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Glenn Philbrick

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Everything posted by Glenn Philbrick

  1. Glenn Philbrick
    This will probably cause a ruction. If the prop driver is on a taper( I'm not sure on the SC) put SMALL amount of aluminium kitchen foil round the crank and then carefully replace the prop driver, one wrap will probably be enough. If this does not help then you may have to replave both bearing as the rear bearing takes more of the thrust.        
  2. Glenn Philbrick
    Looks good Pete. Mine is all masked up now so if the snow does not clear enough for me to fly tomorrow I have date with some spray cans. The colour scheme that I will use looks very much like yours I just hope it will fly OK.   Glenn.
  3. Glenn Philbrick
    Hi Guys.   At the final stages now, Delta I would have thought that painting straight onto wood will add weight and not too good a finish. As I wrote I have used poly c with tissue, then another two coats of Poly c well rubbed down, it is now primed with Halfords Plastic primer surfacer and I will rub this off until I can see that most of it has gone just filling the pin holes and hiding any blemishes. I am then looking to spray it with Humbrol enamel spray can if I can get the right colours. Sky underside, sea grey and sea green camoflage on top with invasion stripes on the underside only to help with a bit of visability. Delta I fly from North Kent but it will be a good couple of weeks yet before I test fly it. I am using two 2250mah lipos in the nose and hope that I can get the CG right without too much lead. I'm using two 300w motors and must admit there is plenty of grunt when Ive bench run them.   Regards,   Glenn
  4. Glenn Philbrick
    All construction finished, now at the stage that I like the least, that is painting. I've covered the model using tissue and Poly c and that has gone well. I have now sprayed primer on it and need to rub this down filling in any pot holes before the final paint job is applied. I've found some decals for a mosquito on the pyramid site so will be ordering those soon, then just wait for some decent weather when our strip is not frozen and away we go. Will post a pic on here before the maiden flight just in case.   Glenn
  5. Glenn Philbrick
     Yes a bit more progress, I have fixed the bottom plastic fusalage skin but not without problems, I think I cut mine a little bit too much with the end result that in order to get it to fit I distorted the tailplane mounting so that it was no longer parrallel with the wing, but I've now sorted this. I am surprised how little overlap there is to attach the plastic to the balsa and ply sides and this looks like it could be  weekness with a hard landing so I might follow the lead from the forum on rcgroups and run some lightwieght glass to overlap these joints. I think that I will mount the rx on the wing so that the only connection I will need to make is the Y lead for the ESPs. I did think about rudder but still consious about the final wieght. I skined the tailplane, elevator and fin using lightwieght tissue and Poly-c and these have come up well. I now face fitting the upper fusalage moulding over the wing which should be Ok if taken slowly, must not cut too much off this time. Below is the link to the rcgroups thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=424808   Regards,   Glenn.
  6. Glenn Philbrick
    Got round to doing a bit more on the Mossie. The wiring took quite a lot of thinking about and you can see that I have not fitted the bottom to the fusalage at this stage. I thought it best to wait to see how the wiring runs turned out.I've used a 35 reciever to test with but will use Spectrum 2.4. All tested out OK without any magic smoke which was a relief. Motors are running in opposite directions so am waiting for  a pusher prop, but the motor tested with the tractor had plenty of pull so I hopefull that there will be enough power. I had to make some leads up so I could run both lipos in parallel and then off to two ESC. The esc run is via a Y lead to the throttle channel. I intend to run power from both ESC as  they are parallel the voltage should be Ok. I've got spinners for the two blade props but cannot find small ones for three blades, any ideas? Has any body tried to make their own out of foam or something like? I'm thinking of finishing the model using poly c and tissue then acrilic paints. I'm testing the poly c on some oddments of plastic to see how it reacts. Do you think you can spray car primer onto the plastic parts without them becomming damaged?
  7. Glenn Philbrick

    Glenn Philbrick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  8. Glenn Philbrick

    Glenn Philbrick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  9. Glenn Philbrick
      A couple of pics to update the build. I modified the battery box so that I can get two 2200 lipos side by side, it also gives me about 2" movement to help balance the model later on,  i will have to take the wing off to change them. Also shown are the holes in the radiator formers so that I can run the power and ESC wires through them and finally the complete nacelle. Hows everybody else getting on?   Glenn
  10. Glenn Philbrick

    Glenn Philbrick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  11. Glenn Philbrick

    Glenn Philbrick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  12. Glenn Philbrick

    Glenn Philbrick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  13. Glenn Philbrick
    Ok I've tried to insert some pics and it looks like it has worked. These show the mods I have made to the nacelles in order to mount brushless motors. So far so good, I should have made the dowels a bit longer as they only just protrude throught the hole. As a result of what Paul said you can see the cooling holes that I have made at each side, I have also made outlets at the inside rear of the nacelle to let the air out. I have removed material from the front of the exhausts only, to act as cooling ducts and will mount them over the holes in the lower half. They may not be in the correct position for scale appearance , but never mind. I have also decided against three blade props at present, two are more efficient and it sounds like I might need all the power I can get.     Glenn
  14. Glenn Philbrick

