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Jeffrey Cottrell 2

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Everything posted by Jeffrey Cottrell 2

  1. Jeffrey Cottrell 2

    Jeffrey Cottrell 2 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  2. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Chris When you say 22" do you mean the total length around the band, or the length of the band laid flat? If you mean the total length that would mean a chord around the 11" area. Rubber bands are measured folded flat, and unstretched.. I have some bands I use on my Limbo Dancer. These are just over 7" unstretched, but will happily stretch to over 11" in use. Other than that, Amazon do list some 200mm ( 8" ) here. Personally, I think 8" would do you fine. Jeff
  3. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Denis Looked through the instructions for my NX3 and can't see any reference to a prog card. Could you tell e where you found it? Jeff
  4. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Guys Not a complaint this time, but a puzzle. Bought a Rotring set square from a seller on e-bay. Price was £3.95 + free post. This ordered yesterday and arrived today. Not bad. The seller sent it by Bluecare Express, which I have never heard of, and included a tracking number. On the Bluecare express tracking site they are unable to provide any information for this parcel. Anyway, when I opened the package I found a packing slip saying 'Thank you for shopping with Amazon'. Eh? Checked on Amazon site and they have the same item at £3.50, with free shipping if I take on an Amazon Prime 30 day trial. Otherwise it's a whopping £4.49 to ship, prospective delivery on Saturday. I'm quite happy with the purchase, just a little puzzled whether I bought from an e-bay seller or from Amazon. Any thoughts? Jeff
  5. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi John So, 13 tries. You score 10/10 for persistence. At least it only needs doing once. As regards the rudder, remains to be seen. On my original thread here, John T did think the rudder could be a bit bigger. I moved the hinge line about 10mm further forward. No scientific reason, just looked about right. One thing I did notice. When you look at Andrew Newton's video, he inserts the torsion bar while the rudder and the fin are back to back. Even with the rudder central, the bar has already twisted some 180 deg. Can't imagine the airflow would be an issue, with that amount of twist already in place. What it does mean, though is that even with the rudder fully deflected in the direction of the spring the servo will still be working to limit the amount of deflection. Back to the question of the servo under load all the time. The system works well for dlg's so who am I to argue? The model has a really long tail moment, which means the rudder has a lot of leverage to work through. I think that'll be fine on the glide, after all this is 'radio assist' rather that 'radio control' but I wonder what it will be like under power, when I might need more rudder response. Won't know for sure till it's up in the air. Cheers Jeff
  6. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Again Things I do in the cause of science. So, clamped the rudder down to my bench, attached a length of Kevlar thread, over the edge of the bench and tied to a milk bottle. Kept adding water until I got figures for rudder central, and full deflection against the spring, then weighed the bottle and contents. Results I got were surprising, but in a good way. To move the rudder to its central position only took 137g, and to full deflection was 328g. Both well within the rating of the servo. I would say good to go. Any thoughts? Jeff
  7. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Dave Racking my brains trying to remember how I got mine to the right size. Must have involved screenshots somewhere along the line. Can only imagine I downloaded the screenshot into paint, and then adjusted the image size from there. Trouble is I found a page which allowed me to adjust the zoom percentage one point at a time. Darned if I can remember how I got to it. You say you downloaded a pdf version. The original drawings are in jpeg, so how did you get to pdf? Might jog my memory. About the servo, had the same thought myself. I am using one of the new Plush32 esc, which has a 4a sbec, so I don't think current draw is going to be an issue from that point. I pinched a slim wing servo from a stalled project which would fit in the pylon. The one I used is this,showing as 1.4Kg @4,8v. Knowing I would complete the stalled project sometime I cast about for a replacement, and came across these, seem to be the same servo. Will do some experimenting to see how much pull I actually need. Jeff Further to the rib size issue. I have a Canon iP1800 printer. If I go to print from the original page (not the screenshot) I get a page set up choice, which does include changing zoom percentages one point at a time. Dug out the prints I did originally to find correct setting, On one I have a cryptic note saying 130%=136mm The rib size you want is 138mm. I very seldom use page set up, so when I looked at it it had 133% as scale. I'm guessing if 130% is a fraction short, maybe 133% is the magic number. You may have noticed I'm not the most computer literate person in the world, but this might help. Good luck Jeff Edited By Jeffrey Cottrell 2 on 08/07/2020 22:48:55
  8. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Guys Sorry to drag the conversation back to where I started, but I have some good news. My spring steel arrived today, so I lost no time trying it out. I followed the instructions in Andrew's video, and it worked a treat. Surprised how much force the spring exerts. Did wonder whether airflow would cause the rudder to blow back, but that's not going to happen. So, on with the next task. Cheers Jeff
  9. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Guys Thanks for all your help. I now have enough links to this material to start my own shop. Time to pull the curtain down on this one. Meanwhile, Richard. Agree with everything you say, except it was never going to be a competition model. The reason I am building it is to scratch an itch I have had for many years. If it performs well at the end of it, that's icing on the cake. Having said that, did have a look through some competitions and found this one. Could have been made for the Gaucho. Mine would come in power band A, so 20 second motor run and 5 minute max. If mine doesn't get to a decent height in 20 seconds, that will be a disappointment. Whether i can achieve a 5min glide is another matter. Just done a quick and dirty weigh in of all the components. Came to 330 g or 11oz. With a wing area of 1.95 sq ft, that gives a loading of less than 6 oz/sq ft., firmly in the floater category. Would also question you referring to the Gaucho as a 'hotliner'. True, they both climb fast, but the hotliner also glides fast as well, witness the distance task in multitask events. With such a low wing loading and thick wing section, couldn't get the Gaucho to fly fast, even with a cattle prod behind it. Horses for courses, I suppose Jeff
