nigel newby
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Everything posted by nigel newby
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Thank for advice so far. I have read the article on fake servos. You will all be pleased to know that mine are genuine. The photo I showed was from an online site to save me taking piccys. Here are piccys of my servos. I would not worry about the white output shaft, but I checked the bottom of the servo and the wiring on the PCB is that from Futaba. So all is ok there. I will just put the rubber grommets on the bottom with the brass but pointing up. At least I now know how to check for dodgy servos. Thanks a lot Nigel N
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As an aside to my other thread, how should one attach the servos? I know how to on the ones that the grommet covers both the top and bottom of servo, but looking at what I have it is a flat piece of rubber and brass ferrules. So does the rubber go to the bottom of the servo with the brass going upwards. See photo of bits Thanks Nigel N
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Posted by Nigel R on 22/11/2018 10:56:13: Jury's out for me. Obviously torque rods & central servo are a tremendously unfashionable setup nowadays. If you fit outboard servos upright in the wing, they can be quick, but, lots of bits stick out. Time you've messed about making nice neat hatches, a torque rod setup is likely quicker. Torque rods don't need any fussing with getting the subtrim matched side to side. Torque rods don't need so many plugs when assembling. Torque rods are externally clean, if that's worth anything. Weight wise, I doubt one or other setup has much advantage. For an ARTF foamie manufacturer, different ball game, torque rods are awkward and difficult and separate servos are easy. Hi Nigel R I am of the same mind as you are, would much prefer the single servo, but as there is so little to work with, and I don't fancy the soldering route, I am left a bit high and dry. I might give the electrical connectors a try though. You know the things, Two screws where you pass the wires through and the tighten the screws, but I think that there is just not enough left to work with. Nigel N
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Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 22/11/2018 11:04:54: Posted by nigel newby on 20/11/2018 20:20:40: I am just about to fit the servos in my Bi-Fly. I have a box of mixed servos. Some have cut outs in the fixing hole that I can put a small piece of rubber with a brass insert. The others just have holes and their is no way to fit the rubber and brass sleeve. Is there another type of rubber that fits this sort of servo? Or can I just cut away a small portion of the servo? or don't bother, and just screw the servos in place. Nigel N The ones with just the holes used to come with round rubber grommets. No local supplies? Hi Manish, yes I have managed to get some rubber grommets, plus the brass inserts, so am just awaiting delivery.
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Posted by Don Fry on 22/11/2018 11:12:14: Nigel, be wary of EBay for 3003 servos. Many were never made by Futaba, just cheap nasty fakes. Thanks Don, These are in a box of old unused servos that I have, so I think they are genuine. Nigel N
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Hi Bob, Well I thought I would stick my oar into the chat. Welcome to the hobby. If you want something to fly, with not to much worry, have a look on EBay. I saw a Vintage radio controlled plane with a 4 stroke engine go for £28 lately. Try to find perhaps a 3 channel type plane with a large dihedral. These plane tend to sort themselves out when in trouble. Just let go of the controls and they tend to head back to straight and level. Find a local club, they will teach you to fly, with a bit of luck. All this gives you time to build your own plane, and be in a better position to fly it when complete. But never forget we do this all for enjoyment. Have fun Nigel N
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Thanks chaps, have just found out that my futaba 3003 servos have a different grommet etc. So have just ordered some from RC models. They were cheaper than on ebay. Nigel N
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More advice required for Precedent Bi-Fly
nigel newby replied to nigel newby's topic in All Things Model Flying
Thanks for the advice on the ailerons chaps. I have decided to fit two servos as I am a bit worried about soldering on two new bits to steel. Steel takes a fair bit of soldering and as it is a foam wing the heat that gets conducted down the metal might melt the foam. Also as someone pointed out they look like they have been cut off, so will go with the two servo set up, as perhaps the single servo was not to good on this model. Will go with a 40 something engine as my MDS 61 is too big to fit in the engine compartment. Trebor how is your elevator controlled? Is it by a rod or a Bowden cable set up Nigel -
I am just about to fit the servos in my Bi-Fly. I have a box of mixed servos. Some have cut outs in the fixing hole that I can put a small piece of rubber with a brass insert. The others just have holes and their is no way to fit the rubber and brass sleeve. Is there another type of rubber that fits this sort of servo? Or can I just cut away a small portion of the servo? or don't bother, and just screw the servos in place. Nigel N
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More advice required for Precedent Bi-Fly
nigel newby replied to nigel newby's topic in All Things Model Flying
Well the engine is an old 60 so might be ok. If it fits into the engine compartment. As to the aileron torque rods (Another new term learnt) How does one go about fixing them, as I don't want to ripped the wing apart. Can you by sleeves that crimp over them or something. nigel N -
Posted by Cuban8 on 19/11/2018 13:49:04: I think I read somewhere that claims were being made against damaged models, i.e if I've understood it correctly, models wrecked in the pits by a club mate's model crashing into it. Or have I got that wrong? Does that mean I can claim for my 7/8 Spitfire that was hit by a foamie and burst into flames, and ended up as a pile of ash that a sudden gust of wind blew awa, along with all my receipts.
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Hi again, lads and lasses. More advice required for the Bi-Fly. This is a 49" wing span plane. There appears to be two ways to connect the ailerons up to servos. The first is with a servo in the center of the wing. The trouble is that the aileron control stubs are only about 1/4" long which seems a bit short. See photo The other way is to have a servo in each side of the wing and use two servos. See Photo There is a passage way through the wing section to run the cable into the aircraft via the centre servo hole.. Which way would you do it. I will be using a old 6 channel 35mhz Futaba T6EX transmitter. I might be able to use a mix in the transmitter to give flaperons as opposed to just ailerons using this method, although I am not sure I would ever need flaps. One of my worrys is that there quite a bit of heather where I will fly it, and as the servos are on the outside could thay get ripped out if landing short in the heater. Next there is the elevator. Would I be better using a rod with wire whipped to the ends, or a cable epoxy in the end of the airframe. Lastly I think I have a 60 engine up stairs would this be too big and should I get hold of a 40. Cheers Nigel N Edited By nigel newby on 19/11/2018 19:46:53
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Nigel R thanks for that, at least I have an idea of what to do next. Nigel N
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Thanks chaps will get to it soon. Are the struts essential, or just for show? Will look for a fuel tank,etc. Nigel N
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Don't know how this post got in this section, but hey ho. It was meant to go in all things model flying. Still , thanks for the info will zap an email of to SLEC and see if they still have any. Nigel N PS I am still a Newby as I have always been one. LOL Edited By nigel newby on 11/11/2018 00:04:19
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Hi all, I have a Precedent Bi-Fly 48. I am just about to finish it off ready for flying. Don't know too much about it, but it should have stringers between the wings Would it be ok to get some ali tube, flatten the ends drill holes and then use these as stringers. I do not have and plans for it although I have found some here on this forum. The trouble is that they are a bit hard to read. Also need to sort out an undrcart and wheels, but I think my LMS will be ok for that. Nigel N
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I just had a e mail telling me my pay pal account was frozen, Checked with pay pa; and all was ok, so left them the web details I was supposed to go to. Nigel N
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Cheers for the info chaps.
