Rich Griff
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Posts posted by Rich Griff
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Complete honda c90, not even a broken lens...not allowed to even touch it as it was in the empty scrap skip.
It went to landfill.........yeh, right...
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What's the smallest capacity ( Cc's ) petrol 2t strinmer people are using please ?
I know Kawasaki do a very neat small 18cc petrol engine one...
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So, pay your £20+, £30+, go electric mega bucks, go petrol purpose made ready to go with its ignition system ( self contained CDI, or battery powered ( is there a self contained ign system like a strimmer ? ), Or if a suitable hill ( or field ) is local, go thermal or slope soaring....
Other power sources as we know are available. A rubber powered even quite large model flown in a sports hall free flight needs skill and is rewarding.
Imo, all the above beats whacking a small white ball towards a pub.
What ever turns you on, son.
Enjoy.
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Or sell up your glow engines and buy a petrol one.
Os do a petrol *glow plug* I seem to recall ?
Maybe an experiment if that plug will fit your engine...you may have to alter carb jet/s, needles and plumbing, but we are aeromodelers well used to having to adapt, think outside the box, over come....
You could always do as the rtf foamy brigade do, go all electric.
Hope you have deep pockets...
Any hills near where you live ?
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Why is it recommended not to use an electric motor prop on a glow motor please ?
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Blimmey, no lack of moral fibre in him what so ever ...I hope he survives to today, or at least until a good old age
When the time comes, buy and wear your poppy .
Some of us cannot forget...
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Roger Bushnell has been in that field apparently...
200 meters from my friend house, so quite close...
Pictures tommorrow...
No real suprise no single *Merlin's* in the flypast today, not even a helo one.
As a matter of interest, how many Merlin's are needed for an unladen Lancaster to remain aloft, and how many to be able to land ok ?
Four Merlin's packing up on the same flight is very unlikely, unless.....
No, no, no, no, don't tempt fate, she'l land ok...god willing .
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Thanks FF, a plan view to show top of head would be good, radial serrations around *terminal post* ?
I suspect not having seen the engine, a rolled alloy terminal post retention method ?
Dens usually has 049 glow heads in stock, about £9 ISH plus postage, even the converted heads with suitable glow plugs, but I fully understand the desire to make a spare, seperate glow plug head .
Visit cef ( Cox engines forum ) for more info and be suprised what the members there are getting up to 😁
As a matter of interest, what rpm does a smallish brushless motor using a 6 inch prop rev to ?
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Hi FF,
Could you post a picture of your dead Cox head please
Plan view, side view and combustion chamber view please.
I assume you have not started the *modification* yet ?
Thanks in advance.
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Hi Andy, pm sent.
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Yep, easy with a lathe and tap, did a few years ago when poverty was the mother of invention ( 1980"s ) successfully bringing back a dead Cox head to life.
049 heads are not all equal, Texaco head is easy to identify, others need fin count.
For more info, visit Cox engine forum...
Dens model supplies in the uk stock more stuff these days.
There is always Cox international, exmodelengines. MECOA do Cox stuff but don't like exporting much, but that situation may have changed due to trump's tariff tantrums.
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Spitfire down in field near Hythe, Kent. Close to a friend's house, more later...
Happened hours ago so must have made TV news...
No casualties thankfully...
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Make a plan and instructions, post on here or even to the magazine...
What motor ( 3636 1200kv ) and where from etc., etc., etc...
Could you do one around a 4max economy motor, ESC and servo packs that are still advertised @ under 25 plus postage ?
also what foam board did/do you use etc. ?
great fun inexpensive model...
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So what broke, rod, pin or worse ?
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Of course we are all asuming good fuel tank installation, no *bent clunk pick up tube* and the throttle is open slightly, "tuned" to tx throttle stick and throttle trim, a non manual throttle trim on tx etc.. Engine throttle servo arm on engine trimmed in tune with the Rx throttle servo arm...
Full tx throttle with full throttle *trim* gives engine throttle fully open
Fully closed tx throttle stick with fully closed throttle trim gives engine throttle fully closed, so engine will stop.
