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Steven Hurd

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Posts posted by Steven Hurd

  1. Thanks for the input, 

     

    I have had a weigh of the wings, and did a rough calculation of the weight against area of the material removed. My sums came to 1.25 ounces per wing, so I’m now clear that this would not really be worth the extra effort. 
     

    May  I ask Richard, when you made the aileron surfaces bigger, did you follow the option instructions of taking 1/2 inch off the back of the wing then adding the same to aileron? Or did you just make the surface bigger, I’ve looked at the wing and either would seem to work, but the latter would be a lot easier. 
     

    thanks 

                   

    steve 

  2. Hi there 

     

    Has  anybody built the above Chris Foss kit, but built it with the wing options. 
     

    I’m interested in thoughts on lightening the foam wing as per the option drawings, did it make a difference? 
     

    And also the larger ailerons for “ sparkling roll rate” which involves cutting 1/2 inch off the rear of the wings trailing edge and then sticking a piece of 1/2 inch balsa to the aileron stock to make the ailerons larger. This seems a lot of work, but does it make a lot of difference to the roll rate etc, or is the roll rate ok without it? 
     

    just looking for opinions before I start hacking into a perfectly good wing 

     

    thanks 

     

    steve 

    • Like 1
  3. You could use epoxy, open the crack as you have it in the picture. Either syringe in some thin epoxy, or get some in with a lolly stick. Let the crack close onto the glue. Allow to go off then put a couple of slits across the repair and glue in either carbon strip, 1/6th ply, or indeed a couple of lolly sticks side ways on across the split for reinforcement. 
     

    note: this can also be done with aliphatic resin or pva, but give it at least 24 hrs to dry if you use these. 

     

     

  4. I used hobbyking pla that was on the printer at the time, I used a 50% infill, and it seems strong enough, did you guys use more infill than that? Or did you use a harder material. 
     

    Thanks 

     

    steve 

  5. Ron, 

     

    Can I ask about the alternative wing and how that is constructed. Also, hen it’s built do you then use the covering material across the step to the trailing edge to form a wing section or is the step part of the aerodynamics. 
     

    Thanks 

     

    steve

  6. Hi there 

     

    Just been to my local model shop and talking to the chaps there, they were sure that it was possible to convert an acrowot kit to electric power. I’m quite taken by the thought, but on the website there only seems to be conversions for the wot 4 and the uno wot. Has anybody successfully converted the model, and if so what were the components required / used, I.e motor battery, and of course how these were fitted around the original kit.

     

    Thanks 

     

    Steve  

     

     

  7. Ron 

     

    A big thanks to you  for answering my questions in regards to building this model. Your help was appreciated. It was my first go at foam models and although I’m ok with balsa, the material was unfamiliar and left me scratching my head a few times. I guess when I got stuck in I realised that the best way was to treat it like balsa wherever you can, and adopt knew techniques when you need them. 
    however it does produce a useable model, and mine will get a maiden when the weather gets a bit better. 
    my setup is 

    overlander 2830 1300kv 

    apc 8x6 electric

    1300 3s 

    30 a esc. 
    However my wattmeter seems to say that I’m pulling about 260w, wot. Has your motor stood up to this in normal flying or should I downsize the prop to say an 8x4. 
    I’m looking forward to a change in the weather, when I’ll have a go at that competition called the skid mark 

    Thanks 

     

    Steve

    712C9846-E675-45B5-A0E6-F3C6D6827823.jpeg

  8. Ron 

     

    Looks like a great day out, with fun for all who took part. Well done organising that. 
     

    Can I ask what prop you are using on the foam version?. 
     

    my setup will be. 
     

    overlander 2830 1300kv 

    3s 1300 

    30a esc. 
     

    Thanks 

     

    Steve

  9. Ron 

     

    When you make the 3d printed parts for the battery tray, how thick do you make it, and what density of infill do you use, I was thinking of about 25% infill, and maybe 1.5mm thick so as to not add too much weight, but would appreciate your input. 

    Thanks 

     

    Steve 

     

  10. The grease proof worked a lot better, though I did spray it with silicon polish first, it did try to stick but came off very clean. 
     

    So do you mean I can cover the blemishes with parcel tapes or the glue doesn’t stick to the parcel tape. 
     

    Thanks for your tips they may seem simplistic questions but they are very helpful when answered. I’m having a great time using foam for the first time, and I think it may have a future in my modelling room. 
     

    Steve 

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