Snaba

Hi all. Just wondering how many of your got the plane in the air this season? At least here in germany even the ducks walk these day and spit would probably look kind of kinky with skiis. I got a bit stuck with mine after covering the whole plane with Oracover, was not really happy about the result and am planning to strip it down and replace with glass. Also, as Jim here I'd love to get a good tip how to best make nice exhausts! John, maybe you..?

John, looks fantastic! how did you make the panel lines/text? Your source for them?   Get it to the sky and report!

John, check this out, they have new props that might help to solve your problem:   http://www.ramoser.de/home_e/varioprop_e/varioprop_e.html   I have one 3-blade setup for my Turbo-raven and its really great to be able to fine tune your system with pitch!

John, according to AMA Insider 2006 your wattage should be enough for mild aerobatics:   http://www.modelaircraft.org/insider/06_03/05.html   TN designed the plane to fly with a .61 engine, an OS .61 has 1.8 HP=1342 w. In this respect you may be under powered. Well, how about trying a 4-blade prop for more pull?

John, this is indeed a bit delicate job as 1.5 balsa breaks easily if it is not wet enough. Well, this is how I did it. First, I took the shape of the top part of the fairing from the drawings and cut the balsa to the shape. Then I made the inside of the fairing wet with spray while protecting the first few mm with tape. I then removed the tape and glued the top part of the fairing to the fuse with CA and activator pen (I had marked the position beforehand), by this time te balsa should already have started to bend out to make the glueing really easy. Then, I took the cardboard roll from inside of a used toilet paper roll aund used this to make the curvature. Using the roll you see when the pressure is getting too much before the balsa breaks. Pay attention to have left the balsa sheet so that you have a surplus of it. When I was happy with the curvature I marked the position to the underside of the sheet with pen. Then I applied plenty of CA to the gap between the ply and balsa, used the roll again to set the fairing to the premarked position and sprayed the whole join with activator. I started the gluing from the back part of the of the ply.You then make the other side and mark the curvature so that it is similar to the first side. Then you just cut off the rest and you're done!Edited By Snaba on 15/05/2010 18:15:44

Jim, I tried this with my CAP232. The result was rather unsatisfactory and that trick made CAP quite unpredictable. Well, with that wingload CAP was such a peach to land anyway, so I just dropped the idea. Maybe this would work better with a scale model, though...   Main reason why flaps have turned out to be useful is that the plane is a bit on a heavy side and you need high speed to produce enough lift, as seen this can be a problem in landings. By having flaps you change the airfoil thicker at the root of the wing, which is anyway responsible of producing most of the lift. Thus, here having even little flaps produces more uplift with less speed. This being the case I can not directly imagine how flaperons would really help in producing a change in the airfoil by a) being at the tips of the wing where the lift in total is not as much as at the root of the wing, and b) being actually pretty small. But, hey, why don't you try this and let us know?

Sounds very familiar. Did you use special flap hinges or mount the flaps to the ribs with bolts, like I did?

Paul, how did you make the flaps?Edited By Snaba on 06/05/2010 17:12:39

Paul, I'm really glad to hear this as I've built the flaps from the beginning...   John, the slop from Unitract retracks have a screw that allows you to fix the down position to no slop, for the upü position I glued a piece of soft rubber between the mount and oleo, now they sit nicely. For the retract servo I found a suitable big round servo plate I installed to my Graupner 667 servo, this plate has enough dimension for any kind of installations. Maybe this works for you as well.Edited By Snaba on 06/05/2010 09:18:13

Jim, don't worry about a delay, from very recent experience (my son is 2.5) I can tell that the moments when you're not needed and can go to work on your built are very, very enjoyable! Just you, old classic rock or jazz from your local station, a glass of good red wine and all those little problems on the way to a great flying machine!   Well, I'm now at stage where I have to make the u/c work. I noted it is a hard task to manage all through a small servo-sized hole on the upper side of the wing and first I couldn't figure how on earth to connect the u/c pushrods to the servo plate. Finally, I got the idea how to do it so that I will only have a hole for a screw driver at the down side of the wing. I'm just curious: how did you guys solve this?

Thanks, maybe my occupation as a brain scientist has something to do wiht that. Anyway, can I cite you next time when I get my publication back from review process with a comment 'should be read by a native speaker'....?   I checked the book and with a price tag of €116 the decission was quickly done: not for me before x-mas. The Griffon book one can get with €20 at Amazon but if that is good don't know..

Well, I think I don't lose anything by staying loyal to Oracover, sort of got used to that stuff over the years. I just googled and found the web site where they have these books you mentioned, but there are quite a few of them. What is the exact title of the book, or even better with ISBN number? I think this could be interesting also besides of the color schemes?   I'm a Finn living in Frankfurt. Great place for a foreigner!Edited By Snaba on 01/05/2010 16:22:29