Nick Somerville
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Everything posted by Nick Somerville
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Just thinking ahead to radio/battery installation.... how have most builds worked our re the c of g? Nose heavy or tail heavy. I know it’s a bit relative but I am generally a light builder, but have a fairly hefty Laser 180 up front. I know I added lead to one end of my first Stampe but can’t recall which end. Painted that one with a red sunburst top and bottom wings and with G-JOEL as a registration. Sold it to a couple of rogues from South Wales 😥
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A bit tooth paste like but simple enough with only the top wings painted with the sunburst.
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sorted out the challenging part of mounting the engine so it pokes through the cowl just right. Can’t say I got it right first time but it’s there now. Planning to model scale details on D-EBSH hence the louvres on this side of the cowling. I rather like them. In a recent post by Jon, I noted his Laser 180 was mounted on a circular radial mount. I understand why now as after modifying my front end for the same engine I discovered that the mounting holes on the mount lined up perfectly with the sides if the front crutch 😩. Thank goodness I had recently acquired a Dremel on ebay and was able to use a tool to mine out pockets for the captive nuts behind the firewall.
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Also as an aside, I do lots of glass fibre covering, but I have found nylon and dope to be probably better for covering sheet surfaces, especially on this type of model. what advatages are there in nylon and dope compared to glass clothing?
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so the fus and tail feathers are pretty near complete. As I only ordered the minimum amount of solartex to cover the model I think I will glass cloth the front end and only tex the rear open structure. There are so may protrusions what with struts, UC, oil tank and cowling details to work around it should be much easier. Hopefully I can find a white spray paint to match the white tex. I ordered a pair if Hobby K oleos. But the nearest size they had in stock was 169mm and not 150mm I wanted. Plan is to cut the end off, drill and tap for a 4mm connecting coupling of some sort. Edited By Nick Somerville on 15/11/2019 10:20:11
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Thanks for the replies all. So much helpful advice, looking forward to putting it into practise now.
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TBH if Flair was still selling their 1/4 scale Tiggie UC I would opt for it in a flash. Since they don't and I decided that for this build I would try one..... And I am committed now as I have cut an access through the front uc former for my tank to poke through, as the Laser 180 meant shortening the upper bay to less than suitable for a 14oz tank. Also this thread has some enviable looking scale like UC constructions from you guys, so that in trying to emulate them I should be able to learn some new skills. Martin has a point though as I don't recall ever damaging the UC in my first stamp, since it really wasn't a problem to grease the landings. The very reason for building one again is the happy memories of an afternoon spent flying touch and go's down the strip!
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So I have read and re read all the posts on sprung UC and have a question for those who have utilised gas struts of some form or another. Looking online there are lots available and in a variety of compression strengths along with some that have adjustable strength..... all measured in Newtons. Given that I can expect my Stampe to be around the 7kg mark how does one assess the overall required compression force required from a pair of struts? Meanwhile progress is good on the new model. Tail feathers all complete. Fuselage sides done and currently assembling the front end, with a few modifications to hang the wonderful looking Laser 180 that arrived today.. Thanks Jon. I will Get around to uploading some pictures once I have learnt how to do it on the this forum; though they look just like all the others already posted.
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So I measured up the plans and reckon a little over 4 sq metres will do the job. I have discovered that Solarfilm.co.uk are still selling solartex, despite the model shop yesterday saying it was no longer available. so have ordered some. I did wonder about nylon/silk though, as I have a recently replaced a reserve parachute that I had in my paragliding harness. I had had it for over 14 years so had been advised to replace it. It's a lovely fine weave so I thought it would be worth some trials with dope on a trial frame.
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So I finished fitting out my new workshop, the Slec Stampe kit has been distributed in the under build board drawers.and work has commenced. Given the need to purchase a myriad of accessories/ancillary parts, I took a trip to a barely surviving model shop an hours drive away. Having spent an eye watering amount on just a small bag of items I enquired about Solartex on my way out. So now I know it’s not readily available these days so what’s the alternative? Also if anyone can tell me the total coverage area it would be a great help. BTW the Slec kit so far has impressed me by the quality of supplied wood and the cnc router cut/laser cutting. A far cry from the original kit.
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Thanks for the tank and wheel replies fellas. Useful picture too Jon, that going to encourage me to try a sprung UC
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Resistance was futile and after 22 years since building my first Stampe (fitted with a Laser engine, 120 or 150 Can't remember) I have just purchased a new Slec Stampe kit. Will be fitting a Laser 180. Been great reading through this thread with so many useful tips so thanks everyone for your posts. Can I ask for some advice please on which wheels are best suited and also which size/make of fuel tank to fit.
