John Lee

Whereas the 51inch Skybolt designed by Claude McCullough and kitted by Sig was a brilliant flying model. There is a plan, instructions & a review of this on Outerzone which the OP might want to study for CG & set up ideas.

I've got a Robart Incidence meter but I find using a cross line laser easier nowadays. Otherwise any modern Smart phone can be used as an incidence meter. You just use an appropriate app and a simple jig or double sided tape to hold the phone in place.

Have you done the level calibration? Section 7.3 of the manual.

Should't be. I'd start with a clean memory and a simple default set-up to check. If it still does it there then sounds like a fault. If it works OK then there must be some mixing or restrictions in you existing models.

No it doesn't, in fact it is remarkably quiet even for an electric model. Times have changed, as another current thread about the loss of flying sites vividly illustrate, and we must move with it. My last one had a HB61 with the open front venturi exhaust. We would lose our flying site in very short order if I still flew the likes of that.

Successful maiden plus two further trouble free flights this morning of my Kwik Fly Mk3. I bought the Seagull kit at Weston Park, it has a Hacker Motor & ESC running 6S, Jeti radio, JR servos and it flies just like a Kwik Fly should! It's my 4th full size, the earlier 3 were all IC & were sold on, I've also had a Flea Fly & an even smaller Mini version.

I have a Delta one purchased many moons ago, I think from Maplins (that dates it!). Like Paul's Lidl one, utterly useless. I tried all the recommendations but a 10p toothbrush gave better results. It's laid in its box in the shed ever since. Image from eBay (not mine)

I use self adhesive magnets but glue them in place with an appropriate adhesive for the material it is to be attached to. The glue combines with the self adhesive giving a secure bond. eg: https://www.first4magnets.com/product/adhesive-10mm-dia-x-1mm-n42-neodymium-magnet-058kg-pull-2823

The definition in the Air Navigation Order is rather different to Wikipedia (surprise!) and rather more apposite: "Meaning of “in flight” 3. An aircraft is deemed to be in flight— (b)in the case of a pilotless flying machine, or a glider, from the moment when it first moves for the purpose of taking off, until the moment when it next comes to rest after landing;........... and the expressions “a flight” and “to fly” are to be construed accordingly."

JPerkins import the engines & spares now: https://www.jperkins.com/search/i/jp_b_sc/s/q//brands/all/categories/Engine Spares/filters/all/p/1?w=jp_b_sc

It will become longitudinally unstable, ie tend to climb or dive without being commanded &/or become very sensitive to elevator inputs. Here's the theory as to why from my theory of flight study notes:

Ripmax Ltd is in administration but Amerang Ltd trading as Ripmax is still active & distributing Aerofilm. From their website: The manufacturing company ceased production in 2018. Since then Andrew Hardman, son of the founder Derek, has been selling off old stock but has said there is zero prospect of them restarting production. As he is 68 years old now I think we can take him on his word. https://solarfilm.co.uk/

Indeed, but: That is the case, as can just be made out from the illustration in the assembly manual: My original FunCub was passed to a Clubmate when I bought the NG version & I have also had the XL. In each case one flap servo needs reversing - I checked my radio setup before my earlier post advising what needed to be done.

A 'Y' lead won't work on the flaps - the servos need to drive in opposite directions. I expect what is happening is that when one moves the other is stalled against the wing. You will need to either use a reversing 'Y' lead where a small chip in one lead reverses the signal to one servo or allocate the flaps to 2 different channels, one of which is reversed.

£269.99 RRP Bruce Dave did me a good deal!