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Dad_flyer last won the day on January 27 2022

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  1. I was looking to build a sensor like this a couple of years ago. I even found an Arduino library for FlySky telemetry instead of Frsky and got that bit working. However the current sensors were out of stock everywhere because of the general chip shortage problems. I have been checking on-and-off since, and finally stock is coming back for all of the useful variants! At least at RS and Farnell, not in the smaller places.
  2. I started up needing two of everything, one each for me and for Child_flyer, so the FS-i6X was an obvious way to go. Also I fly electric, and the battery voltage telemetry is really useful. The telemetry receivers are cheap too. The two FS-i6X I have were from Amazon, and they are different - one screen is polarized so that it can be seen with sunglasses the right way up, the other is only visible sideways on if wearing polarized sunglasses. The gimbals on one of them have been troublesome as well. I have not had any radio issue with either, but I am not sure that I trust them to be genuine. Once I discovered that Flying Tech stock Flysky Tx and RX I have only had things from them, (including replacement gimbals). The main limiting factor are the restricted number of mixes (3) and no logic capabilities, if you are doing anything more complicated than a V-tail or two aileron servos. For small models the standard receivers are pretty light anyway, but there are very small and light versions, as included in FlySky FS-i6X 10CH Transmitter & FS-X6B 2.4GHz iBUS Receiver | Flying Tech.
  3. Have you installed the slicer program for your printer? It is very informative to put your 3D model through the slicing process and look at how it will be built. You will see where the layers go, and it will show the weight of filament used. Making a 3D printed object thinner does not reduce the weight that much because the middle is not solid, you probably use 10-15% infill. The weight is in the skin where default settings might have 2-4 layers of filament on the outside and more on top an bottom surfaces, to give the best surface finish. You can change the settings for fewer layers, which can save a lot of weight on some structures.
  4. I have a vintage model with a very speed dependent elevator trim requirement. I have it trimmed out at a 'normal' speed, and then I use a slider for something like 3% elevator mix to allow an easy and temporary trim change if I feel like going faster or slower on any particular flight.
  5. A web search gave this: https://www.key.aero/forum/historic-aviation/72650-cleethorpes-beach-flights Yes it says Cleethorpes, but also the fourth post says "1958 The aircraft regularly carried out joy flights from Clacton Airstrip and Yarmouth." as G-AMSZ
  6. I have the Bosch one. I find the long thin nozzle very helpful. It can deliver a lot of glue nice and hot for long glue lines on big wings. Sometimes it can be a bit too hot if it has had a rest, and melts the foam back more than I would like.
  7. I got an electric bike (Scott/Bosch) 10 years ago for getting to work up a steep hill. I have not used my car for the journey more than a handful of times since. After some intermittent problems with the motor a few years ago I started using my ordinary bike while getting the electric sorted. I would not have done that before, but the regular habit of getting the bike out and going up the hill was ingrained by then. It takes a little longer than electric, that is all. It took ages to work out the issue with the electric - water in the circuit board under a connector - and I have actually not used it again. I have saved a lot of time over the years as well compared to driving.
  8. As said above, any extra hour in the evening is not much use as it is still not light long enough to do anything after work/study. With 'normal time' in winter early risers can get something energetic in before work for most of the winter. (Yes I used to be young and fit, and in the south) You get some beautiful mornings as well as the dank ones.
  9. The milk bottle is more appropriate for a Bristol Blenheim mk IV surely?
  10. I am afraid I disagree with your disagreement 😉. Volts alone means nothing, but you do not have volts alone, you also know your throttle position and the flight profile so far. A volt alarm comes on when the volts are low, but goes off if the voltage recovers. Certainly measure before and after flight, but as you get to know your models, the volt alarm is very handy extra information. The alternative is a time alarm that means even less. Measuring capacity used needs a current monitor, and a capable tx, which is an extra step in equipment. It also assumes that the battery still has the capacity that you think it had and has not got old. I also fly my Stik on 2200 as well as 3000 batteries, and others on 1300/1000/2000.
  11. As Frank says, the voltage will drop at full throttle. I have lipo voltage telemetry and with different models it takes a little experience of flying and looking at in flight and post flight voltages to get a good balance. It is usually nearer 3.3V per cell warning to have 3.8V per cell after landing. The alarm will go off early in the flight when I near the top of a large loop, but I can ignore that and know from experience that it is when the alarm goes off with a less stressful manoeuvre that I need to land. While working it out you can cut the throttle briefly in flight and check the no-load voltage on the Tx, then see what it does at different throttle.
  12. I had Clearview, it is OK. Realflight is about twice the price, but wayyy more than twice as good. In either I have never been able to get lined up to land properly. I find depth and height are much harder than in real life. Other aspects of flying the SIM is useful for me.
  13. I would say if you want to build, then build. But find something easy and quick, and sheeted. I built Mayfly very early on in my flying. Probably not the best way to learn a lot from a good instructor as it is very stable, but still a lot of fun. I found it much easier to put back together than foam models - everything is flat and straight so you know where the pieces go. the plan is on Outerzone https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=6231
  14. The capacitors will have a voltage on, that is usually not much above 4.2V/cell on the maximum cells allowed. The cable size is usually marked on the cable. Look at your other ESCs for the cable size and max amps. That might get you some idea of the ballpark for this ESC. I have no idea what it actually is...
  15. I started not so long ago. My flying buddy/instructor had Multiplex, but also a FlySky. I went for FlySky, partly as I need two of everything with Child_flyer. Also for battery voltage telemetry the receivers are very cheap. I have now upgraded to Radiomaster TX16s, which can use all my FlySky receivers. The experience with FlySky has been mostly good, although I think one of the transmitters is not quite right. I got them from Amazon, which is not great for knowing the actual source. I have since found that FlyingTech have all the FlySky things in the UK at sensible prices. The TX16s is very much nicer and still not hugely expensive. I have managed to break switch levers on both FlySky when they fell in the car on different occasions. The TX16s case and zipped cover are very reassuring.
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