Jump to content

Edgeflyer

Members
  • Posts

    400
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Edgeflyer

  1. Hi I have 2 old Acrowot airframes that I'm thinking of restoring to get at least one decent model. One was much more fuel soaked than the other and needed lots of new parts grafted in which has increased the weight. Does anyone have a similar fuselage to tell me what weight I need to aim for? This one if I proceed will get an electric setup.

    The other one once stripped of all covering is pretty good and only needs minimal work mainly around the wing seat. This one will get a Laser 70.

  2. Thanks yes that's where I downloaded the update studio. I've tried it on windows 10 and 11 pcs with the same result... It gets as far as applying the file to the tx then stops. Obviously the USB comms are OK as it identifies the tx type. The screen image of the failure is here

    IMG_20240419_170531.jpg

  3. I have a problem with my Mz24. I downloaded the latest GR firmware update software and it downloads the latest file but can't apply it through usb to the tx. Windows 10 seems to have the come port open but the bootloader does not open so the firmware does not complete. Any ideas? I'd like to update to 5he Mz24 Pro firmware but not sure if it's possible? 

  4. Yes There was a little lifting of film edges so I covered that area in more durable silver gloss text and painted the inner engine bay with silver solarlac to be extra fuel proof. I probably have the engine mounts ready to install. 

  5. This is a ball joint with a grub screw to lock it to a 3mm rod. I need to buy similar but can't work out what it's called or who sells them. The one I need has the normal ball joint at the other end set at right angles to the locking ball joints axis. The 2 joints are usually in 2 parts joined by a threaded rod. Any help would be appreciated!

    IMG_20240331_100231.jpg

  6. Ok good tip and worth trying on a test piece.

    I checked my paint stock and have solarlac in white black yellow and silver in 110ml tins plus 3 tins prymol and 1 clear coat ( price labels £3.50 ) so I may be able to use these. Wish I had red! Found only violet and heather in stock. Not most popular colours!

  7. 11 hours ago, PatMc said:

    Solartex doesn't need any extra glue to stick to itself but it's best to use the lowest temp that activates the adhesive or it will distort the edge of the overlaying fabric. 

     

    Some examples below of vintage models covered in Solartex with no paint used & except for the letters on the Jnr 60 all other decor is from Solartex scraps cut by hand & carefully applied at relatively low temp.

    The Jnr 60 was about 16 years old when the pic was taken in 2002, it's since been refurbed, recovered in a different scheme & converted to electric.

    The Robot was also originally ic powered but later electrocuted.

    In third pic because of a wing warping problem the Deacon wings are "blushing" as they had recently been given a coat of dope in dampish conditions.

     

    1957453954_Circa2002_b.thumb.jpg.98b935cabf400cf88aba4a77764bb579.jpg

     

    20_pair.thumb.jpg.eaf8537cf1d71de891cadcdbd25fced7.jpg

     

    1473638992_BlushingDeacon_2.thumb.jpg.7875d88a8f3c3cc46db4242fdada338f.jpg   

    Any way to remove blushing? I have a wots wot nylon and dope covering which is a bit bushy. I now use anti bloom thinners which help a bit.

  8. I'm wanting to paint Solartex. The basic colour is white. What's the best type of paint for brushing for a masked area? It will need to be fuel proof. I'm looking at coloured cellulose dope, enamel or acrylic possibly with a clear polyurethane fuel proofed. I also need to be able to get Solartex to adhere to itself. Is it best to apply an extra heat sensitive glue?

×
×
  • Create New...