Nick Somerville
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Everything posted by Nick Somerville
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I posted a question a few pages back on how much solartex would be needed to cover my Stampe. I bought 3 x 2m rolls of Satin White after waving a metre rule over the plans and hoped for the best. Especially since it is so pricey. Bearing in mind I only covered the rear of the fuselage due to having glass clothed the front end (figured solartex around all the cabanes would be a mess) it turns out 3 2m rolls just did the job. And I mean just. tbh have been squirming a bit as until finishing the ailerons just now I really didn’t think I was going to have enough. Left overs amount to half a dozen snippets you couldn’t blow your nose on. so if anyone else is asking I would say 7m not 6m of standard width Solartex would be better to allow for.
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Re Tiggie Spreader Rod. Thanks for the clear photo. Looks quite detailed, but I am sure there is a simple way to deal with it.
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Tail feathers and rear of fus covered. Front end all glass clothed so just needs spraying. Will use Chroma over an etch primer, as no spray equipment for anything fancy.
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Good find. I had a feeling they might be called spreader bars. I guess they are just wired and soldered to the bracing wires and are there to prevent vibration or resonance setting in during flight.
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Its the black rod between the front and back rigging wites I was referring to. Have seen your neat conectora on page 14 and am working on fabricating similarly, thanks. Its the black rod linking the front and back wires I was rege
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So I am posting to ask if any contributors have experience of 2k lacquers in aerosol cans. I am covering a Precedent Stampe mostly in Satin White Solartex and the sheeted front end of the fuselage with glass cloth sprayed over with white enamel Chroma. Now the satin white Solartex looks like it will mark up easily with grubby finger marks etc. So was wondering about a light spray of the whole model (after painting the Chroma blue sunburst and trim lines Will the 2k satin lacquer add a lot of unnecessary weight and really I should just rely on the Chroma and tex for the fuel proofing. Fuel use for the model will be 5% nitro laser fuel btw.
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Would someone please explain how the rigging wire spreader rods are made and fitted at the mid point where they cross over. Thanks in anticipation.
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Finally a quiet dry day here so able to get outside and fettle away for the first fitting of both wings. Not quite true, but nothing a little more fettling and brute force won't cure. UC removed for painting. I have a film iron on order so once that arrives I can start covering the flying surfaces.
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Thanks to all the UC posts on this thread I have almost completed my sprung version. I used 169mm oleos from Hobbyking (took an age for them to deliver) and as they were a tad long I removed 9mm from the piston rods. To make the connection to the alloy brackets I soldered a 5m bolt into a one of the screw holes in a brass 16amp connector and cut the head off and removed half of the connector. The fore strut was similarly dealt with but using a smaller brass connector bolted to the fus. Everything else made from the cut up original uc piano wire with brass tube ends. A bit of brass strip for the centre link and main leg brackets. I haven’t forgotten the rear strut, which I will fit once I have finalised the wing seating. not too far off the covering stage once the front end has been fuel proofed. Need to start thinking about rigging wires. I didn’t bother on my first stamp but guess they will improve the look no end. Any advice on what wire to use and where all the attachment points are.. I do have a reel of 100lb black plastic coated trace wire, which I bought for the rudder Closed loop... any good?
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The cross bracing struts on my model fail with alarming regularity and the wing gets a bit wobbly without them. Where do they fail? I used piano wire bent as per the other cabane cross braces, bound and soldered, and at the deck I have soldered bespoke brass eyelets with 4m bolts through. Hen e my concern of lack of flex
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So here is a question about aligning the top wing. After mounting the cabanes and the top plates earlier in the build I noted that they were a bit out of alignment but figured I could deal with this later. Today I made up all the cross braces and also the additional braces going down to the top of the front turtle deck, as per full size and other models featured here, and then clamped up the top plates with a simple jig as per the photo. Today I soldered everything up and fitted the bolts down through the turtle deck. Once everything was set in place I released the jig and checked the top plates. Grrrr, not quite right!, as the top plates seemed to have some memory of their previous positions. Now with the additional diagonals to the centre of the fus, things are super rigid and although I have yet to trial fit the top wing I reckon it s going to be a bit of a struggle. When I built my first Stampe I didn't bother with any additional cross bracing and this meant the top plates were flexible enough to give some leeway to any minor inaccuracies. Back to my question...how have others managed with the super rigidity of the additional bracing? Is the flexibility of not having them a benefit? I am beginning to think the flexibility might be kinder to the airframe in a disorderly arrival with the ground.
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