Dad_flyer
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I have had a lot of use out of the FliteTest Simple Storch, built from the kit. It was the biggest model they did last year when I needed it. However as a representation of a Storch it has enormous and vulnerable tail surfaces. With many an unhappy landings the elevators don't really act as one. The Legacy has since come out, very loosely based on the Telemaster apparently. It is basically the same size as the Storch, but It has foam doubled up throughout the fuselage and a much more sturdy tail, with a ply elevator joiner. FliteTest Legacy details. The weight is also more, which with the lift that the Storch wing has will be no bad thing. The first decision was not to use the FliteTest foam. Partly because I would have to get it by post, but also because Westfoam board from Hobbycraft seems stiffer. It is heavier, but again, that may not be bad. Buying by the four sheets it is about the same price as FliteTest. Two important issues are that it is not waterproof, and that the paper does not peel off easily to allow curving the board. So away I went.
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Full-Size Lancaster at Woodsprings today
Dad_flyer replied to Cliff 1959's topic in The Video Channel
Child_flyer has spent all evening on the simulator. Suddenly he can do knife edge, inverted and something like a stall turn. Then he practiced the A test manoeuvres. I shall never catch up now. -
Full-Size Lancaster at Woodsprings today
Dad_flyer replied to Cliff 1959's topic in The Video Channel
I stayed for both days with Child_flyer. The Lancaster visits were fabulous, nicely complemented by the formation flying of the two large scale models. Really gave the sense of what it might be like if there was not just the one full-size left in the UK. The 60% cubs display was my highlight of the sport flying. Each acrobatic element was not showy, but they flew so beautifully together. 3D slots gave us time to go for tea and visit the stands. -
Tony's website has the plans and the build articles.
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In my experience of still being a beginner, vintage style models like the Super 60 are the way to go. They are designed to fly on early radio equipment, three channel, some actually for single channel, then modified to 2, 3, 4 channel. This means that they had to be pretty stable on their own, which corresponds to giving plenty of time for a beginner to think. Build it yourself is fun, if you have time to complete it before really really really wanting to fly. Everyone says you will crash, if you built it you can mend it. There will be good advice if you post your progress and questions on this forum.
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Prop selection for glow to electric conversion
Dad_flyer replied to Alan Davidson 1's topic in Propeller Selection
My reading of the spec was 10x6 on 2s, rather than 3s, and 27A sounds likely, and 32A for 11x6, also on 2s. This will be about 10,000rpm. On 3s, the motor will be trying to turn at 15,000 rpm. That takes a lot of power and therefore draws a lot of current. For 3lbs, the 2s specs will fly, but not 3D. You have three options from here, all of which should end up at about 200W: Keep the same motor and 3s, and use a smaller prop, probably 8x4 Keep the motor and prop, and run on 2s. Keep the 3s and prop, and use a 900kv motor. I use that for a cartoon scale Storch at about 3lbs with an 11x4.5 prop Edited By Dad_flyer on 29/06/2019 21:12:17 -
Prop selection for glow to electric conversion
Dad_flyer replied to Alan Davidson 1's topic in Propeller Selection
That would make sense. The specs are for a 10x6 on 2S (7.4V), giving 1kg thrust. That is about right for 25-30A. -
Prop selection for glow to electric conversion
Dad_flyer replied to Alan Davidson 1's topic in Propeller Selection
It sounds as though the motor is trying to spin the prop very quickly. What kv rating is the motor, and how many cells are you using? -
I have not done the minis, but for the larger swappables I am using motors from the Airmax range at Airtek Hobbies. Each motor gives full dimensions of the motor and mounting, so you can check if it will fit. For that small model you probably want the smallest size, which is 30g weight, same as the pack F motor. The kv is less, but you can use a slightly bigger prop if necessary.
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After being my no-buddy-box trainer, and some hanger accidents, Mayfly is a little worse for wear. Wing dents / splits and both tip plates broken. As well as that the control linkages are very sloppy, being my first attempt at anything like that. Also the horizontal stabilizer has twisted. So it is time to use the poor weather for a refurb. I have removed the vertical stabilizer and wetted the horizontal stab with ammonia water. Now it is weighted flat and drying. If it comes out ok, good. Otherwise I shall make a new one. After success with tissue and dope over sheet balsa on another build, I shall cover Mayfly that way as well. It should give a harder finish and might reduce splitting along the grain. Finally I shall put in ball links (the rudder is slanted) and snakes to make the control more positive. We shall see if it all works.
