Nick Rigg

I assume that the new sets have been configured so that they cannot be reset if you switch them off in less than 5 secs of switch on? This was the advice given on the sticker issued after the recent lab checks and I feel certain that sooner or later I'll do this by mistake... 

Jim - how long did it take between submitting the form and getting the call from LMS?

I'd like to recommend Foamyjets who specialise in this kind of thing and have always provided me with terrific service...

As I haven't seen it mentioned on this thread so far, please note the announcement explains that if your TX has an 'I' next to the serial numbers there is no need to have it replaced....

As Timbo explains in Electrickery, the weight of your model is also a factor  e.g. my Pulse XT is designed for a 40-46 size IC engine or EP motor equiv. But as the model's AUW including battery is only 5.5lbs, I can get away with 550watts for decent performance

Somewhat off topic, apologies all...but Mark mentioned fine pitch props will give a high static reading but unload less in the air. Presumably this means they will also consume more battery juice once airborne than a higher pitch prop. Just when I thought I was settled on a 13x4 I may have to go back and experiment some more...

You insert the meter between the battery (input) and ESC (output) Then you can check the readings to determine current being drawn, watts produced, battery voltage and the amount of power consumed By switching between different propellor sizes, you can see at a glance whether you're going to fry your motor or ESC, whether you'll have enough power to fly your model the way you want to and probably how long you'll be able to fly for. Bear in mind that this static test will not be exactly the same as when the model is flying, for example in flight the prop 'unloads' and consumes less power

Couldn't S-BEC stand for 'Switching BEC' which is what a UBEC is?

Thanks Guys. I'll try to see if I can get hold of a 12x5 - my usual sources don't have them. Going to 3S would be a non-starter at the mo, too heavily invested in 4S Jetsome - interesting what you said about prop balance (I inferred by this that if it is out of balance it will draw more amps). I was using a TowerPro 12x6 that came with a 3mm hole - I commited the cardinal sin of manually enlarging this to fit my prop shaft and while it felt balanced (plus no real vibrations when running) it probably wasn't.... Maybe a properly balanced 12x6 would be okay? 

Hi all - from what I understood, when you change a prop without wishing to adversely affect the current draw, if you go up in diameter, you need to come down in pitch by the same amount. So, I had an 11x7 prop on my model that drew around 39 amps at WOT, so I thought I'll put on a 12x6 to get more thrust at  less speed. But WOT on this prop was way over the safe limit of my motor ( well over 45 amps) so this is a non starter. Can anyone explain why 12x6 drew so many more amps than 11x7? And as a follow up, what prop size would be more appropriate if I don't just stick with the 11x7?  Cheers, Nick 

D'oh - one of these days I'll get it right

Thanks Bruce - that's really helpful

I have an IMAX B5, it's probably similar but I was confused when I used it for the first time yesterday. I thought I'd try to balance charge a 3s 1300 Lipo so I plugged it in, identified the lipo type and hit go. I set the charge amps at 1.3 as this presumably is 1C for a 1300 mAH battery?? The charger started at 0 mH and started advancing. After about 1 hour it reached 1300 maH and the charge per cell was 4.2 amps. The charge amps had dropped to 0.4 but it didn't stop on its own so I hit the stop button. Should I have left it to stop on its own - I thought it was right at the limit as it was? Also, is it not coincidence that it reached 1300 after 1 hour. What about if (hopefully) it was nowhere near discharged - it shouldn't have needed to go from 0 to 1300. Confused I'm afraid, the instructions were not clear

Limited experience so far Zippy 4s 5000 - seems great value, work fine but yet to be tested in anger Hi-Model 3s 1300 - absolutely no problems 

Sorry if I'm repeating everyone else...but with all the promotional stuff being done by Spektrum/JR, Futaba are looking a little stingy Time to start selling R606s at knock down prices - £25 would be about right or do what Spektrum did

Hi - I noticed a little piece of kit called a 'Daptor' sold by a US company - can be used to convert LIPO chargers to use with M1 cells. Anyone used one of these? 

Hi Timbo - I was wondering if I should be at all upset that I bought a charger recently that isn't compatible with LiFEP04s. In other words, apart from the safety angle, are there any compelling reasons to switch from Lipos?

Such a great plane deserves a good home - mine

Hi there - does this apply to Futaba 2.4g? I intend to use a Turnigy 60a UBEC with 4 standard servos and 4S power. Haven't flown yet but static tests seemed fine

Thanks Timbo - sounds like it would spoil the lines of my ultra sleek Pulse! Besides, I use Deans connectors

Sorry to resurrect this issue again - can anyone remember what Nigel Hawes' solution was as I can't locate my Feb issue

Apologies - it seems I failed to take account of ohm's law in calculating my motor's rpm - it would be nearer 11300 and the wattage then works out at 660 which is closer to what I read (but no cigar) Interestingly, the calculation says a 12 x 6 prop should give 800 watts...

Hi Sean - have you checked this for accuracy? I input diameter of 11, pitch of 7 and rpm of 12580 (motor kv multiplied by voltage?) and got a wattage figure of 910 on the s/sheet. I only measured 515 on my meter. Maybe I need to input more parametres? 

Thanks Eric - having armed the ESC by plugging it all in, I'm wary of nudging the throttle stick be accident - and causing unwanted mayhem as a result. My thought right now is to stretch a rubber band horizontally on the TX and use this to hold down the throttle until I'm ready to fly - maybe others have a better/safer solution

Hi all - is it possible to have a switch that arms the ESC just before you fly? As far as I can see, you need to have everything ready to go, all connections to the RX in place and TX switched on before you connect the battery to the ESC - this is the only way it seems to work correctly. If I use the RX switch after I've connected the battery and ESC it doesn't arm . Also, I read in a US mag about using the throttle cut feature on their (Futaba) TX to arm (and Disarm) the ESC - anyone know about how this works for arming (I can sort of undersatnd the disarming)