Trevor Crook
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Everything posted by Trevor Crook
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Ally, the motor you linked to above should be more than adequate - or you could try one of these http://www.giantcod.co.uk/cf2215-1200kv-brushless-outrunner-motor-p-403800.html Sorry if I'm confusing you - I'm sure either would be fine
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Ally The kind of charger I would buy is like the Imax B6 as sold here:http://www.giantcod.co.uk/chargers-c-27.htmlYou can get cheaper and simpler ones, but I would always go for one with a display, so you can see what's happening.The type of connector on servos or ESCs is almost standard these days. I say almost, because they all have the same contact spacing and orentation, but the plastic body can have two types of polarisation. The "Futaba" type has a raised rib down one edge, which matches a slot in your Rx socket. The "JR" type has no raised rib, but two corners are bevelled. This type will still plug into your Rx - just make sure the negative wire (black or brown) is nearest the edge of the Rx.
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Useful info, Frank - not too far from my guesstimate. Ally, Frank has made a good point on the Lipo size - if your fuselage can take a bigger pack, it will give you extra flight time, without too much of a weight or cost penalty. Something I forgot to mention is that the ESC will automatically cut power to the motor when the Lipo gets low, but still power the radio, so you'll still be safe to glide in and land. It's best to time your flight to avoid this, though, which you'll be able to do once you are familiar with the flight time you get for a given battery drain.
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Ally For some reason I didn't see the photo! For that weight, a sub-100W setup should be fine. You can get cheap outrunners known as "bell" motors (because the case looks like a bicycle bell) and one of these should be fine. The prop will be bigger than the Cox one, as it won't be revving as high. So I'll revise the setup to: Brushless bell motor, 10-12A continuous rating15A ESC 1000mAH - 1300mAH 3s Lipo The ESC contains something called a Voltage Regulator, that takes in the Lipo voltage and converts it to 5V for its own electronics and the receiver and servos. You just plug the ESC into the throttle channel, and it feeds the 5V down two of the three wires going to the Rx socket. Hence, nothing is plugged into the Rx battery connector. Nearly forgot, whichever motor you get, you'll need an appropriate prop adaptor. With this set-up, try a 7 x 4 or 8 x 4 prop - it will depend on the motor's kV.
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Ally, welcome to the initially befuddling world of electric flight!You don't say how big your glider is, but a power set-up of 50 - 70 watts per pound of weight will be about right. So let's assume your glider weighs 2lb, you'll want a 100-150 watt setup.A 3-cell lipo should be ok, and makes the sums easy, as you can approximate the voltage to 10V. 10V x 10A will give 100W. I'd recommend going for 150W, which would require 15A. You'll want a 20A ESC to avoid stressing things, and a motor that will deliver 15A continuously (you won't be on full throttle much, so this should be fine). The ESC powers itself and the radio gear from the lipo, you won't need an Rx battery. If you choose a motor that gives 1000-1200 revs/volt (expressed as kV) this should give a sensible prop size of, say, 9 x 4. Unfortunately, the only way to check the current and power is with a wattmeter, which will cost you around £30. Most distributers quote suitable prop sizes for their motors.You should be able to get a well specced lipo charger for around £30. I seem to have gone on a bit, so I'll summarise my guesstimated setup:15A 1000kV brushless outrunner 20A brushless ESC 1500mAH 3s Lipo (20C discharge will be adequate)Online suppliers will have the keenest prices, but as you'll probably need some help, try another shop if you can. Alternatively, specialists like West London Models wouls be able to advise and supply by phone. Good Luck!
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One of the clubs I'm in forbids non-CE marked equipment and 2.4GHz receivers that are a different make to the Tx/Tx module. Spektrum and JR can be mixed.I think there have been some issues with "Orange" receivers and they are worried about the BMFA insurers not covering equipment approved for use in the UK.