  10. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Martin That's good to hear. Bangood are pretty good at shipping out stuff they have in stock. Not so good with stuff they don't have. Couple of orders held up at the moment because they didn't say they were out of stock. Guess with the current situation, a lot of high volume/low margin retailers are feeling the pinch, so they will do anything to get your money in their bank account. Unfair on the poor customers, but that's the way of the world. Out of interest, is your HK order coming through Singpost? I have two items ordered in April. Apparently haven't even reached the first stage of their journey, from HK warehouse to Singpost facility. HK swear they despatched them, Singpost say they never received them. As usual, poor customer caught in the middle. I can appreciate there are delays at the moment, but no-one will take responsibility for sorting this out. That's what really annoys me. OK, rant over Jeff
  11. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi John Same page on Outerzone has a link to an Italian website which has the wing and tail rib shapes. They are in pdf format at reduced size so need a bit of experimenting to print off full size. Well worth doing. The inner panel ribs are all pretty much the same size, so I made a ply template to cut round. For the tapered outer panels and the tail, printed off a couple of copies, cut out the shapes and glued them to the balsa. Probably ended up more accurate than would have been in the original kit. Hope you decide to build it. The world needs another Gaucho. Will keep you in touch with progress on mine. Jeff
  12. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi John This one's electric, as is all my fleet now. Did think about 2s, but eventually went with 3s so I could use a motor I built many years ago, but never found a use for. Hobbyking do (or rather did) do Nanotech single cells in tubular format. Similar size to an AA dry cell, but a little longer. Made up three of those into a 'Toblerone ' style pack and cut a recess in the fuz to take the extra cell, leaving only two on the surface. Might have to enlarge the side cheeks a little, and make them built up rather than block, but hopefully not enough to spoil the character of the model. Being electric, I can test fly it without the cheeks, and then decide. Static test shows 10860 rpm on a 7 x 5 APC-E prop, pulling about 11 a. Since switched to a GWS DD prop at 8 x 4. Not sure how it will perform in the real world, but on the static test, let's just say I won't need to dust my workshop for a while. Could do you some pictures if you're interested in the install. Have to mention my original thread here, and all the help from John T who has one up and running. Other than that, build it and let the gods decide. Cheers Jeff
  13. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Posted by John Wagg on 06/07/2020 19:22:22: And interested in what you are building. Hi John It's a Keilkraft Gaucho, from the Outerzone plan. Fancied one since I was a lad, long time ago, finally got round to building it. Just at the covering stage. soon to appear in a New Models thread, I hope Jeff
  14. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi John, thanks for the quick reply Doesn't need to be exactly 0.4mm. I am making up a spring return rudder system, as in this video. Must admit I did look on e-bay, but didn't notice those. Looks like I'm in business. Cheers Jeff
  15. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Skippers Could we have a link to the model? Jeff
  16. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Guys Anyone know where I can get some 0.4mm dia spring steel wire in this country. E-bay lists loads, but the all come from China, with all its attendant delays. Really like to have it before the turn of the millenium Cheers Jeff
  17. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Guys Similar sort of subject. Recently bought one of these from Bangood. Price was the factor, nothing much to lose if it's nbg. So, anybody used one, thoughts, opinions? Notice the price has gone down even further. Should I grab another one before they're all gone? Cheers Jeff
  18. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Steve The Topmodel site shows both gold and silver backplates, so I think that's just a production change. Been refining my Motocalc entry, and I've now got 10.3a on a 6 x 3 prop, That's pretty much convinced me I have the 16/15/4. I think the 6 x 3 is not ideal for a mini hotliner, so I'd be interested in what prop and cell count you run yours on. Could you let me know Jeff
  19. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Steve,spot on, thanks Looked at this from the Topmodel site, and that's the beastie for sure. Only question now is which one? All the models share the same dimensions, but I'm guessing either the /3 or /4. Only difference is Kv, /3 is 2800, while the /4 is 2110. Did find a way to measure Kv from the internet, but that made no sense at all. So I worked backwards. Downloaded a trial version of Motocalc., fed in what I know, and got the following results. Static, the /3 pulls 18a and 18963 rpm The /4 gives 8.8a and 14836 rpm. I have pulled the motor to see if it had any labels, so I can't get rpm readings as yet, but going by my cryptic note of 10.1a on 2s, my guess is it's a /4. Not that familiar with Motocalc, so if someone could check my figures. I'm using a Graupner Cam 6 x 3 folder, which MC doesn't list, and an old Polyquest 1450 2s LiPo which MC also does not list, Given that, I think predicted 8.8a is closer to the measured 10.1a. Your thoughts? Jeff
  20. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Guys, little mystery for you. Way back, when Methuselah's dog was a puppy, I started building a Simprop Peppo. Don't know why but I never finished it. Got as far as fitting the motor, but now I can't remember what it was, and it has no markings to help me out. So, here's the description. anybody recognise it? Its an inrunner, black case, gold backplate with three solder terminals on the back. Case is 36mm long and 28mm diameter, with a 3.2mm shaft. I suspect it's Eastern European, this was long before China took over the world. Cryptic note on the fuz says it pulled 10.1a on a 2s pack and a 6 x 3 Cam Carbon folder. Anyone help? Jeff
  21. Jeffrey Cottrell 2

