Peewhit

Phil, We are more than willing to help. Just say what transmitter you have and we will see what we can do.

Hi Phil, The Speedo is a fast ship and does not like to be flown slowly - I saw one go nicely in a 35mph wind. 15 degrees of flap is an awful lot and usually 1-2mm is all that is required for a "thermal" setting. The faster the plane flies the more lift the wing produces so try and keep the speed up and let the wing work. The other thing that causes tip stalling is lack of aileron differential and on the Speedo, the up aileron movement should be twice that of the down. I don't know what transmitter you have but ideally, The flaps should be on a slider to give some down, and the ailerons linked to this so that they move the same rate to give an all wing profile. The flaps should be linked to the ailerons with flap movement about 1/3 that of the ailerons. The throttle stick should operate crow braking which is the flaps down as much as they will go and the ailerons up about 2/3 of their travel - note that some elevator compensation (usually down) will be needed. Use this progressively just like the brakes on a car. Hope this helps, Peter.

I saw one fly on Wednesday. It had flaps and was set up for crow braking. The wind was 35mph on the edge and I was flying ballasted mouldies. The Speeo penetrated that wind and flew very well indeed. I might just have to get one

I run a DSX9 2.4, had the same situation with my Stinger, and used a Spektrum AR 6255 receiver which is DSM2. It has two long antennae which are designed to exit the fus and be taped (or whatever) to the outside. You only need the last inch or so outside the fus. It is nice and small at 18 x 35 x 10mm so should fit nicely, and also has plugs in the end. I get a 50 yard range check with the bind button depressed and have never had a brown out or any loss of control.   Edited By Peewhit on 13/10/2012 16:25:16

Hi Mike and bad luck. Savox 0255s are normally very good. Are you sure that it is the servos and not the wiring harness - ie have thay been wired up correctly. You could try connecting the servos dierctly to the receiver. If it is definitely the servos, then as Ro says, the simplest and probably cheapest fix is to replace them with two of the same. Otherwise, you are going to be playing "musical chairs" to pair them up. If you do go for other servos, watch the depth as the wing is very thin for the aileron servos. The Savox are 12mm deep and I am surprised that they fit in. My Typhooon has Hyperion - 090 (9mm) on the ailerons and 095 on the flaps. It is now nearly three years old with over 200 hours in the air. I have repaired it several times yet those Hyperion servos are still precise, center well, and have no slop.

It looks very like one of these. Perhaps the wing has been shortened to increase loading and make it fly faster. If it is a Phase 6, try the C of G at 4 3/4" and if that is OK, move it back to 5". When is the maiden?

Hi Trevor. It is on page 40 of the manual. Just delete each model setting and it is back to factory settings.

Hey lad, Aeros with power are so easy it is untrue. Now, to do aeros on the slope with an unpowered glider takes that little bit of skill. In additon to the Blaster, I only have a Skorp, Typhoon, Wizard Compact and Stinger, all of which can do superb aeros on wind power alone. Try it sometime, if you dare

I have both an EG electric and a Blaster 2. Whilst the EG is good for electric flat field flying there is really no comparison on the slope. The EG strugggles to do a decent roll. The Blaster will do both vertical and horizontal eights. Yes, the Blaster is more expensive. You do not need to fit it out with expensive MKS servos as the control surfaces do not need that much power. Try doing real aerobatics in light lift with an EG! I know which I prefer.

Savox 0257 are fine. IMHO Savox 0255 are the same size and a better servo. There is really not a lot to chose between the two. The E-Typhoon is a very different beast regarding servo placement.

Hi Chuck and sorry about the quality of the photos - have since bought a new camera. Mine was one of the first Typhoons and came from Sloperacer (Zim alias Warwick) with a wiring harness. It is simply servo wire with servo plugs at one end and Multiplex Green connectors at the other. If making my own harness, I would put the female connectors at the fus and the male connectors at the wings - less chance of loosening the male connectors during transport. The deck is a weak point - particularly the bit at the front of the ballast tube. Cut out only the minimum you need - in my case the servo and battery holes only - and try to reinforce the sides from as far back as possible to as far forward as possible, but do this AFTER you have brought the wiring through as there is very little space. Hope this helps, Peter.

Hi Chris, Bend the steel wire just a little bit and then put Pritt Stick on the carbon rod each time it is assembled. The Pritt Stick just wipes off with a damp cloth. Mine has never moved.

