Dad_flyer
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Posts posted by Dad_flyer
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I did similar for a two-prop boat with no rudder.
You will need two brushed ESCs, with reverse. They can be a pain as they are usually designed for cars and have a reverse lock where you need to make the transition from 'mid' to reverse twice. Then a good transmitter should be able to deal with the mixes. If I remember correctly, my very simple transmitter had not got enough mixes and I put in an Arduino Nano between the receiver and ESCs to deal with the mixing.
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Yes. I would suggest doing the cutting of one of the +ve in the y-lead so that your ESC is ok to be used on its own later if you want to.
It is possible to connect both ESCs for redundancy if you use diodes, but you need the right type. Someone posted it on a thread with 4 ESCs, possibly EDF?
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There do seem to be people getting it to work, and not needing the sensor hub. Helpfully there is a full datasheet for the protocol. https://www.spektrumrc.com/ProdInfo/Files/SPM_Telemetry_Developers_Specs.pdf .
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Judging by the number of ads posted today, it is a big success with sellers.
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1 hour ago, RottenRow said:1 hour ago, RottenRow said:
It would be good to still have the location (county) on the thumbnails page as it is an easy way of skipping past larger (non-postable) sale items that are at the other end of the country.
That would be a real help. It was always the first thing I looked for on the old site as I am not usually after small items.
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Or a sheet of A1 foamboard folded into a bigger chuckie paper dart.
Great fun!
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Or a plan from the twenties. We can practice building light and using either issue or laminating film on something that can be quite a quick build. I am sure someone could also do RC recommendations, and others will do a scale up. Outerzone gives a number of options.
I have not finished my RCM&E 60th anniversary kakadu yet...
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Micron radio control used to have very small FlySky receivers, some with built-in ESC. It looks as though they may not do them when they come back after the current shutdown. Standard FlySky from Flying Tech in the UK.
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The price of a good quality, glossy magazine that caters to the needs of the users of this forum is £44 per year for print-only subscription. I don't think I want half my subs spent on the BMFA magazine.
On top of that, the RCM&E version of the hobby is only one aspect of what the BMFA covers. I value what BMFA does as a governing body, I don't expect the magazine to be all that interesting, but I do expect it to cover some of the administrative (boring but necessary) stuff and have news from across the hobby.
A couple of other sport associations I have belonged to updated their magazine offerings and they became even less use by trying to be 'interesting'.
As members of any voluntary organisation, I also think that we should remember that there is not really a living breathing entity "the association". Actual people, almost all volunteers, are doing or not doing what we complain about. We too could volunteer, help, and then build the BMFA as what we really want. If I have not got time or inclination to do any more for the BMFA than skim through the magazine, I am profoundly thankful to those that toil away making this all work.
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On 20/01/2022 at 09:47, EarlyBird said:
For 12" between the sticks I use 8".
Flying two models with bands today. 12" chord Ugly Stik, 8" bands. Then the same 8" bands on Double Diamond which is about 15" chord and then the sticks are nearly 4" below the wing. Because 8" are the biggest I have and DD is tough.
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Tenma 72-2985 is the one I have, I think.
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Band length I find is 'shorter than you think'. As @John Lee says, you don't want the leading edge lifting in flight, so they need to be tight. 1 degree incidence change is not much band stretch, but quite a difference in aerodynamics. I keep bands in a metal tin out of the light, used ones still need frequent replacement.
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Ah. The brief says a sheet of foam board, which made me think foamboard not a big board of thick foam.
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@IDD15I have not done PSS, but I have done power models from foam board. For only one sheet it feels as though it is going to be small or a flying wing. Horten?
Flitetest Spitfire simple build is about one and a half sheets. Might be possible to do it in one sheet, especially if you used the allowed balsa sheet for the tail.
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Even without trying to reproduce a colour picture, lighting can make a huge difference in brown/green. I happen to like olive green trousers. Several times I have had to take them back as there is a version of the colour that is clearly nicely green indoors and is clearly an uninteresting mud in daylight.
My scale (very sport-scale) is definitely wrong: it is in the current markings seen on the Shuttleworth example. We can go and see that, and it is currently brown. Mine is green because I prefer them looking green.
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Is the 1/16th core propped up to the mid height with something underneath?
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There are a couple of Falcon threads. This one has some discussion of motor sizes people have used.
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That should be a feature of ESCs for electric: set throttle failsafe at below zero, and then the ESC responds to this out of range signal by giving a continuous beeping, using what it does at startup.
Or we leccy fliers should always fit lost model alarms. Make it scream as it comes down.
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If you slot the spar in, does the leading edge come out straight? It could be the aileron end that is too long, not slot position.
In the photo the spar looks bent, but that is probably just my eyes.
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Child_flyer is taking over my small amount of model railway. It turns out that SWMBO's brother had exactly the same trackside buildings as I had.
It also seems that sellotape does not hold windows in well after a few decades. Fortunately I now know about canopy glue ?.
Dark nights fix-up part one starts
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19 hours ago, David Dixon 2 said:
Another thought, the club I am joining has a grass airstrip, I have always flown from concrete runways, do I need any mods to the under carriage like larger diameter wheels?
Both my clubs are grass strip, one gets pretty long when the council forgets to cut it.
Something the size of the Boomerang (with 2 1/2"-ish wheels?) will not mind. A 1lb model with 2" wheels just gets a hand launch instead when the grass gets a bit long.
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Sussex Model Centre have similar usually.
Something like https://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/airwheel-nylon-hub-73mm-3-0-pk2
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The main thing to look out for is to keep lead and lead free solder apart. If you want to re-work a joint you need the same solder type, and I keep separate solder bits. Each system works fine, but when mixed I find it does not flow and looks dirty even with lots of heat and flux.
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The SLEC ones are reasonably light for an airwheel. Much nicer than a foam wheel, I have not compared weights directly but they are not heavy.
https://www.slecuk.com/wheels/wheel-with-grey-hub
Similar available from other model shops.
Tracked Vehicle Control
in Gadgets and Electronics
Posted
You are right, I did not use car ESCs but DC motor H-bridge drivers. Which is why I would have needed the Arduino to translate the receiver PWM to talk to the motor driver. My mind is sieve. It means that the motor voltage is anything you like, but you will need to supply the 5V for the receiver and 3V for the motors.