    Jeffrey Cottrell 2 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  22. Jeffrey Cottrell 2

    Jeffrey Cottrell 2 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  23. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Malcolm, now you have me puzzled. When you say part 30 is not installed, does that mean just not fitted or missing altogether. if it's missing altogether, how do you know it does not have grubscrew provision? However, the problem may be more than that. Again from the diagram, mixer arm, part number 007 has a bolt going through it which then screws into part 30 and it's this that locks the flybar in place. If part number 30 is missing then there is nothing to bolt the mixer arm to, which means either it is floating about in mid air, or it's missing as well. Without that part, and its associated parts, there is no link from the swash to the head, and it will never fly. Is there any way you can get a photo of your head (the heli, that is) so we can look at what you have? Sorry if this compounds the problem Jeff
  24. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi again, Malcolm. Been doing a bit of research, and it seems the Mini-Pred is also known as the Falcon 3D in other parts of the world. Found a manual for the Falcon here. Could you have a look ant tell us if your model is the same as the one in the manual? Cheers Jeff
  25. Jeffrey Cottrell 2
    Hi Malcolm Colin beat me to it by a short head. Yes, what you refer to as the small rotor is the flybar. This goes through a square frame either side of the head. Where the flybar goes through the frame there should be two grubscrews to lock it in place. Either these screws are loose, or missing altogether. If they're only loose, tighten up with an allen (hex) key. If they're missing altogether you will have to source some replacements. I'm guessing they are 3mm, so here's the place to go. http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/steel_grub_screws.htm What you need are MF-GS31 Anyway, here's the procedure. I'm guessing there are two small blades on the end of the flybar. These are called 'paddles' and need to come off. No biggy, they only screw on. With those off, measure from the flybar frame to the outer end of the flybar. Actual distance is not important, but they must be identical each side. Once they are, tighten up the grubscrews, preferably using a touch of threadlock to retain them. Now you can screw the paddles back on. There is a thread on each end of the flybar. Screw the paddles on until you can't see the thread any more. The paddles should also be the same distance out from the frame on each side, But when you have got them as close as possible, you need to check the paddles are parallel with the flybar frame. Look across the top of the paddle and sight it visually with the frame. Might need to turn the paddle slightly, but getting them parallel is most important. Easier to do than to describe, but it should get you in the ballpark. Let us know how you get on Jeff
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