Skippers Walker

Hi Jonathan thanks for your response. The model is an Andreas F5J 'Introduction' kit from Hoellein, Germany. Very well cut and the plan is excellent too. Cheers Chris

Many thanks guys. Cyno it is then, especially as the laser ribs are very tight fitting along the carbon spar. I note the need to carefully align before applying the cyno, the German plan is very well printed so building over it is a breeze. SW

Hi I'm building a 2.8m glider wing from a German kit (my knowledge of German is very limited!). Most of the construction requires just common sense and care but I'm faced with threading and fixing balsa ribs onto a carbon spar and would like to know which glue would be the best glue for this task please? Cheers SW

Hi Ken I have used the 'Deluxe Speed Bond' white glue to good effect, it begins to 'grab' after about 10 minutes. Water soluble too, so the clean up is quite easy. Have plenty of masking tape or similar to hand for the complex curves. Please check the Deluxe website for full info before starting just to make sure? Cheers SW

Thanks for the helpful comment Gary. Since reading your post I have hooked up both types of servos and as you suggested the digital servo appears to respond quite well whilst a Futaba basic analogue servo has a rather pitiful reaction to movement of the Gyro! Digital will be my preference. Cheers for now Chris (SW)

I have recently acquired a Futaba GYA460 (similar to the Dualsky FC151 I believe?) and despite reading quite a lot of information about the system I cannot determine if it will work successfully with both Analogue and/or Digital Servos? Can anyone comment further about this query please? SW

Just adding to the content regarding the repair of Foam constructed models: Following some experimenting with a limited number of products I can also suggest Delux Materials "Super Phatic" adhesive works on Z Foam & very efficiently. It allows 15-20 minutes to position and 'clamp' the parts together before beginning to set. The product is recommended by Deluxfor a wide range of materials used in models and includes foam. Costs about £5.60

Thanks everyone plenty of top tips from folk who have clearly used tried and tested methods (and glues). Looks as if UHU and Goriila are popular.... I've got both on the workshop shelf , but only the G/ Brown version. Cheers for now SW

Thanks Shaun, I've got plenty of standard Cyano glue. The fracture is more of a long crack than a clean break, the top part is still intact. I'll cautiously try a decent Cyano and 'hope'. I've already located a new fuselage just in case of failure! Cheers Chris (SW)

Following a slightly heavy landing I have noted a partial fracture in the front end of the foam fuselage. The Handbook states that the fuselage is constructed of Z Foam and gives the impression that repairs may be done with "Cyano, hot glues and Epoxy"..no mention of making sure that foam friendly Cyano only is to be used? The handbook does advise against the use of cyano 'kickers'. Please can any fellow Foamy fliers tell me if Z Foam is OK with a standard Cyano adhesive? Thanks SW

Many thanks Davey for the info. I'll look out for an Emax motor or similar. I already have a 3S 700mA battery that should fit nicely. Once I get it set up and flying I will post the result. Cheers for now Chris (SW)

Thanks Davey. My original version was powered by a ED Bee 1cc--still got it in a drawer somewhere! The current model is a trip down memory lane, also an age thing! I'll look out for your reply Cheers SW (Chris)

Just interested to know if anyone has 'electrified' this old F/F design and if so what was the power train set up please? SW

I take your point Simon, it has usually been my practice to equip most of my previous models with their own Rx's. The Spektrum DX6i will be used on a limited basis with a fellow Spektrum user essentially as a buddy tool. I'll probably set up no more than a couple of 'trainers' on the Spektrum until becoming, hopefully, able to fly power solo. I have flown mainly Slope Soarers and Competitive Thermal gliders for more than 40 years but I'm a relative late comer to power flying...hence the buddy box connection for a while. My main R/C kit is Futaba. Best wishes Christopher

Thanks for the helpful comments. RS Components look like a possible source of quality pliers. I guess that the actual motor manufacturers must have access to the correct kit. Kind regards SW

Please can anyone suggest an inexpensive set of kneedle nose circlip pliers to use for this task? It's very difficult to determine from the various tools advertised the actual tip size. I already have internal and external circlip tools but they are far too 'industrial' for the very small clips on brushless motors. SW

Thanks for all your replies to my Spektrum questions, all very helpful. I'm pleased to report that my binding attempts have all been totally successful. As is usual in life no matter whatever your age and experience there is always something new to learn! Cheers Christopher (SW)

Thank you Simon for your advice, I'll certainly pay attention to the aerial. I obtained the almost new condition Spektrum RX & two AR6220 RXs plus a couple of Futaba servos from a chap who had quickly lost interest in aeromodelling. One Rx was still in its box! I'm a fairly recent convert to 2.4Ghz equipment, transiting through the years from a Skyleader 27Mhz outfit (1970's) to my previous Fleet 35Mhz set up. I certainly embrace simplicity and do not require the complex 'bells and whistles' offered on some many modern bits of electronic kit today. Prevailing upon you knowledge just one more time; the DX6i offers 10 'memories', is it therefore possible to use the same Rx for more than one model registered, presumably re binding the Rx on each memory allocation? Thanks again for your time and patience. Chris (SW)

Many thanks Simon, I'll follow your advice and trust that all will be well. My confusion arose from reading the Spektrum Manual set up procedure that shows using a Rx switch and charge lead for the initial bind procedure!

I have a second hand DX6i TX and compatible RX but no Battery Harness/switch, just a bind plug. Is it possible to bind the two units without a switch please?

Thanks for the reply Don. I'm nearing 77 and having spent most of my modelling 'life' flying slope soarers and thermal gliders, the power scene is relatively new to me. I picked up the modelling hobby again about 3 years ago following a lengthy break from building and flying. Fortunately I have become pally with with a small local group of mainly power fliers and it's good not to feel under any pressure to 'perform' on the flying field. I've recently built and flown a standard Junior 60 a have a Vic Smeed Madcap that's awaiting a maiden flight. I first flew this model design as F/F in the 50's. I have a selection of electric gliders that fly well. Almost all of the flying at our field is electric. I'm amazed both by the modern kit and by it's efficiency, you never stop learning. The Falcon is a short kit and will no doubt take me many hours of workshop time to complete with the hope of flying it next year! Best wishes Chris (SW)

Thanks for the comments folks. I'm intending to fly this one electric! Our Field has to be kept 'neighbour friendly'. The Falcon will be my Winter build project so I'm not intending to fly until 2022. Seems a bit like winter round here just recently- rain and wind for days!! Cheers for now Chris (SW)

I recently purchased a complete set of Bellair laser cut formers/rib parts for this classic model plus the plans. Strip and sheet wood is required to finish the model. Are there any modellers out there who may have constructed this particular model before and may have a list of the additional materials that are needed? Kind regards SW

I'm awaiting delivery of the Belair parts kit as a late Summer/Winter build project. My intention is to install electric power. I've seen the 4Max suggested set up but I would be interested to read about any other successful electric set ups used by builders of this model? I look forward to reading any responses. Cheers for now SW

Hello Dave I certainly did finish the Madcap (picture attached). The model is still on my bench awaiting a first flight. I have, as you probably may have seen from my recent posts, been concentrating on getting the Junior 60 airborne safely. The Madcap is the next in line then another 'lockdown' model a Tony Niijus Sky 40e!. Busy times ahead whenever the weather permits. Thanks for asking, I hope that you are getting some flying time in now? Cheers for now Chris