Nigel Sharp

The Napier Saber was a beast of an engine weight 2360lbs/1070kg Also the sister to Hawker Typhoon the RR Vulture powered 2450lbs/1111kg Hawker Tornado ( cancelled at prototype due to engine issues and need for merlin for spits,hurricanes etc). Required short noses. The RR Merlin weight by comparison 1640lbs/744kg... So models need the right amount of ballast to balance properly. I am following with interest as I plan to start a Typhoon next. It is however the Tony Nihuis version and will be more stand off scale...

Free flight and control line Allbon Dart 0.5cc Dc Spitfire 1.0cc Various Cox .049 Baby Bee and Black Widows RC OS09MAX OS15MAX Enya 19 IV Hp Silverstar .40 Hours of fun in the farmers field behind my home in my teens with the small engines. That Dart cut my finger to the bone once. lovely in a veron cardinal. Spitfire temperamental to start. My first cox came with a plastic P40 that I rarely got to fly before abandoning it by moving to a PowerPod on a Svenson Senior glider. But I dislike the oily mess with engines so I spent most of my flying with gliders. Then 15 years doing Vane and Rc racing yachts before coming back to aircraft all now electric.

It's only a Vernier caliper if it has a Vernier scale! Digital readout equipped calipers are... digital calipers. Another alternative is a dial caliper. It's like calling a Dyson vacuum a Hover. Rant over.

Do you charge with Dc100 on mains ac or 12v Dc input? Ac mode you only have 50 watt per channel in the default settings. If you configure DC(out) you'll get proportionally less in one or both Channels. Dc input mode you get 100 watt per channel. Are you charging one pack per channel or using parallel charging?

My club has arranged a running contract/agreement with a vendor to cut the grass. Seems very efficient and in the peak of the season is once a fortnight. Obviously it comes at a cost and is spread over the membership fees. We also hire a roller occasionally to smooth the runway too. Avoids the issue with equipment theft tho.

Expect you could put a ubec in the circuit to reduce the voltage to 6v. Obviously there will be some resistance overhead as a result. But would enable 2s 7.2 volt down to the standard 6v receiver. Just like an esc bec.

It's a very niche subject, large and out of production. Possible but unlikely. If you have built from plans many times and can read drawings then the instructions aren't really necessary. Have you cast your search in Rcgroups etc too. If you wait for them it could be a very long time. Why not get plenty of photos of the subject and treat it like a proper scratch build. Make a start and figure it out as you go along. The build will be much more rewarding for it in the end.

Coming along nicely. I used that on my Loaded Dice Chris McG introduced it to me he sadly passed. But I think it came from RCgroups user FreddyB.

Surely if in your training you have been taught properly. You would have overcome the initial orientation problems. Then you would have practiced the sequence of procedures necessary for the A test. Such that when you presented for the test you would actually be ready. It is not a case of turn up hoping for the best. There is no substitute for practice.

Jonathan Enjoy your refurbished Wayfarer if I've inspired just one person to have a go at plan building then I'll have done a good thing. It is far more rewarding than screwing ready to assemble things together. My final post on the build will be my datasheet with control throws but I've yet to compile that so it will be later this week.

As promised here are the diagrams of my cabane modifications. I took the liberty to change the internal letterbox to a notched hardwood block which is like Acrostar. I also show the rib and spar positions superimposed on the side view. And here is the full-sized pdf. Wayfarer_Cabane_to wire_modification.pdf

Flew it yesterday 6 batteries. 7min per flight. Tried with a 15 x 7 giving 850 watt but wasn't as nice as with the 14 x 8.5 so swapped it straight back. Vertical was better on the 15 x 7 but speed much slower. Also shifted the C of G back a bit with stick on weights. Also not as nice so they were removed after one flight. Diagrams of cabanes tomorrow. N