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Wise advice, Paul, but Major may be seriously strapped for cash, and may not want to go beyond the Sharkface for now. The Planet solution seems a good one - UK distributor with backup, CE marked etc. I've bought loads of servos, escs, motors and batteries from GC with very few problems, but I get the impression that the backup wouldn't be the same on the RC link as you'd get from a major player.The 35MHz suggestion is a good one, but as Steve said, 2.4 is more electric friendly, and the aerial easier to hide in the little Sharkface.
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Which Radio Would You Buy.....?
Trevor Crook replied to Steve Hargreaves - Moderator's topic in General Radio Discussion
Not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but a feature that (I think) is unique to Spektrum/JR DSM2 and Spektrum DSMX is Modelmatch, which prevents you from using the wrong model memory - a potential model saver. Spektrum also gives ready access to the large range of BNF models, if that's your interest. End of sales pitch from Spektrum user!In our club, most makes are used, with very few problems from any. Multiplex are the only ones to put the Tx display in a sensible place, and have very intuitive programming. As advised throughout this thread, best to get the feel of your shortlist before buying. It's also worth seeing what your friends/fellow club fliers use - if you buy the same there will be plenty of experience and advice available. -
Which Radio Would You Buy.....?
Trevor Crook replied to Steve Hargreaves - Moderator's topic in General Radio Discussion
Something that I don't think has been mentioned is the compatibility between older and newer technology from the same brand. Futaba used to be all FASST, but their low-end systems have started to use a new system with cheaper Rxs, and the two are not compatible. According to the RCM&E review, this FHSS system will be the norm on everything with less than 8 channels, the more expensive sets having FASST. Similarly JR are moving away from the Spektrum based DSM2 to their own (non-compatible) system. Spektrum have been very clever, and have improved their original DSM2 with DSMX, with forward and backward compatibility. -
Flying Facing the Sun!
Trevor Crook replied to Derek Stevenson's topic in Flying Field Reports and Chat
Ski goggles - that's worth trying, I'll try to borrow some to see if they work. As you say, who cares about the look as we're a sartorially challenged breed anyway! -
Flying Facing the Sun!
Trevor Crook replied to Derek Stevenson's topic in Flying Field Reports and Chat
Derek I sympathise with your sun problem, our club has a south facing flight line which we can't do much about. Your situation is slightly different, however. As a committee member for our club, I'll say that the club should be run by the membership, not the committee. If enough people share your opinion, table a proposal at your next AGM that the club moves the pilot area, if possible. During the ensuing debate, it may become clear why it is where it is - as someone said above, there may be a good reason. If there isn't, it can be put to the vote, and the members can decide. -
Yes, the Bullet is on my "to do" list - unlike the Magician I never had one in my glow days, and it's another candidate for a sleek electric nose. I don't think a 3s setup will be enough for that one, though.
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Re. the c of g, my electric version is a bit nose heavy, too - it won't spin. I've added a little lead to the tail, but not enough, so I'll try some more. It's one of the reasons I haven't tried re-propping it for a 4s battery yet. If I was building it again I'd obviously engineer the battary bay to be further back.
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No need to apologise for not liking the mod, Lee - we've all got different tastes, and that rearward canopy does give the model a unique look. In fact, people have said my version looks like a taildragger Gangster. I like it though, and I tell myself it must improve the knife-edge! As for how it was done Andrew, I just made a new half former to sit at the back of the revised cockpit position, reduced the length of the forward top decking, and made new rear decking from material I had to hand. The cockpit moulding is flexible enough to fit the slightly wider top deck. The undercarriage mod is fairly obvious from the photo, the wire goes up into drilled blocks glued to the sides and former. This mod is well worth doing.
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Here are some pics of mine:
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Thanks, Tim. I think I worked it out when I clicked on the "Album" tab. Let's try: This shows the cockpit moved forward Above is my U/C mod - only just noticed my untidy cooling duct! Battery bay - 3000 3s installed, but there's room for a 4s if I want more urge. Head on view showing sleek nose - no glow protrusions like its predecessor in the 80's!
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Right, I'll try my first post with attachments!Ah, it seems I need to create an album somehow. I'll find out how to do that, then try again.
