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Posts posted by Eric Robson
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Hi Chris, this is my set up the battery plugs into the inverter, I have on some used a switch mainly on a tender loco. I have fitted the same small connectors to all my loco's so that I can take the whole system out and put it in another loco, The controller has a 12 loco capacity. I have not used it much over the last two years as I have gone back to model aeroplanes. Apart from the loft layout I have a track in the garden, as the loco's have such a small current consumption I have not checked how long they last between charges . but the chap who put me onto the system does exhibitions and with an LNER tram loco it will run most of the day pulling 20 trucks on one charge. When I do go up to the loft I generally run something for about an hour the leave it for a few days and there is still plenty of charge in the battery. I build my own loco's from kits or scratch, this one is scratch built in nickel silver, only items bought were the wheels , chimney , dome and handrail knobs.
Cheers Eric.
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I soaked the balsa for the flaps and taped it around a 20mm diam floor mop handle and left it overnight I did not have to dampen it again.
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I won't be on the forum for a while, I ate a daffodil bulb I thought it was an onion. I have to go into hospital, the doctor said I will come out in the spring.
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Yes Jon, you do need to trim it .If you look at the tip end and follow the profile you will see where the top sheet should end, take an off cut f 1/16" balsa about 3mm wide hold it on the edge of the top sheet and you will see approx. how much to trim off.
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Hi Jon, flap area looks fine aileron ribs see to be a bit further in from the edge. don't take anything off the trailing edge if it is in a straight line from flaps to tip, sand the trailing edge lower sheet to a taper following the angle of the ribs the top should then fit neatly on .
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Hi Chris, what gauge is the train? I run gauge 0 on a single cell 600 lipo with an inverter which takes it up to 12v . Last time I bought some inverters they were £1 each from China, on a tank loco it fits in in the coal bunker and for a tender loco the battery goes in the tender under a card plate with a dummy load of coal on top the esc is from Micron RC. Just un plug the battery when finished .
Eric r.
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The Brian Taylor Tempest I am building recommends the battery mounted under the tank bay, I have not decided weather to f it a Laser 100 or go electric with the same set up as the Fury they both weigh the same , but either will be a lot heavier than the Merco 60 in the original so I will put the battery inside the fuselage. Putting the RX and batts in the cowl is ok but wrap them in polythene as there is always a mist of fuel around the cowl.
Cheers Eric.
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Hi Danny, I can't help much with the access to the tank but my Me 109 with a Saito 125 is prone to flooding with the tank being too high. I bought it second hand , it had not been flown and the bulkhead had been cut away for the rear exhaust on a petrol engine. I am going to go for a chicken hopper system to lower the feed pipe It is ok once running but if I fill the tank then don't start it right away the fuel comes out of the carb (messy stuff) but nice sound and good flight times. With modern fuels the tank should need very little attention no gumming up nowadays and if mounted secure with the pipes not stretched you should be alright. I always fit an inline filter between the tank and carb in an accessible position and a filter in the fuel can . I would imagen the tank on the Auster to be in front of the dash and you will be detailing the cab so making access limited. I would think the RX would fit near the tank but any where accessible would be fine don't forget to wrap it in foam so any leads that need to be disconnected for transport are easy to get to. I hope this helps
Cheers Eric.
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Thanks Ron, I loaded it up from my phone to lap top then turned it on the laptop I did not save changes that is possibly where I went wrong. In the gloom there is a foot just to avoid a rubbish picture.
Eric.
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10 hours ago, Jonathan S said:
Gordon,
Can you let me know how you bent the undercarriage legs mine our fouling the central spar and need a tweak.
I am not sure how best to do it due to the thickness of the wire.
Also can anybody post a pic of the trailing edge I have seen Eric's is that the best profile?
Thx again
I would not worry too much about trailing edges, I have a CML Me 109 65" span and the tail plane and elevator are flat 1/4" sheet not even the front rounded and it flies well. You just have to look at the current foam RTF'S and the wings all along the trailing edge are abut 5mm thick and they fly well. I always made the trailing edge sharp but it suffers from the slightest knock, I am not so fussy now.
Paul, I look at my P51 U/C and think it spoils it after seeing yours I may take time out from the Tempest and smarten it up. Not too keen on adding too much weight as it is nose heavy with a 4s 4000 in the tray. Did they have white sidewalls in WW2 ? if so it would probably be some invasion marking white painted on. It was a craze in the 1950's to have white side walls you could buy white rubber paint, one firm even made rubber overlays that had to be fitted by removing the wheel letting the air out of the tyre , then fitting the side wall which had a thin membrane between the tyre and the rim. At speed they used to flap like washing on a clothes line and did not fare well when the tyre got a puncture.
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I'm still a teenager, my problem is my body is not. Stick at it Chris it can only get better, Spring has arrived up here for a few days , been gardening as there is no flying.
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More like a Daffy Duck!
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Very helpful, apparently it took some getting down probably a warm summer day with thermals. one of my early builds was a Mercury Galahad on 2 channels and an O,S, 09 it flew round for almost 20 mins after the engine stopped catching the warm air coming up an embankment.
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Great work as usual Danny, My son built one of those with a big Plettenburg brushed motor. It was sold unflown . The fellow who bought it said he had a job getting it down, it just wanted to float on and on.
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Loodvig is vatching
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After much chopping and changing I have the Retracts where I want them. I had planned to put the rails in a line with the spar as the Seafury but that would limit the rake forward and as the Seafury is mainly depron it will be about half the weight of the Tempest. the wheels now are forward of the leading edge of the wing. I built the wing as per the plan making sure it was sitting on the jig tabs then left it over night next day I cut the notches out for the new main spar 14 mm behind the original. after that was firmly in place I cut through the original spar to create the wheel well. I am leaving the original spar in as well as the new one I think the extra weight will be ok and as only a small portion has been removed I can still put most of the vertical webbing where it should be. Now just got to make some 1/16" ply reinforcing plates for the ribs and try to get the other side to match.
Eric.
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What do you put in the tea Richard?
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On the BBC news this morning there was passengers videos of the engine burning the outer casing was meting and pieces were falling off, the biggest piece was the front ring which weighs a ton it dropped on an SUV which did not like it the owner was standing near when it happened. Fortunately no one was hurt.
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After this happened to me I always pin the hinges. I don't know what it is with this aeroplane but after repair it still pulls away on this aileron, it has no slop in the linkage no sign of flutter when flying, It has a Saito 125 fs up front which has a slight vibration and yes the prop is balanced. Note the rudder also pulled away.
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Don't see much of they up here, what a sight
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I use an old master balsa stripper, for top hinge ailerons I set the blade to the required distance from the top, mark where the slot needs to be the make the cut in the spar then cut the aileron on the same setting. For flat tail surfaces I set it to half thickness.
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I find Sellotape both sides and work from the corner, try not to let the tape stick together ( don't ask how I know). Great build David would love to see it in the air.
Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang
in Warbird kits
Posted
I think Alan is a Westland fan as there is also a Lysander in the same picture.