John Lee

No it doesn't, in fact it is remarkably quiet even for an electric model. Times have changed, as another current thread about the loss of flying sites vividly illustrate, and we must move with it. My last one had a HB61 with the open front venturi exhaust. We would lose our flying site in very short order if I still flew the likes of that.

Successful maiden plus two further trouble free flights this morning of my Kwik Fly Mk3. I bought the Seagull kit at Weston Park, it has a Hacker Motor & ESC running 6S, Jeti radio, JR servos and it flies just like a Kwik Fly should! It's my 4th full size, the earlier 3 were all IC & were sold on, I've also had a Flea Fly & an even smaller Mini version.

I have a Delta one purchased many moons ago, I think from Maplins (that dates it!). Like Paul's Lidl one, utterly useless. I tried all the recommendations but a 10p toothbrush gave better results. It's laid in its box in the shed ever since. Image from eBay (not mine)

I use self adhesive magnets but glue them in place with an appropriate adhesive for the material it is to be attached to. The glue combines with the self adhesive giving a secure bond. eg: https://www.first4magnets.com/product/adhesive-10mm-dia-x-1mm-n42-neodymium-magnet-058kg-pull-2823

The definition in the Air Navigation Order is rather different to Wikipedia (surprise!) and rather more apposite: "Meaning of “in flight” 3. An aircraft is deemed to be in flight— (b)in the case of a pilotless flying machine, or a glider, from the moment when it first moves for the purpose of taking off, until the moment when it next comes to rest after landing;........... and the expressions “a flight” and “to fly” are to be construed accordingly."

JPerkins import the engines & spares now: https://www.jperkins.com/search/i/jp_b_sc/s/q//brands/all/categories/Engine Spares/filters/all/p/1?w=jp_b_sc

It will become longitudinally unstable, ie tend to climb or dive without being commanded &/or become very sensitive to elevator inputs. Here's the theory as to why from my theory of flight study notes:

Ripmax Ltd is in administration but Amerang Ltd trading as Ripmax is still active & distributing Aerofilm. From their website: The manufacturing company ceased production in 2018. Since then Andrew Hardman, son of the founder Derek, has been selling off old stock but has said there is zero prospect of them restarting production. As he is 68 years old now I think we can take him on his word. https://solarfilm.co.uk/

Indeed, but: That is the case, as can just be made out from the illustration in the assembly manual: My original FunCub was passed to a Clubmate when I bought the NG version & I have also had the XL. In each case one flap servo needs reversing - I checked my radio setup before my earlier post advising what needed to be done.

A 'Y' lead won't work on the flaps - the servos need to drive in opposite directions. I expect what is happening is that when one moves the other is stalled against the wing. You will need to either use a reversing 'Y' lead where a small chip in one lead reverses the signal to one servo or allocate the flaps to 2 different channels, one of which is reversed.

£269.99 RRP Bruce Dave did me a good deal!

There were plenty there today meeting that description! 😃 I had a good day out, most of the usual stuff was there. I sold a couple of models at the swapmeet which nicely funded a new acquisition: These have just arrived in the country & J Perkins had brought some up, I got the first off the lorry via Dave @ Inwoods usual great service. I've previously built 2 Kwik Flies going back to the 70's plus a Flea Fly & the SG models mini version.

@Phil Green There is a pass offered on Facebook just now. I've redacted the details of the poster for his privacy on this public site:

Most decent chargers have a NiMh discharge/cycle function. Enerloops use the same parameters as other NiMh's.

Mine have an empennage 😇 with apologies for the thread drift.

'Big Clive' has had a look inside various cells, comparing & contrasting, including Enerloops: I do find his channel entertaining & informative. The attached file is a few years old now & shows various discharge curves: I've been using the same 4.8v flight pack on the bench for 15 years & it still seems to perform as good as new, I perhaps give it a charge every 2 or 3 years. In my experience Enerloops are far superior in every respect to other NiMh's. Enerloop data.pdf

My experience with the larger e-flite retracts is that the more channels & cables that you throw at them the better they work! I initially started with a 3 way Y lead but eventually ended up with individual channels for each of the legs & a separate servo for the nose wheel steering. For want of a better word the signal seems to get 'diluted' across multiple legs with Y-leads and the amplifiers controlling the mechanism struggled to latch onto the signal. Wiring each leg to an individual channel on the Rx completely cured the problem at the expense of needing a 10 channel Rx on a relatively simple model. I used quite a small metal geared servo for the nose leg steering in preference to putting an expensive flight control servo at risk. By all means try the simple Y-lead solution first as your's may be not so finicky, but be prepared to re-engineer.

Firmly attached wire u/c for me Tim. Let's face it - there is no excuse for a poor landing with a Super 60! 🤣

Assuming this is correct then: https://www.4-max.co.uk/pdf/How2wireupaUBEC.pdf substituting the Rx battery for the UBEC in the diagram.

+1 You may want to check out the rest of last December's thread.

Frank Wang, the founder & owner of DJI, is the first 'RC' billionaire with a net worth of $4.8Billion according to Wikipedia. So no wonder the Company uses the mainstream media for advertising. It's big business.

It's not that hard! Index: And to save your brains further here's what's on Page 16:

Multiplex's primer is designed to etch the surface to enable paint to stick. But as it says in the instructions 'don't apply excessive MULTIPrimer or paint, as it could damage or even destroy the part'. My little tin is 15 years old & I've only used about half of it over that time. The mearest wipe over with a cloth dampened with it suffices. The latest version of Multiplex's paint has been reformulated so that it does not need primer. From their website:

BMFA Handbook: This month's BMFA News (GPS Racing article): Take your pick......🤷‍♂️