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Trevor Crook

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  1. Trevor Crook

    Trevor Crook posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  2. Trevor Crook
    BEB, like you I also enjoy reading around a scale project I'm involved with, even if that "project" is a foamie ARTF! I dug out some old "Scale Models" (MAP mag in the 70s) drawings when building mine, which also inspired me. Despite all the reading I did at the time, I'm enjoying your potted history. Early days yet, but when looking at colour schemes, ones with D-Day stripes or the early identification stripes are a good idea. I find they help with visibility on mine against a variety of skies.
  3. Trevor Crook
    BEB - I was in a bookshop at the weekend and saw an Osprey publication "Typhoon Wings of the Second TAF 1943 - 45". Looks an excellent read and reference source for colour schemes etc. It's on the Osprey website for £7.69, which seems a bargain. I'd have put in a link, but not sure how to do it!
  4. Trevor Crook
    BEB - just thought of a practical advantage with the "car door" version. When I've nosed mine over due to a less than perfect landing, the cannon can dig in and damage the LE. You could model an early variant with the 12(!) Brownings and avoid that risk.
  5. Trevor Crook
    Regarding the thorny power issue, I've had about 30 years experience of I/C flying and 10 years of electric. I ditched I/C about 5 years ago for the following reasons: Noise, oily mess, wear/tear on airframe due to vibration and fuel, occassional dead-stick, occassional starting problems, engine hiding and cooling issues on scale models (my main interest) and the much better flexibility of power and prop selection electric power offers. Of course, you could come up with a similar size list of potential disadvantages with electric, but I made my choice and haven't regretted it. Regarding the character of I/C, I concede that a Tiger Moth puttering around with a 4-stroke under the cowl sounds good, but no single cylinder I/C engine will sound anything like a Sabre or any other WW2 engine. CSB, although I agree that a properly set up I/C engine is reliable, and leccy motors can stop unexpectedly for a variety of reasons, I reckon I see at least 10 I/C dead sticks for each electric one. Anyway, BEBs power choice is down to him, and whichever way he goes I'll follow the build with great interest.
  6. Trevor Crook
    Martin Yes, I need a forklift to install the LiPos! 'Course I meant 90% of the TN model design size, reason explained earlier in thread.
  7. Trevor Crook
    Regarding electrification, my 90% size one houses the 4s lipo ahead of the firewall ok. I've also got 2 NiMH packs, one for the radio and one for the retracts (Mr Paranoid, me!) keeping it company, along with the motor and esc. Bit of a squeeze, but we kept the tail light and only needed a tiny bit of lead. If I remember correctly, the plan does show a (6s) LiPo in front of the firewall.
  8. Trevor Crook
    Good luck BEB, you'll find the build worth it. I was flying mine on Friday, and thoroughly enjoyed it. Mine's a bit different (possibly unique?) though. When the free plan was originally published, it was printed 10% smaller than intended, so came out at about 56" span. This suited the motors, batteries etc I had so my father-in-law kindly built it for me. The moulded spinner and cowl couldn't be used, so he made the cowl and I sourced a commercial spinner that's not quite the right shape. Power is via a 4S 3000 Lipo putting around 600W through a 12x7 prop. The model weighs just under 6lb, and it flies with authority. No vices in the air, but it's a bit tricky to land. It slows up fine, but if it touches down firmly and/or fast, bounces back up, then can stall. I don't know whether its an airframe thing, or whether the sprung Unitract oleos are under damped. It will 3-point if you get it right, then it's not a problem.
  9. Trevor Crook
    You don't mention the Tx, but if it shows the frame rate you should be able to change it - you can on my DX8. Set it to 22ms and all should be well. The Tx sets different frame rates depending on the receiver, which is probably why your other Rx is OK.
  10. Trevor Crook
    Addendum - just watched the video, looks a very nice bit of kit. Voice feature may actually make telemetry useful. If it comes in around £300-£400 it should shake up the opposition. I'll stick with my DX8 for a while yet, though.
  11. Trevor Crook
    I like the phone analogy, Simon. I just had a random skim through the major manufacturer's products, and the vast majority still have a pivoting antenna. Futaba have an integral one in the T6J but I think that's it for their range. I prefer the arrangement on my DX8 to the carbuncle on the 9/18. It may need more careful handling, but is more compact for storage.
  12. Trevor Crook
    Doh! Only bought an 8 earlier this year! Mind you, it does all I want, and I'm not so sure about the fixed, sticky-up aerial - takes up too much space for my field box. I'm sure I can think of more reasons not to want one.
  13. Trevor Crook
    Martyn, I must admit that when it's in the air, yes I do wish the wheels tucked away. However, with my modest skills I found some aspects of the build challenging enough! Making a bay for the noseleg is one problem, as it would go where I've housed the ESC and steering servo. If I'd known how well it was going to fly, I would probably have put in the effort. As it is, I'll try to look at it as a nice flying sport model that happens to look like a Tucano!
  14. Trevor Crook
    I decided to join in the general Tucano interest by providing details of my latest build. I picked up a 55" Chitern Models kit (from the 80s) at a club auction for £15 a couple of years ago. After a protracted build, it was finished earlier this year. Enthusiasm during the build ebbed and flowed as I feared it would be a vicious tip-staller with those tapered wings. For that reason, I didn't try to install retracts. It came out at exactly 5lb, with a 4s 3000mAh power setup giving just over 500W via a 12x7 prop. It was maidened with about 20 degrees of flap for take off, and flew off fine, with very little trim needed. Flaps up, it tracks accurately and responds smoothly and crisply to controls. Best of all, although it will drop a wing if provoked, it's predictable - it doesn't snap out of loops, turns etc. It is fairly nose-heavy, which helps - I won't be changing that! Power isn't quite enough for sustained vertical, but big loops are possible. The flaps give about 80 degrees for landing, which gives a good descent rate with the nose down and a bit of power on, without speed building, so avoids the hazards of having to raise the nose to slow it - just a heave of up to flare it. Chuffed to bits with the model. Here are some pics:
  15. Trevor Crook

