Steven Hurd

Mike Can I ask if the electric version has the same wing profile as the original, or is the electric a bit thinner ? Thanks Steve

Try this thread it may help

Thanks for the input, I have had a weigh of the wings, and did a rough calculation of the weight against area of the material removed. My sums came to 1.25 ounces per wing, so I’m now clear that this would not really be worth the extra effort. May I ask Richard, when you made the aileron surfaces bigger, did you follow the option instructions of taking 1/2 inch off the back of the wing then adding the same to aileron? Or did you just make the surface bigger, I’ve looked at the wing and either would seem to work, but the latter would be a lot easier. thanks steve

I’ll take this as nobody has tried the mods then. thanks for looking all the best Steve

Hi there Has anybody built the above Chris Foss kit, but built it with the wing options. I’m interested in thoughts on lightening the foam wing as per the option drawings, did it make a difference? And also the larger ailerons for “ sparkling roll rate” which involves cutting 1/2 inch off the rear of the wings trailing edge and then sticking a piece of 1/2 inch balsa to the aileron stock to make the ailerons larger. This seems a lot of work, but does it make a lot of difference to the roll rate etc, or is the roll rate ok without it? just looking for opinions before I start hacking into a perfectly good wing thanks steve

Well done that looks brilliant, Can’t wait to see it in the mags. Hope the maiden goes well Steve

Is this model available to buy as a kit or a plan, looks superb, do you have any details as to the electric power plant required to fly it ? Keep up the good work it’s appreciated Steve

You could use epoxy, open the crack as you have it in the picture. Either syringe in some thin epoxy, or get some in with a lolly stick. Let the crack close onto the glue. Allow to go off then put a couple of slits across the repair and glue in either carbon strip, 1/6th ply, or indeed a couple of lolly sticks side ways on across the split for reinforcement. note: this can also be done with aliphatic resin or pva, but give it at least 24 hrs to dry if you use these.

Ron Made a couple of these, and they are great. It has saved at least 2 ripped nails and sore fingers already. Thanks for the upload steve

I don’t see why not. Bear in mind what you are repairing and it’s effect on integral strength, and use reinforcement in highly stressed areas. good luck with the repairs

Delks Thanks keep us informed, these 2 models were on my list years ago, but I never got round to building either. I am going to try an electric version and I really fancy the chilli wind as it looks a good candidate for an electric conversion. Fabulous pictures from yesteryears, it looks like you had a great time Steve

After the Breeze has been tested, is it possible that the information gained could be used to convert the Chilli wind as well? Both these models seem very interesting and a nice build. thanks

Thanks Ron Steve

I used hobbyking pla that was on the printer at the time, I used a 50% infill, and it seems strong enough, did you guys use more infill than that? Or did you use a harder material. Thanks steve

Ron Thanks for the STL file, just printed a set and they work fine. Hopefully it may save a nail or 2 in the future Steve

Thanks Ron and Kevin. I will be building that wing next, it looks an easy wing to construct, and cover. Steve

Ron, Can I ask about the alternative wing and how that is constructed. Also, hen it’s built do you then use the covering material across the step to the trailing edge to form a wing section or is the step part of the aerodynamics. Thanks steve

The maiden was a success, but I can say the model can get away from you very quickly., Nice chuck on the car fly anywhere model. And great value for money. Steve

Bruce Thanks for the tip, I’ve just downloaded it and you’re right it’s a great start. I will study it a bit more and see if I can do something similar.m Thanks Steve

Hi there Just been to my local model shop and talking to the chaps there, they were sure that it was possible to convert an acrowot kit to electric power. I’m quite taken by the thought, but on the website there only seems to be conversions for the wot 4 and the uno wot. Has anybody successfully converted the model, and if so what were the components required / used, I.e motor battery, and of course how these were fitted around the original kit. Thanks Steve

Ron A big thanks to you for answering my questions in regards to building this model. Your help was appreciated. It was my first go at foam models and although I’m ok with balsa, the material was unfamiliar and left me scratching my head a few times. I guess when I got stuck in I realised that the best way was to treat it like balsa wherever you can, and adopt knew techniques when you need them. however it does produce a useable model, and mine will get a maiden when the weather gets a bit better. my setup is overlander 2830 1300kv apc 8x6 electric 1300 3s 30 a esc. However my wattmeter seems to say that I’m pulling about 260w, wot. Has your motor stood up to this in normal flying or should I downsize the prop to say an 8x4. I’m looking forward to a change in the weather, when I’ll have a go at that competition called the skid mark Thanks Steve

Ron Looks like a great day out, with fun for all who took part. Well done organising that. Can I ask what prop you are using on the foam version?. my setup will be. overlander 2830 1300kv 3s 1300 30a esc. Thanks Steve

Stuart. lovely looking model, and a good conversion, hope it flies as good as it looks Steve.

Ron When you make the 3d printed parts for the battery tray, how thick do you make it, and what density of infill do you use, I was thinking of about 25% infill, and maybe 1.5mm thick so as to not add too much weight, but would appreciate your input. Thanks Steve

The grease proof worked a lot better, though I did spray it with silicon polish first, it did try to stick but came off very clean. So do you mean I can cover the blemishes with parcel tapes or the glue doesn’t stick to the parcel tape. Thanks for your tips they may seem simplistic questions but they are very helpful when answered. I’m having a great time using foam for the first time, and I think it may have a future in my modelling room. Steve