Tx throttle fully closed but trim at throttle up, gives engine throttle somewhat open, engine idles reliably ......
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I presume the instruction sheet that came with your new motor is in the box ?
Is the slow running mixture screw inline with the hi speed needle, meaning hi speed needle would need to be tuned first ?
If the two needles are inline, then they screw into/
Protrude into the same spraybar/throttle drum/slow running needle assembly, meaning if one protrudes far enough, the other one will be preented from doing so, at slow speed setting ?
Hope no needles have become damaged ?
Post a picture of the carb along with an exploded view please.
I am sure John will be along after he finishes for work and will help more....
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Hi Steve,
Coloured self adhesive sticky film depending on wieght...
Or clear sticky film over
random *free* ex advertising correx boards, brrrrrrrrr it's cold in there...🤓
Packing tape comes in different colours these days ...
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A stitch in time and all that !
Valve clearance too wide or tight ?
And which valve ?
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Cox engines with *ball* little ends rely on castor.
Interesting that the new sc engines have an instruction sheet in the boxes stating only synthetic lub fuel to be used.
A further "engine specific" instruction sheet in the same box states 'only castor' lube fuel to be used with that engine...
The 09 rear exhaust engine ...
I do not remember ever seeing a kk nitrex 15 tin with that label...maybe it's a very early blend, pre 60's ?
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John Deere tractor *easy start* is rumoured to contain 70 per cent ether ?
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It may be of interest that Cox glow starters can be had with at least 2 AA batteries in a battery box wired in parallel...
So a 4 pack AA battery holder could be modified, if not already available, to supply the required voltage and current, ie wired in parallel.
As long as this unit had a built in/on lead, so no mistakes could be made, that may be a suitable glow power supply ?
Looking at this particular engines glow plug position, although on the engines rear, I think I would go to the trouble of a hard wired set up, with probably a suitable * banana plug and socket* setup on the model....
I am sure a 'clothes peg ' type set up could be made to work directly onto the plug/engine, being insulated, easy, hassle free and convenient to connect/remove etc....
I know the self grip connections and complete power packs are available and used, but they seem a quite wobbly fit on the glow plug, probably due to the rather heavy "battery", and do fail in use.
Maybe the tubular self grip *glow connecter* and battery box power supply is suitable.
I have had to repair two of these units so far....for other people....one being the self contained type, the other the tube type with remote battery box. Both faults were due to the self grip mech internal wiring...
Use whatever makes you happy...
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Goto *scepterflight* and look up articles on Mills 75 engine.
The Barton's control line forum has home brew formula threads...
Nitrate, Nitrite...
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Yes, a spare plug at hand, same as the one in the engine, to test for good glow, or not.
If you have a *power panel* with adjustable *glow power* output and a meter, great.
A common 12n12a4a1 electric start motorcycle battery with acid pack ( £30 ISH with free delivery, honda cb400n or larger cc bike )
contained in an old 2 wheeled shopping trolley box along with half gallon of fuel, manual fuel pump, starter motor, top box for tx, some tools/spares, a long leaded clothes peg glow plug connector and two spikes for model retention, you are in heaven.
Don't forget the rag.
For a diesel, just a converted squirty oil can for the fuel, your tx and a rag.
Ammo box and ten batteries.....
Slope soarers on the other hand 😎
Off to see the "joy of deisel"
thread .
Ps, long glow leads and starter motor leads trailing backwards from the prop whilst making thier way to the *service trolley*.....never had an entanglement or even come close to one.
Luck ? No. Safety first, yes.
The only time I am in front of a *running prop/engine* is when the electric starter ( or stick ) is used.
Everything else is done from behind. Electric powered, ditto...
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Some now old car engine con rods had a swastika cast in, Austin 7 maybe, thats the side valve rwd one. It was said to be for *good luck*...it was the swastika adopted by the nazi party which is the other way round to the one seen on that ww1 bi plane.
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A 5CC version of the Mills 1.3cc Diesel
in IC Engines
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Never be afraid to have a go, as long as you don't injure yourself in the process...
It will be a rewarding achievement and a good learning curve.