    Battery hatch off

    Trevor Crook posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Battery hatch off
  16. Trevor Crook

    Battery hatch on

    Trevor Crook posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Battery hatch on
  17. Trevor Crook

    Full flap

    Trevor Crook posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Full flap
  18. Trevor Crook

    General view

    Trevor Crook posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    General view
  19. Trevor Crook
    Could it be a temperature related fault? I was flying this afternoon and it was very warm - tried to keep my tx in that shade between flights, although they should cope OK. Best get Horizon to look at it. Incidentally, there were at least 2 of us with dx8s, a dx7s, original dx7, and a dx6i. None of had the slightest problem.
  20. Trevor Crook
    I often wonder if the number of posts etc. about Spektrum problems is simply that it is by far the most widely used 2.4 radio make. I say I "wonder" because I doubt you can obtain figures, but in both clubs I am in, there is probably more Spektrum gear than all the other makes combined. Personally I've never had any control issues in 5-odd years of using the brand. I'm a satisfied DX8 user now. Programming is pretty intuitive, but I think when I did the last software upgrade from 2.6 (I think) to 3.0, the sub-trim directions reversed, so they could do better. The OP should go the route he is most comfortable with. All of the major brands work well, best to look at some other Tx's at his LHS and decide whether the expense of changing is worth it. Also consider that any make can go wrong, and then the quality of support really matters, so it's worth researching this, too.
  21. Trevor Crook
    I was there on Sunday but left before Steve's crash. Watched it on Youtube - there was very little time and altitude to apply any corrective measures, and doubtful whether anything could have saved it. Shows the virtue of flying a safe distance from spectators. I thought it was a good show, and endorse everything said about Ali above - top guy! The trade presence was still pretty good, considering the climate. Hats off to Hobbyking for attending, albeit only with samples, not selling. I noticed another stand nearby selling Durafly and other HK items, about 50% more expensive - wonder if they did much trade?
  22. Trevor Crook
    Looks very good, Ross. Neat gear installation, too. Good luck with the maiden, keep us posted.
  23. Trevor Crook
    Lewis used to race R/C cars as a lad, so he'll be familiar with the major orientation issue. With his hand/eye co-ordination and reactions, he'd be a fast learner. His biggest problem would probably be finding the time and location to practise.
  24. Trevor Crook
    Having read CS's post above (welcome back!) I realised that in my earlier post I forgot to mention that all the foam decking and wings were of excellent quality and a perfect fit. The balsa supplied was just right, apart from the tip blocks which were like oak, but at least once carved they are rugged! I just wanted to convey that the degree of prefabrication is far less than a modern laser cut kit. The instructions and plan could be a bit better too, but the same can be said of some modern kits and ARTFs. I still rate the value for money and flying characteristics as excellent.
  25. Trevor Crook
    John, it depends what the "reviewers" are used to. I built a Magician a couple of years ago and it's a very old-school kit, probably unchanged from the 80s. However, it was cheap (around £60 delivered, don't know the current price) and flies brilliantly. They're probably not suited to the inexperienced builder, but I enjoyed buiding mine and converting it to electric power, which is a great success.
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