Makes a great whistle through the wind on a low pass too. I have added some cross braces to the landing gear from stainless steel wire. This is because after 3 years my composite landing gear started to delaminate at the sharp change in direction and bend forces as it enters the belly fairing. Where the wires cross I added a strip of heatshrink tube to isolate metal to metal electrical interference. Cured the spread of delamination and also adds a bit of character. Finally I replaced my original motor during the wing rebuild. It got a bent shaft and was full of soil. So I fitted the NTM Propdrive 4248 650kv. When flying I use a 14 x 8.5" APC Electric prop. That pitch gives it a bit of a growl too. To confirm my power settings after using ecalc propdrive I've put it on the watt meter. Peak static Watts 785W Peak static Amps 48A I really enjoyed building this aircraft. It is a great flyer. Was straightforward to fix and enhance when I bust it. I recieve lots of compliments about it. Many people have asked what is it? It copes well with blustery conditions is not too big. Is in my sweet spot for aircraft type, and model e.g. sport flyer about 50 inch size. Goes in an estate fully rigged (Mazda 6). Its powered by what would be a .40 two stroke. I make no appologies for electric because it stays looking clean, my balsa isnt fuel soaked, my hands and transmitter are never oily. It always starts. Whats not to like.

Is that 17.6mm or 6mm. The I.C. powered aircraft would have I think a 8 to 10oz full tank when flying. If you're happy flying where yours is it's no sweat. If not you can always add some weight at the tail in small increments To bring it back. The rearward CG marker is just that. I'm more than happy where mine is it's a super aircraft. Been drawing up my cabane modifications and wing fixing this morning. I'll post them once they have been scanned to pdf on our office Photo copier. I bust the original wings and cabanes when I had a low height pilot induced whoopsee. Just as the plane was nearing a year old. The plane is strong fuselage and tail survived but wings nah not in a high speed inverted thump. I had to have a very strong word with myself. To say I was a tad miffed would be an under statement! So when I made the replacements I had to decide what to do with the cabanes. I decided easier to bite the bullet and do piano wire cabanes less surgery needed. Out when the Rubber Banded wings and in came bolts They transform the look of this bipe! So perhaps I now have a Waystar. As I basically did the same fixings. Here are some photos. This is after another three years of flying they're standing up quite well. Using a drill open out the fuselage. Make 1/2" × 1/8" letter box slots. Inside the fuselage are some boxed supports lined with 1/16 ply. My first thought was to make a fiberglass representation of the original cabanes. To slip into those letter boxes. I built the plug and started to make a mould but it was taking too long. So I switched to wire instead. Then I bent up 10 swg piano wire. I created loops at the top to take M4 x 20mm long screws. Because of the slots I silver soldered some 10mm x 3mm mild steel rectangle section to the base. I have access to chrome plating at work so a quick dip after sand blasting gave me some satin cabanes. Then I added 1/2" hardwood blocks to the fuselage sides at the lower wing trailing edge. These were tapped directly for M6 nylon bolts. I cut away a portion of the 3/16" landing gear mounting plate to allow for a tongue that I added to the lower wing. The landing gear makes a secure plate against which the tongue cannot escape. The upperwing had a 1" x 3/16" x 6" strip added between the leading edge and spar span wise, and a second against the rear spar. M4 T-Nuts were added. Wing bolted into place, and photo from front. And sat on the grass looking from the rear. A worthy enhancement. Looks even better to me.

Albert. Slight delay sorry about that. When I got my balance machine out a piece was missing. Had to retrieve it from my fathers house where this aircraft was built. I've balanced my Wayfarer tonight. She is balanced slightly further forward of the forward point on the Svenson plan with my battery strapped in the battery bay. When built she had a 4max 3547 700kv motor that weighed 154g She now has Turnigy NTM propdrive 4248 650 kv weighing 231g so an extra 77g heavier at the nose than when built. Hence the forward stance. The ratio of distance from spinner back plate to cg and cg to elevator hinge is 270mm:710mm so I believe that gives me 77 divided by 2.6 equalling 29 grams at the tail. Placing 35 grams brings her level. It's a little difficult to get the rule level here as the pad is on the front top sheeting of the lower wing. But it set at 42mm from leading edge Here is a section of the svenson plan Where I've taken lines to the lower wing sheeting. Svenson when they kitted to design also added that forward most point that Don Dewey the designer mentioned in the plan article for the 1972 plan. It's 1/2" (13 mm) forward of his marked position. In IC guise the aircraft has to balance with an empty tank to stay safe. With Electric we only lose electrons... I'm happy to add that small amount to my tail and I can report back after the weekend. Also this is a sneak peek at the modified cabane struts and wing fixing. N