Well done Ian and a great video. Your Middlephase looks good and flies really well. Hole of Horcum was superb with 20mph on the edge and I spent four hours playing with a little toy called a Stinger. Beware, this is the point at which the addiction for slope soaring really kicks in................

Well done Ian. I started slope soaring with a Middlephase and initially spent more time fixing than flying. The great thing about a Middlephase is that you have built it, know how it fits together, and can therefore fix it. Just keep at it and eventually one day you will take it back home without any damage. Then there will be more and more days without any damage. Then it may be time for that first mouldie. I am going to the Hole of Horcum tomorrow and together with a couple of mouldies, I may also take the Phase 6. Just like the Middlephase, it is great fun to fly and performs superbly. You have a great model which was designed to fly well. Fly it, fly it, and fly it. Regards, Peter.

Well said Tom. Good sensible advice, even if it is a bit long winded James, I used coloured tape on both the top and bottom of the model - red on the top and yellow on the bottom. The tape can start to tear off, typically at the leading edge and wing tips. A good tip to prevent this is to use sellotape ultra clear around the wing tips and right along the leading edge. Start at the wing tips using small lengths of about one inch. Overlap each length slightly and gradually work around until you get to the straight leading edge where you can use one great big long length.

Hi James, Having built and rebuilt a 46" fusion, I would glue the wing halves together and then cw tape over the whole wing. This will be a lot stronger than taping each half individually and the joining with glue and strips of tape. Using a 4 cell AA pack, it will ballance with just a small amount of lead taped in front of the battery. Despite what Alan says, the Fusion will greatly benefit from about 4oz of ballast burried in the fus right on the C of G. This makes it fly that little bit faster so that it penetrates better and the wing will generate more lift. Good Luck, Peter

Hi John, What transmitter are you using and what model designation have you selected?

Well the instructions say to cycle and recharge slowly for the initial charge prior to use. I do this for all my NiMH (only have ten in models) and they are fine. Can't have been a complete discharge as there was still enough power to run the receiver - just to get back to the point.

I am installing the servos in the wings of my new slope soarer toy and this involves a lot of playing around with just one servo connected to the Rx (Spektrum AR 6255 carbon fus thing). The 4.8v NiMH battery is new and I was using it "as bought" because I wanted it to discharge it prior to the first charge. After several hours of "playing" the servo connected to the Rx slowed down and then stopped working due to low battery power. The surprising thing is that the red light on the receiver was still solid red. Hence, if there is enough power and voltage in the battery to run a servo then there is more than enough to run the receiver. I have been using Spektrum gear on 4.8v for over three years, have four different models of receivers, and have never suffered from a low voltage brown out. Now I think I know why.

That sounds like a very sensible plan Simon. I forgot to mention that the front of the ballast tube needs some reinforcement to prevent the ballast weights crashing through the servos in the event of a "sudden" landing. Nothing too thick though as it will eat into the servo space, and things are already tight in the Typhoon. I think I used a piece of 1/8" ply epoxied across the fus as a former under the deck. You do need bring the wing servo wires through first though. Good luck with the build, Peter.

I replaced the horns on my Typhoon with brass ones and this is how the servos should go in, just for Andy

Hi Andy, The first lesson of geometry is that you have the servo arms as short as possible to give the required throw. Perhaps those on your Typhoon are not set up correctly What was that about teaching Grandmothers to suck eggs? Hard flying is what slope soaring is all about. Otherwise, why do it? Regards from a Typhoon lover, Peter.

When new, my Fusion would fly in two ways - either wallowing around or heading down the slope at a fair rate of knots. It needed to fly faster in "level" flight and the answer is ballast. Mine is the 46" and I now fly it with 4oz of ballast permanently embedded into the fus right on the C of G. Surprisingly, it will fly in lighter winds with ballast as the increase in speed produces more lift. You will probably need about 6oz of ballast for the 60", but try it with 4oz first and see. It does become a very different and much better ship.

Hi Simon, My Hyperions are still fine after more than 150 hours in the air - no head slop at all. For a top notch install, I would use MKS - 6100 for the ailerons and 6125 for the flaps. Peter.

Hi Ian, Went to the east coast today with the wind measuring 30mph on the edge. The Phase 6 flew superbly (without any ballast) and so would your Middlephase have. Managed to prang the Typhooon in a heavily buffeted landing zone, but the Phase 6 managed several flights undamaged.