David Mayne 2

May  I follow on with my problem also a Pretty and possible Esc problem!   Its been fine until recently but now has developed a fault whereas in down stick on throttle causes the motor to intermittantly start and then props fold properly   - every 2-3 seconds.   Is this a definite Esc fault or is something else possible?   I've enen tried putting full down trim plus switch on with less than full down stick with no difference.   If its the ESC, rather than replace a brushed esc,  i think it would be better to put a brushless up front with new esc, but which to choose to run happily on 2s lipo plus existing prop.  Any ideas?

Hi Christian I am a returning Mode1 flyer which means that I follow what is refered to as a split stick mode, eminates from the old reed sets but means you control elevator with left thumb and ailerons with right thumb( as well as throttle).  Most of my club fly mode 2 ie single stick on the right hand.   But I am left handed so if i wished to fly that way I would use mode 3.   Luckily my best mate flys mode 1 regularly and this is the important bit because you should ensure you fly in a mode that at least some of you club members fly ( preferably the more skilled ones) as there are or could be times when you need to get somebody else to fly the model.  If you are not "practiced" on any mode it would be best to learn from a skilled fellow club member and set your mode accordingly. Sounds like you have a Mode 1 transmitter but springs and ratchets can be altered on most sets(if you know what you are doing). Best to go with the majority of your new club which can vary from club to club. Hope this helps- Regards 

Yes please!!

I fancy this one! regards David

Yes please, its a great prize. David

John, I have to sympathise with you as I have a poly pro balancer and was aware they had changed their battery supplier and had different leads.   David Ashby did a good article in the August RCME which covered the 4 known types of balance connectors then but Overtec do not state what their new ones are,  but offer a new balancer.  I got my new ones elsewhere (RCM Direct) as they do cheap conversion leads - as do brc models.  Good info on both websites! Maybe you will be able to work out  what the new ones are   and get suitable  conversion leads.  Would be nice if all the retailers published the required information.  Overtec do a conversion lead but no information apart from pin spacing.    They have lost my custom!   Good luck!   Regards

Well, thanks guys, I have now got the mag - nearly missed it!   Re Bertie, its obvious that the Editor had a space to fill.  Hopefully that won't happen again as I lost interest after the second para and realised there was nothing practical in the article.   By the way we have plenty of comedians at the field, thats part of belonging to a club, and a bit of fun is good if done properly. But seriously how about doing an article on the various ways of dealing with decals in kits and home made.  Always been a bit weak on this.   Should fit a page!! Regards to all

I'm missing the plot here, was Bertie in the latest edition, cos I missed it. (or haven't I bought it yet?)  However, reading the entertaining discussion, I realised that there is one item that needs to go in the mag,   and that is "stickers". When I last did aeromodelling, we had a choice of water transfers (flimsy) or plastic stickers that you just peeled off. And it was obvious.     But given my recent efforts its hard to figure which is which in an artf  box( just to get me going again!)  so maybe there are some other sorts (and I have wrecked a few!).   Last lot was like fablon and you had to cut them out! How do you tell what is what and can Bertie advise me? Regards

 Now that I have my leads, I can understand what a lot of the diy solutions meant.   These leads from RCM Direct purely convert the lipo end of the lead so say 3 wires to each plug for each lead, 4and 5 etc for the different cell count. So I presume that the original leads must be used (with existing shorted terminals so as not to confuse the balancer) - bearing in mind that this unit sends out directly to an enerland socket wired for 4cells. Interestingly both sockets are 2mm spacing, its only the plastic that makes them "special".    Overtec did eventually reply with a "No - please buy the new smart balancer which provides all the leads for 2mm and 2.5mm sockets"   Didn't mention what sockets they mean though, but I suspect this unit is as per David's article. Think I will stick for now and maybe when I build up my stock of batteries, I will treat myself to a new all purpose charger/balancer unit, so that I can charge more than one lipo at a time.  Seems they all take about an hour to fully charge so you would need 5 batts to keep on top of them at the field but then the SLA will give out so number of batts more important but would be useful at home.  At least I have 5 now, but 2 of those are 2S and I wont be buying anymore as they limit the type of plane - bad choice really but I started with an  ARTF with provided speed 600. Thanks to all David Mayne2

yes, i remember reading this, can you remember what edition was it?   The rcforum had nothing but praise for response but mine is very sloppy. sorry guys straying from the point! regards

