Nigel Sharp

Just go onto the Web and search for the technical info for a typical .61 two stroke or 4 stroke depending on motor type on plan. They usually give the weights. Esp OS Then it's down to the tank capacity. But plan balances CofG when empty. Electric has the battery weight constant. So you can balance with the battery in as if the ic was empty. For example my Loaded Dice 1 was for a .61 two stroke with 12 oz tank. And tuned pipe. I have a 5050 580 kv motor 80 amp esc and a 6s 6200 battery in place of ic. The weights combined are very similar to the ic setup Balanced at the designers location with aadditional at most 30g lead at motor mount. Bonus is that the balance point does not shift during flight as would with fuel consumption.

I had a very simple sailfoil built by my dad in 1974. I'm approaching 60 now. Was a plan from model boats a free sailor eg. No radio control. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwipoqOzvd-MAxU1RUEAHf4mBLQQFnoECBYQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.foils.org%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2018%2F01%2Fmodboat1974_Jun.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1RgnxJ6KqzZruBq7UHGmvL&opi=89978449 Occasionally went like stink. But mostly fell over or tripped up on weeds in Yeadon tarn Leeds. The foils have been around quite some time. Enjoy your new found hobby. N

I've raced many Pugwash 36R races at the long pond Clapham. Incidentally the df65 & df95 were designed by Mark Dicks. Originally based from Clapham along with his dad Chris. RC yachting is great especially if you get into racing. Lots of skill involved to get the best out of the sails and tactics. Will be a great and rewarding alternative to flying. I know because I did 15 years on the competitive circuit. Still occasionally race my Vane steered A Class. Enjoy.

Look at Acrostar or Wayfarer too. Both very similar and quite simple builds. Wayfarer uses plywood cabane struts easier than wire bending. Acrostar is a later design by 12months. Substitute 3/32" balsa for the lite ply sides. See my build for a guide.

Send a message to outerzone admin. About the plan issue. I'm sure they will address it, as they did when I pointed out an issue with a plan I built from. If they don't know they can't fix.

I loaded my petg in the frame seen in the photo. This was slid into the oven at a low setting 100 deg if I remember watching through the glass until the sheet ha a droop of about 70mm (3in). Then straight out and over the form with the vacuum already running. Surprisingly satisfying. On the plug shown in the photo the draw is about 100mm from top of canopy to the perforated board. Canopy I'm my example is rigid and thinned to about 0.4 mm 1/64 th.

I used 1mm petg clear. Obtained from Trent Plastics, they cut to various sizes for a modest amount. Imy case I ordered 5 shts 500x500mm https://www.trentplastics.co.uk/product/clear-petg-plastic-sheet/

Snap! Made mine from mdf but not laser cut. It's dimensions are matching the inside of a domestic 600mm oven so I could heat the petg sheet using the rack runners holding the frame. You can see my Loaded Dice bubble canopy and plug after my first pull! In the picture attached.

Here is a guide as promised ACAD plot to pdf.pdf

I'll do a guide for you it might be a few days as I'll have to do it from my workstation at work when I've some spare time. The key is to use the autocad to pdf plotter driver as your printer. Once you have plotted to pdf you then have to open that pdf file in acrobat reader. Then print from acrobat reader. On the print options you have to select poster. Here is a guide to printing plans off outerzone that shows acrobat reader process. https://outerzone.co.uk/faq.asp#printoutplan Once you know it's easy. If only a bit tedious sticking the pages together. Personally I use an a3/a4 cheep guillotine and stationary glue stick.

For E-clip specifically Search for "Fastrax E-clip tool" won't break the bank but is made from aluminium. Around £6. Others are available For example. Nelson 5pc E-clip remover/installer etc. ( B&Q circa £13). The E number refers to the diameter of the groove not shaft. So a clip to E6 would be a 7-9mm shaft or pin with groove of 6mm dia. If you use old inch units the e clip dia is the shaft or pin diameter according to the Internet search I did.

Balsa grade is defined by density. For model making usually in range 6 to 18 lb cubic foot. So in imperial units 6lb<8Ib per cubic foot is soft 8<12lb is medium >12lb is hard But the grain direction is important too. Soft is the cleanest lightest coloured Hard is usually darkest and difficult to cut with a craft knife.

Try plotting 1:1 to pdf output. Then open in acrobat reader, and print from that using poster print option. You get cut marks included from acrobat reader.

If you are flying Drone as per multi rotor, not a member of the bmfa or model club then perhaps visiting the CAA drone website would be appropriate. It will give you all you will need to know. As the earlier poster remarked if your drone has a camera to record video or pictures you will need to take the appropriate awareness tests, and by doing that you will recieve the appropriate operator and flyer I.d. numbers. https://www.caa.co.uk/drones/ You can join the bmfa do the rcc test and recieve the same via bmfa. https://rcc.bmfa.uk/rcc

Model designers sometimes make slight alterations to the scale outline to better proportion tail size etc to make better flying model. True scale is shown with dotted outlines. Unless you're aiming for world champ just build to the plan. Just like Rotton Row said while I typed this.