Mark Cornwell

Great job Richard. Superb pictures, which will really help those that have bought this kit. Got out this morning for a flight with Pug. It’s really good. The launch peg makes a pleasant whistle as it zooms up on launch!! Mine weighs in at 99 grams and it floats quite nicely. I’m pleasantly surprised with its performance. Looking forward to seeing the cover job. If it’s anything like your approach to building we’re in for a treat. I agree with you Richard. Even on a model as diminutive as the Pug solarfilm would be too heavy.

Hi Richard. The video of the spring pull is a good example of how to set up such a system. Though I don’t use springs as long as those featured in the video. Below is a picture of ones I use on both 1 metre and 1.5 metre dlgs. It works hassle/slop free and they last, dependent on frequency of flying, for up to 3 years. Best results are springs made from piano wire. I use 0.3mm piano wire. When setting up centre the servos, route non stretch Kevlar thread and attach to the servo horn and then to control horn. I don’t use any fancy knots, but I do loop the Kevlar thread through the control horn twice. This allows adjustment prior to securing with CA once set. Once CA is cured I tie simple over hand knots and CA the knot. Hope this helpful, that is assuming you do go the spring pull option!!

Hi Richard. The video of the spring pull is a good example of how to set up such a system. Though I don’t use springs as long as those featured in the video. Below is a picture of ones I use on both 1 metre and 1.5 metre dlgs. It works hassle/slop free and they last, dependent on frequency of flying, for up to 3 years. Best results are springs made from piano wire. I use 0.3mm piano wire. When setting up centre the servos, route non stretch Kevlar thread and attach to the servo horn and then to control horn. I don’t use any fancy knots, but I do loop the Kevlar thread through the control horn twice. This allows adjustment prior to securing with CA once set. Once CA is cured I tie simple over hand knots and CA the knot. Hope this helpful, that is assuming you do go the spring pull option!!

Hi Richard. The video of the spring pull is a good example of how to set up such a system. Though I don’t use springs as long as those featured in the video. Below is a picture of ones I use on both 1 metre and 1.5 metre dlgs. It works hassle/slop free and they last, dependent on frequency of flying, for up to 3 years. Best results are springs made from piano wire. I use 0.3mm piano wire. When setting up centre the servos, route non stretch Kevlar thread and attach to the servo horn and then to control horn. I don’t use any fancy knots, but I do loop the Kevlar thread through the control horn twice. This allows adjustment prior to securing with CA once set. Once CA is cured I tie simple over hand knots and CA the knot. Hope this helpful, that is assuming you do go the spring pull option!!

Hi Richard. Just finished a Pug airframe. I didn’t take build pictures, though it is a very simple build. There are some tolerance discrepancies. Noteworthy is the pylon mount. The tab to elevator groove fit width wise is too large by about 1mm. It needs to be tight or risk loosing the elevator and Pug! The airframe complete weighs 63grams and when fitted out with rc kit will weigh around 95 grams. I’ve modified the pushrods to a spring pull system using 0.3mm piano wire and Berkeley fishing line (see pictures). The Pug is covered using Oralight orange and transparent white. Rc kit is: 4 channel spectrum, 300mah 2S lipo, and bluebird 101HV servos. I used the bluebird servos as the spring pull system needs around 1kg torque. The only other aspect I altered was the nose block, which I rebuilt so there is space to get the lipo further forwards. Any questions and I’m happy to help.