Just for info a 9*6 SF prop on the front of the Ultrafly Extra 300 with the optional brushless motor but still geared  made 8400rpm and 190Watts on  a 3s. What a difference. This equates to 160 W/lb.    It will definitely fly - even if its vertical!   but I dont think I am ready for it yet.    Still trying to sort out the floppy ailerons, hence back to the cpu! regards david

hi david, i kinda knew that bit, it was the loss of power that surprised me. It turns out my original testing method is suspect, as I have redone the tests on both props (now I have them), see below: GWS 9*4.7 SF     70W  6100rpm  at 6v GWS 9*5 E          60W  6400rpm   at  6.2V   ( the Tornado prop! - found the markings in the daylight! And was able to use revcounter!  (only ever got 3000rpm before!) The original test was probably taken immediately bell motor started before 2s lipo settled down. Its surprising that 2100  Poly pro 2s at 7.2 drops to 6V so quickly (recently topped up!).  But little used so maybe I should run a few cycles through them? Still this gives me a range of 74 to 80 Watts per lb so should be ok (on SharkE - 13oz). Both props are orange flexible plastic, but SF is paddle shaped and E prop is normal slim shape.  SF seems to be grabbing slightly more air (bigger blade) and results  now seem consistant. Interestingly I also tested my speed 600 brushed on a 8*4.5 Folding prop fitted to easy pigeon and this gave 110W  8400rpm at 6V  and the 2s was slightly warm to touch after 20secs or so.   Only gives 48W/lb  but it is a glider really.    Waiting for a calm day to try them in the air!  And must get the other models built to suit 200/250/400w motors that I have bought.  House repairs and family keep getting in the way! Regards David

If there are any electric  types out there, could they explain the difference between "normal" electric props and the slowfly ones?  Due to lack of a suitable prop (gws 9*4.7 SF) in the local model shop, I brought some Tornado 9*5 E.  Result power input dropped from 80W on a 2s to 60W, although it seemed to have more thrust (subjective).  Haven't tried flying with it as power could be marginal.  Ordered some gws types on the www, as the local model shop doesn't seem to well organised. Als didnt have any either! Can anyone explain? regards

Just to correct some earlier errors the lipos I have ordered is XH type (fairly common) and with luck the converter leads should be ok. I noticed that David uses the EQ-5  which also has Enerland output and converter leads are available.   It was interesting to reread Davids article as the "new" Tornado smart balancer seems a good versatile kit   which is now priced t £25.   This has a dedicated output socket, and then used leads with enerland and 2mm and 2.5mm plugs to couple to other battery types, as David explained,  whereas my balancer leads runs direct to a 4s enerland. 2s and 3s leads effectively short out leads to give correct cell count.     I have the feeeling that charging at up to 5 amps is achieved by the two outer leads (bit small!) and the feed back via the others is used to balance the cells.  I would be interested if there are any knowledgeable types who can explain the workings? I also spotted some leads for the EQ-5  where the shorting out seems to occur at either end of the cell count - am i right?    And whats this about?   Hate not knowing what I am using. Regards to all

Thanks to all for responding,  I think i have sorted out my "short term" requirements as RCM Direct have answered the call and told me that my unit has what Sangeel calls Hyperon/ polyquest connectors and he has converter leads to the Hi Power batts that he sells (which I think are XT type - must make notes when I visit the various websites!), so I have taken the plunge and bought some 20C 3s lipos as well (which I try to run at about 10C for long life).  I'll report back if any more info is supplied. Most other suppliers only seem to offer converter leads from their old lipos to their new lipos,  sometimes with plug type info but few seem to cover the Enerland type.  I like to see it in writing as the verbal word can be unreliable (already been caught by this!) Having had a closer look at my present balancer, the leads to 3s and 2s are dealt with by apparently shorting out the output for the cells that are not there! (My balancer goes up to 4s only). It must be clever electronics in the unit.  Of course they only provide instructions to use (basically plug it in!)but no diagrams or details on what it is doing. Of course the diy approach works if you have the right plugs - Enerland plus the new type to start with,  at least the new set of leads will give me a clue.  Remember I am new at this!   Maybe as i build up my sets of lipos I can justify extra electronic kit-- but I need to get out there, building and flying more!! Regards to all