    Glenn Philbrick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  15. Glenn Philbrick

    Glenn Philbrick posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. Glenn Philbrick
    I am also looking to extend a shaft on a BRC motor (2217-8T) but on this one the shaft is also held by two grub screws so I do not see the need for the circlip or wheel collet, unless you know different.   Glenn
  17. Glenn Philbrick
    Thanks Paul.   I hope to get mine to around the 3lb mark excluding cells. Did you have  any problems getting the Cof G correct and what did you use to finish the model with. I was thinking of Poly C and tissue for the balsa parts but just straight primer for the plastic bits. In the instructions it says not to use polyfilla to fill inthe seams but I have always used polyfilla light on my balsa models to good effect, have you any comments on this?   Glenn
  18. Glenn Philbrick
    Not thinking of using u/c. Don't forget that a three blade prop is smaller in diam than the equivalent two blade. I always belly land my sea fury with an 8" prop and have never broken one yet. I think two lipos at 180grms each are still lighter than the nicad pack and with two x 200W of power then there should be enough go. However I will try to build it as light as poss. My biggest problem may be if  I have to add weight to get the balance right, which I shall do everything to avoid. Once I get near to having the motors installed I will try to balance the model before finshing the final stages that way if I have to modify anything I can still do it, without resorting to butchery   Glenn
  19. Glenn Philbrick
    I will use BRC 2217-8T 1100kv 200W motors and 33A esc, which is what they recommended. I already use this set up in a small seafury and it works very well. I will try 8 x 4 three blade props, one pusher and one tractor as I posted before. I am going to use two 2200 lipos which should give me about 6-7 mins flying without stressing the batteries. The the batteries have not arrived yet so I have put off modifying the battery box untill they do. I am thinking that I may have to load them by removing the wing to slide them in as the nose ring looks to be too small. However the motors have arrived so I started to build the nacelles. I have not yet joined my wings which I found helped with sorting the nacelles out. The one issue that I have to overcome in that the wooden motor mount is quite small and would be very flimsy if I cut cooling slots into it so I have decided to make a larger mount that will be further back in the nacelle, this should also help with cooling as well. Thinking ahead I am also wondering how to make some spinners, any ideas? Incidently I do not think that cooling the esc will be an issue with this set up  as it should only pull about 15 A
  20. Glenn Philbrick
    Not two props on each motor, one on each but running in opposite directions. This apparently reduces any torque effects from twins.  It means one prop will have to be a pusher but running in the wrong direction so it pulls. I think !   Glenn
  21. Glenn Philbrick
    Looks good. You are a bit ahead of me, so your pics are better than the instructions. I'm waiting for some poor weather as I am too busy flying to get back building at present. Ive definitely decided to use two 2200 lipo packs so will modify the battery box to take them, the guys at BRC have recommended a power train to use and I intend to use three blade props running in opposite directions. What power system are you intending to use?   Glenn
  22. Glenn Philbrick
    I've have just replaced the valve springs on my OS 91. If you put a small block of balsa under the head so that it fits within the dome you can press down on the valve collets by resting it all on your bench or suitable surface that way you can push down quite hard. You may even need to use something just to free the collar off as it can get quite tight but once the taper is loosened then you should not have a problem. Refitting them is quite easy but watch out those collets are very small and can go ping. This is the second time my OS has broken springs each time it was the exhaust, I think it is over revving in a dive so now have fitted a larger pitch prop.   Glenn
  23. Glenn Philbrick
    I've have just replaced the valve springs on my OS 91. If you put a small block of balsa under the head so that it fits within the dome you can press down on the valve collets by resting it all on your bench or suitable surface that way you can push down quite hard. You may even need to use something just to free the collar off as it can get quite tight but once the taper is loosened then you should not have a problem. Refitting them is quite easy but watch out those collets are very small and can go ping. This is the second time my OS has broken springs each time it was the exhaust, I think it is over revving in a dive so now have fitted a larger pitch prop.   Glenn
  24. Glenn Philbrick
    Not sure about the C of G but will cross that bridge later. After a chat with BRC I've decided to modify the battery box so that I can fit two 2200 3S lipos, so maybe that might help with the C of G as well. The underside of the Mossie is curved. The motor mount sticks directly onto the plastic of the nacells and looks a bit flimsy to me would epoxy be the correct adhesive to use?   Glenn
  25. Glenn Philbrick
    Thanks for the help Eric, I will use two speedos as you suggest. i am thinking that I might modify the battery box so that I can fit two 2200 3S lipos as I have quite a few of this size and it would save me from having  to buy a larger capacity lipo just for this one model. I can see what Mark means about spending hours looking at the model as it not an easy build it takes time to sort out how everything goes together. The plastic bits are a bit daunting and I can see getting a decent join will be difficult. I have completed the wings, the servo wire will go through the wing but the motor wires will go through the radiators. I have read somewhere that you have to be carefull with either the wire length to the speedos or motor but cannot remember the details.   Glenn
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