Sabre Flyer

Hi Martin, I'm afraid I assumed that it would be either because the efficiency of the mask would be impaired or because of bacterial issues and so I did not enquire further once receiving an affirmation that the mask should be replaced after 28 days. He also said that it should be replaced before the 28 days if there was any sign of clogging or any smell detected. I was clear about my hobby use being infrequent and relatively little compared to industrial use or many home improvement projects. The mask was working perfectly when I reluctantly binned it. A few years back I had a different mask and kept it in a sealed plastic container. I used it after around a year of it doing nothing and immediately came down with a nasty chest infection. Coincidence it may have been but it is the reason I am taking the 3M instructions very seriously. Can you remember which model of mask you have? Does it have replaceable filters?

Hi all, I prefer to use a face mask when sanding and for painting. I have recently used a disposable 3m half face mask which was excellent but when reading all the fine print which comes with the mask it states that it is only good for 28 days. As the mask varies in price from £16 - 20 and I may only need a mask for three or four days a month then it is not ideal. I phoned 3m who were helpful but the solution was only a £2-£3 saving and so still £ 156 a year if I want to build a bit throughout the year. I have tried the 'basic' dust masks you can get in packs in B&Q and the like but have found them inadequate for my needs. I used to have a mask from Machine Mart which had filters that lasted a lot longer and you could get replacement filters for a reasonable price but after an internet search I have failed to find anything suitable. Do you have a mask or masks you can recommend?

Steady on chaps, all those great hints and tips are making it difficult to not give paint a go! Silver Wolf - that looks a good finish but I will take your word for it and take it as another vote for paint. Forgotten about B&Q tester paints, are they good on text?

Thanks for the replies. I am still undecided but there is a nagging voice saying I should try to paint. I will have a look into it for a bit. At least I know there are some good quality decals if I decide to go that route. I was thinking I would use Humbrol acrylics on the tex?

I am building a WW1 type with Solartex covering and was thinking the roundals lettering etc. I know decals have come a long way in terms of quality recently going by the foamies I have had and wondered if there are good quality decals that look the part available for larger airframes? Or should I go the paint route? I have had some success painting on to text but did find it difficult and relatively expensive. Will go electric so not fuel proofing. Any thoughts to help me decide are gratefully received

Hi Richard, congrats on your maiden and sorry to hear of the prang on landing. Hopefully it is not so big a repair job though. Was it the sensitive elevator that caused the tip on landing or did you get a sense of it being prone to tip stall? Did the c of g feel good?

Darn that looks good, Richard. The colours on the nacelles/ nose seem to match well and looks a nice matt finish.

Thanks Richard, that is very useful info. I look forward to seeing how your build goes.

I like the look and size of this one. I can't find a manual anywhere and I would like to know what they recommend as the electric set up. I will be most grateful if you could let me this and if the lipo/ lipo go in the nacelles or in the fuselage. Many thanks

Hi All, The next model in my fleet to be converted to electric is the Seagull Sea Fury. I was intending to be flying as much as poss these summer months but the weather prediction is for another week of wind and rain and so I thought I may as well get on with it! I have read the threads and am inspired by the successful and beautiful examples created although this was some time ago now. There was use of A123 cells ( still available?). I would like to use lipos 6s 5000 (or 6s 3300 if possible). I was wandering which motor people used? The link does not work anymore. I have a Hacker A50 16s V2 on the shelf but this seems a bit on the lower edge? Specs are: 66 inch span, 824 sq inch area 10 lbs 2 ounces with fourstroke etc ready to fly. I am also wondering about where to put a hatch; not sure how easy it will be to cut in the glass fibre cowl? Many thanks for replies.

Hi All, Finally got round to test flying the Magnatilla and so I thought I would report back. The motor I went for was the PPower I mentioned in a previous post. It was the dimensions given on the website and so was a perfect fit inside the cowl. Weight wise I calculated it would be good and once I had everything installed this was the case. On the ground the Turnigy watt meter showed 47 amps draw, 700 plus watts using a 13x5 wood prop. The test flight was on a windless day (after weeks of really windy weather) and the Maggie cruised on 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I am guessing this will be probably half on a normal flying day with a breeze. Landed after 5 mins and the 5s 3300 was showing 60% so should be plenty of flying time with these packs. Compared to the i.c. set up I needed to add a boot full of right rudder and down elevator. This I was expecting and have added a couple of degrees of down and right thrust for the next flight. Once trimmed for cruising, the Magnatilla was an absolute delight to fly and it was great to see it in the air again.

