast joint with tight clearances.
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2 hours ago, Basil said:
I have had a lemon rx with stabilization for some time and been playing with it for a little while. I cant find an entry for 'Setting up' in the instructions only resetting. For setting up I refer to the RX being fitted in the plane at the correct attitude ready for flight.
I have followed the procedure of switch toggling but cant get the green light to flash the reported four times.
Does anybody have experience of these lemon/stabs' that can advise me.
Thank you in advance .
Bas
l
Is this any use?
https://lemon-rx.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=4
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44 minutes ago, Tosh McCaber said:
Shaun, Many thanks for all that- I'll look into them all! I'm just looking over at my invisible-6.5lb AM on the bench, thinking how much it'll weigh when I stuff battery and electronics in!
One other thing- should I use a UBEC?
In terms of weight, add about 1Kg to the airframe weight (or more if you choose a bigger battery), plus whatever lead is required to adjust the CoG. If it will fit, I would rather have a bigger, heavier battery than add lead to get the CoG right.
Regarding the use of a stand alone UBEC, that's down to personal choice. I usually rely on the ESC's built in BEC and choose an ESC with a BEC capable of delivering a good current to minimise the chance of brown out. The ESC I linked to can deliver 8A continuous, 20A burst which should be ample. -
15 hours ago, Tosh McCaber said:
I'm rebuilding my old Aeromaster biplane- electric this time. 1.2mm wingspan- +- 6.5lb. Original powered with an HP61 I know about- but- I'm consistently bamboozled with the ins and outs of electric components!
I have so far been recommended to use a 5055-500kv or perhaps 5065-360kv motor, with a 6S LiPo. Can anyone guide me on their favourite brand(s) and sizes of motor, and ESC/UBEC to fit?
Any suggestions/ comments appreciated!
And if you can build it with a 1.2mm wing span weighing minus 6.5lbs, we would all like to see a build log please!😁
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A 4Ah 6s or larger battery should give acceptable flight times.
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And don't forget that you will need a watt meter to check the current draw to optimise the prop size.
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Assuming the HP61 provides about 1.3hp, 1000w and you will be using a 6s battery then you need a motor/esc capable of handling approx 45 to 50 Amps at full throttle.
I have installed this esc in a Brugger Colibri with a motor pulling 58A at WOT.
Regarding a motor, I like 4-Max motors, reasonably priced, well made and spare bearings and shafts available. Something like this would be appropriate.
https://www.4-max.co.uk/po-5055-500.html
You may want a higher kv motor if you want to run a smaller prop, see the 4-max website for options.
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8 minutes ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:
Shame that my models don’t maintain the same orientation throughout a flight!
Perhaps the next gimmick will be a gyro/accelerometer/GPS controlled aerial mounting to maintain optimal orientation? (All rights reserved!)Easier to have a receiver and two satellites, 6 aerials covering all axes in opposing directions.
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"A fist full of lipos"
A little known film by Clint Eastwood.
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One horizontal one vertical ideally outside the fuselage but not essential, just keep them away from carbon fibre parts.
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1 hour ago, kevin b said:
Fossilized pizza from the late crustaceous period.
Thin crustaceous or stuffed crustaceous?
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49 minutes ago, kevin b said:
Fossilized pizza from the late crustaceous period.
Must be a pebbleroni pizza.
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5 minutes ago, GrumpyGnome said:
Or:
a) make new drivers retake their test after a few years
b) restrict the sales of powerful vehicles to those that are likely to be safer - like motorcycles sort of do
c) make drivers of SUVs used mainly for the school run take a special test on respect for other drivers and property
d) make taxi drivera take a test every year, and provide dna so it can be proven it is them taking the test
d) restrict the performance of 'white vans'
e) restrict the performance of all new vehicles - top spews and acceleration
There are loads of demographic segments to be picked on....
And who would pay?
I think that "top spews" will only apply to fast and very erratic drivers when they have just had a mackerel vindaloo.
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I usually buy cars that are 3 or 4 years old so have yet to experience the more recent developments in driving "aids", however when faced with a choice of two different specs of the same car when we last changed a car I opted for the one with the fewest driver aids on the basis that there was a lot less to go wrong. However I do appreciate the inclusion of Android Auto as it means I can just plug the phone into the car and and stick it in a convenient cubby hole. My wife has an earlier version of the same car which comes with auto wipers (reasonably useful as they vary the speed depending upon how heavily it rains) and auto lights which I detest, fortunately you can turn them off. I am quite capable of determining when I need lights on. There is a junction near my house which is very close to a railway bridge and on 3 occasions the vehicle going under the railway bridge has turned its lights on and the driver of the vehicle turning out of the junction has assumed that the other driver has flashed to let him out nearly causing an accident. And yes I do know that you shouldn't interpret a flash of the headlamps as anything other than a warning of approach.
My 53 year old VW has no driver aids whatsoever, even the indicators assume that the driver knows which way they want to turn so what's the point having lights inside the car that flash in the same direction as the ones outside, a single light will suffice that just shows that the indicators are in use.
It does, however, have a safety feature that stops you driving into the back of other vehicles........ 8 gallons of petrol stored just above your feet! -
46 minutes ago, Diamond Geezer said:
Hi folks
im returning an old extra 300. thing is I have aurora 9 tx which I’m trying to set up with the rx I have 2 servos for the elevator normal practice for me is aileron in 1 elevator in 2 throttle in 3 rudder in 4 so where does my othe elevator servo plug into tx don’t give me the option for 2 elevator servos.
Use a Y lead to plug both servos into the elevator channel?
Spoilers; Help requested (T31M)
in Beginners
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https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=105_1991&srsltid=AfmBOopD8z4_XWUxbV-3yr92ORdKbPRfRJKv0wUZpMY_tf2xrzo4dgkh