Nigel Sharp

I'll leave it thanks John. No problem - make mental note to self to double check before hitting submit.

Ah now I see I'm not blind - can't do the eariler ones because they are from the weekend. Hence the 20 min limit. N

Ah this might explain it - I only seem to have Report/Share not an "Edit" option unless I'm really missing something ? and its only to take some duplicate lines out and correct some spellings.

So I'm serving my apprenticeship in glassing. Here are the apprentice pieces. I successfully trimmed the first side of the Rudder and Elevators, then applied second side for this I tried with out using the hair spray - yes that certainly was the cause of the first side not adhering to the edges so I was happy with the outcome. However I liked the stability of cutting using the spray as the second side was a bit tricky - hadn't considered static and as a consequence it was wrapping everywhere except where I wanted... and as a result the edges got a bit messy. So tonight bouyed by the success if the smaller pieces I undertook one underside of the wing. Again I used the hairspray but this time used my template to mask the glass so I only sprayed about 6mm all round. Then using my scalpel cut through the middle of that. The edges are stable and drape nicely now and if I had, had a bit more confidence I think I'd have done both starboard and port bottom a the same time. Happy I didn't bite off more than I could chew. . This photo isn't the best my phone is lacking in camera performance particularly under artificial light. Next post likely to be after I've completed the glassing Ready for primer. Happy chap at the moment but I've a few curves/corners to navigate on the fuselage. I've not figured out how to edit a previous post - there are some grammer errors I'd like to correct. N

Masher, Here is my e-calc calculation output weight here was set at 130 oz circa 8lb. I've weighed the airframe with everything except the glass/paint RX/ESC and it comes in at 7 1/2 Lbs After quite a bit of deliberation I decided on 6S as that gives me the full compliment of power from the motor should I wish to use it. Motor is NTM Propdrive 5050 580kv Note this is for a 14X8 APCE prop but I'm planning/going to be using a 14x7 to start. The orginal used an 11 x 11.5 prop If after flying I decide to drop to 5S battery then I can go upto a 16 x 8 with this motor and still have about 1400 watt but it might push my speed control/motor with too many amps The motor is rated to 90 amp and speed control 120 both in bursts. If my previous setups are the same then the real world is going to be a little less. loaded_dice.pdf

In regard to soggy middle ? For the little effort involved in securing the outer firmly when I have invested lots of time and sometimes money then I will support them properly. These things are mostly plastic and flexible. Even if the outer is secured at each end then by the look of some supports in the photo's you can get deflection of these fixings. If you get high aerodynamic forces on rudder or elevator then that can push the inner back into the outer and a bow happens between the ends its rather like pushing carbon fibre poles into tent pockets true the pole then holds up the tent because the ends are held firm. But take note on our RC models one end is always free to float e.g. the end attached to the wiggly bit. In that case what would happen to the tent? Yes it would collapse. Another example would be an overloaded shelf it bends between the supports and the ends lift a little essentially the distance between the end faces shortens as it makes the chord of the arc. The converse happens if you have a bend in the snake inside your fuslage you apply control force but when flying at high speed like a dive aerodynamic forces take over straightening the snake meaning you lose resolution, worse it doesnt pull out -> but the same thing. So I'll stick to securing the outers. Generally my plane to gound incidents are caused by the ground to stick interface rather than soggy snakes.

Hair spray I got that from on here somewhere - But It might be the reason the edge wouldn't stay stuck. Either that or I needed more excess cloth to use gravity. I have moulded before just not glassed wings. Yachts with big lumps of lead you don't really need to be ultra careful about weight. Tight edges are always the hardest to do usually lots of stippling.

I like to support the outer over it's entire length - takes a bit of forward planning where the servo height is. I cut some softish to medium 1/4 sheet, glue some sandpaper around 1/4 dowel and route out the channel along its length. Then I bond the outers to the balsa with cyano or similar and use electric tie wraps to add a little security. Then that rod is bonded to the fuselarge former(s) and or local cross braces. What you don't want is secured ends and saggy middles as applying load in flight can lead to flutter etc. Just what John mentioned eariler.

Thank you for the comments. This has a few firsts for me. 1st proper powered purpose designed aerobatic. 1st plane with retracts 1st homemade vacform 1st go at glassing... Now I have been a model maker for a lot of years mostly gliders/yachts and I'm thinking I might know Martin Kinder if he is the same chap I have raced RM's and 1 metre yachts against back in early 1990's at Fleetwood/Birkenhead etc in the Northern District. In an earlier post he mentioned Housemartin and Bantock for equipment and that got me thinking. Anyway back to it. Sanding,sanding and more sanding. I've opened up the cowl and added the 1/64 ply hard edge ready for microballoon and epoxy fillet. As you can see I've tapered the ply edge ready to take the fillet which I'll add after glassing the cowl. I also sanded and smoothed the exit for the elevator and rudder controls upper one is elevator lower one for closed loop on rudder The elevator is two snakes one each side joined to a common servo. I then spent this evening cutting templates for the cutting of the glass, and applied to the battery hatch, elevator(s) and Rudder. I used cheep hairspray to hold the fine strands while cutting it worked suprisingly well. I useed an old plastic card to scrape the epoxy into the glass and remove the excess resin, this was suprisingly easy having earlier done the cockpit floor on Saturday evening. However I've not had the best of luck in getting the glass to drape over the edge. I'm not too worried about that as I can always edge separately. In the las picture you'll notice I have used the remaining epoxy to re-coat the plug for the canopy i've learned another first... It doesnt like being applied over Ronseal Diamond Hard varnish! In friday's post there is a photo of the Vacformed canopy but it shows a slightly mottled effect this is because the Roneal sofened under the temperature of the hot plastic - so I'm going to pull another with the plug hardened with epoxyand wet/dried. Hoping to have done most of the glassing by next weekend but we'll see. N

Super impressive! To keep faith I suppose you have to remind yourself one less to do. How do you do the Elliptical one's, compass perhaps?

Loaded Dice 1 from plans published in the american magazine RCM Nov1991 edition. The plan is available for download from outerzone. This is not a full build log but here are some photos taken this evening before I go and spoil it during the finishing. I still have a bit of sanding to complete and to open the cowl for air flow > I'm planning to have the "pipe" header exit as the air exit with microballoon lip to promote a bit of suction. Air in will come from an opening similar to that as would have originally been made for the OS61 pumper. My Speed control fits nicely in the area underneath what was the floor for the tank and in the space for that "pipe" header. Power according to e-calc is circa 1850 watts and I'm on target to achive 8 1/2 to 9lbs all up (hopefully no lead will be required to achieve CofG). Glass or Film it's decision time that I can't put off anylonger. Canopy needs to be fitted properly and filleted with epoxy micro balloons and why I'm procrastinating on glass or film. Leaning strongly to glass/paint. This is an Electric conversion which according to e-calc I have circa 1850 watts on a 6S. Duration for 8 mins so fingers crossed should be ample. Colour scheme probably like the "Green" GameBird 1 aerobatic but I've not ruled out a scheme like Terry Westrop's original. Nigel