Dad_flyer
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Everything posted by Dad_flyer
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Re lipo postage: backinblack shows what I have seen when looking, no lipo allowed - for individuals via the post office. However patmc gives 'account customer' rules which say yes. So whether you can send lipo depends whether you send enough for an account, which is probably enough for direct collection from the sender.
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My last foam board build before the balsa journey
Dad_flyer replied to Bob Smitham's topic in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
Thanks for the tips. I maidened a FT Simple Storch at the weekend, nice to fly, but I had left it plain brown and it is no so easy to see! -
My last foam board build before the balsa journey
Dad_flyer replied to Bob Smitham's topic in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
Does the spray paint stick directly to the foamboard, or do you need to do some prep first? -
I have not found any other flying notes on forums for electric or ic builds. The photos in the build article have the OS10 fitting nicely. I looked it up to gauge the power and balance point for my electric setup. It comes out at about the same weight I think. The power, 0.27hp, seems a lot for a 24oz WW1 biplane when compared to electric watts/pound. But I do not have ic experience.
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This has been a lovely model for getting up without a buddy and getting stick time. Child_flyer is confident on it too, take-off to landing. Mostly flying 1000mAh 2s now, with long flights. It balloons quite a lot into a headwind or on high throttle, which is really what limits how much wind it is comfortable to fly in before the elevator control becomes trying. A bit over 10mph forecast wind is ok, which is the least we had throughout the autumn. Lovely and calm out today, the first of the calm days I have been able to get out over the break. I must have been lying on my side... Edited By Dad_flyer on 05/01/2019 17:54:07
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Time to make the covering decision: TN used Easycoat in the RCM&E build article, but says it is a bit heavy at the tail. Suggests Litespan, or tissue and dope. I have access to all three. Easycoat: Tough, but heavier. Also I need to work out how to paint it for most parts. For the wing underside it needs to be white, and it is an open structure, so the strength will be useful. Litespan: Lighter, and my LMS has it on the web site. Local is 1hr drive... Tissue: lightest, easiest to paint. Is the strength needed on the solid fuselage and tail? Any suggestions?
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My phone also does not show the icon normally. I am using Chrome, and in the menu ( top right, three dots) there is a 'desktop site' option. This then gives me the camera icon.
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Wings nearly done. They are very small, only 27" span in total and the solid block tips are 2" each side. With the ribs and strut sockets all done, next is to put the 1/8" sheet over the top, whilst the frame is still pinned square on the board. How do you get it off afterwards with the pins now covered? My board is also not that flat, so I wanted to use some flat glass. My first solution was to tape the plan to the glass and tape bits of scrap to push/hold the frame in the right place, and some tape over the spar. This worked OK but s bit of a faff to set up. Finally I shall need to trim the bottom left corner of the sheet. You can see here that even with 4" sheet plus 1 1/4" the ribs are still slightly longer than the sheet. My second method is quicker, stick the frame to the plan with glue stick. I use that to hold the plan to balsa when cutting out pieces. It holds well enough and I can release the whole paper from the glass, then peel it from the frame. I used thick cysno to hold the leading edge quickly, then superphatic to give more time to curve the sheet over. It also runs well along the ribs to get in under the sheet.
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Slow progress. Cut out the tail parts and joined the sheet for the wing top sheet. The build log says 4" sheet needs 25mm added (nice mixed units 😃. Measuring the plan it is more like 1 1/4", which is a third of a 4" sheet. The little slots to fit the spars took an age to make. I think I need a Permagrit slotter... 12 to make, 6 left hand, six right hand. Then also need to put them in the right place. I'm not sure I like making biplanes, and I have not even got to the point of fitting the wings and struts. I made all the ribs the same and cut back the short ones over the plan.
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I'm following the order of the build article. This is my second balsa build, so still feeling my way! For power, it was designed for a permax 400 motor with gearbox. From what I can find a 400 weighs 70g and is specified at 7A at 7.2V. However in this and other plans they are run at 9.6V. I can't find any mention of the current draw then.
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Wings today. Not very picturesque so no photo.
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In the RCM&E build article TN poses is this 'sad' or worth it? Child_nonflier likes it, so I think it is worth it, even though it means the model still has no wings.
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Looking at photos I seem to have a choice of brown or green. Chosen green, so now there are 30+ little bits of ply to paint. I'm not putting off clearing space to do the wings, honest.
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Thank you STF.