Hi all, I have a HK blue series esc 60amp and it has only about 21/2 inch wires from esc to go to battery. It would be ideal if I could lengthen these by about 6 inches but I have read that this is a 'no no'. Is it ok to go ahead and lengthen the wires? Many thanks.

Thanks for your replies. Yes, having shopped around on the net I can see there are probably cheaper options but I am having problems finding something of the correct length. I'll give it a bit more research to see if I can find something to suit. Weight wise this would be a good match once the 5s batt is in place. Thanks again for your ideas.

Hi all, Thought I would update. I decided to make this the next project on the 'to do' list and removed the cowl, four stroke engine, fuel tank etc. Having measured up I then set about finding a motor that fitted the specs arrived at in this discussion but that would also fit in the cowl. I found the Purple power 5055-595 which should be a perfect fit once I have put a new bulkhead over where the recess for the f/stroke was. Specs: 595 kv 58amp weight 303 grams prop 13x5 wood ( recommended size) I am thinking I may go with this combo from 4max? I would fit a 60 amp speed controller? Should I run the four futaba 3001 servos off the 5amp bec? Many thanks for your ideas on this.

Thanks all for your replies, they all help. I appreciate having a range of ideas/info to help me choose. I will think things over and report back on how things work out. Patmc, your Maggie looks great!

Hi Dwain Dibley, thanks for the suggestion, I would like to try to find something that will work with the 5s 3300 packs I have first but am interested in which make of motor you used?

Hi all Many thanks for your replies which are much appreciated. The model weighs 6lb including a four stroke engine and empty fuel tank. Therefore around 5lbs without the engine/fuel tank should be about right. So 2721 grams. I have now found some data for the motors: kv 420 18.5v 15x8 prop (2650g thrust) = 44 amps or 14x10 prop (315g thrust) = 40amp kv 550 18.5v 12x6 prop 2450g (thrust)= 36.5 amp kv 670 12x8 no other data If I go for the 420kv then I can use the 14x10 prop and get around 10 mins flight time at approx at half throttle? ( about 7 mins is ok for me usually) Does this sound right? I have a 12 " prop on at the moment and there is plenty room for up to a 15 " prop. Many thanks for any comments/advice

Hi All, I am thinking of converting my Magnatilla and would like to use 5s 3300ma lipos as I already have several packs. I thought I might use one of the Turnigy easy match 46 motors but I am not sure which kv version to choose or if I will get reasonable flight times with a 3300 pack? The options are: 420, 550 or 670kv Or if you have other recommendations for a set up that will work with these lipos then I would be most grateful. Many thanks

I have an electric conversion in mind but access to the battery is a problem. I know people were using A123 cells to overcome this in the past. Is anyone still using these? Are they still a good option? Where could I get good cells from? Any comments/advice greatly received, Many Thanks.

I have developed an allergy to epoxy and cyano fumes. i have a half finished kit to build and need an alternative to epoxy glue for the usual vibration areas etc. (attaching horizontal stabs etc on a 120fs powered plane). Hoping someone has some suggestions? I shall try covering myself from head to toe, use face mask, gloves etc. but I will need to use outdoors and the weather is not kind so I need a better solution. It's rather annoying for a lifetime builder so any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks, that's great.

Hi, Can you tell me if you will be doing a report of the F3a World Cup event and which month it will be published?   Many thanks.

1. Ajay Models   2. RCWorld   3. Black Horse Extra 300s 60-90 size   4.Horizon Hobbies    

Which would you recommend for DB sport and scale Pup? Flair? Mick Reeves ( I know where I can get a pair at the same price as the Flair) or something else?   Look forward to your suggestions.   Thanks

Hi, I'm looking for advice on the engine installation on a Magnatilla. I've decided to finish off my Magnatilla...started about 10 years ago! It is an earlier kit that shows the engine mounted upright  and optional cut outs in the cowl (although these are quite small) for cooling. I'm going to fit a TT54 fs and I'm looking for advice on whether the upright position is ok or to go sidewinder. Also anyone experience cooling probs with the standard installation?  Cheers