Simon K 3
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Everything posted by Simon K 3
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yes it is.
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Guys, See the front page of Sussex models.... look what they are now selling.... http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=27290
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Thanks Eric.
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Flys nicely, though I've not got it fully "on-song". I'm using Futaba 3150 servos throughout and I managed to squeeze in a home made 4 cell AA 2600mah battery pack. I also added a home made ballast tube (a piece of plastic plumbers pipe), and made up some ballast slugs from some brass rod. The build was very straight forward, however getting the flap movements right took a bit of work. To get the flap movement, I used a dremel to grind a slot in the tailing edge spar. Doesn't seem right to have to do this, but I've had no problems. Still got an awful lot to learn, but let me know if I can help.
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I honestly can't remember... but once its in the air your not going to see them... so your call.
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Agreed, He was very helpful when I bought my Alex 2.1
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Sorry, we are getting away a bit from the original thread, so this is my last "off topic" post on this thread... Full Size glider wings may look fragile, but are extremely strong.... Take a look at the DG website. Here is the story of load testing a wing (to destruction) http://www.dg-flugzeugbau.de/bruchversuch-e.html Some impressive video is also included in the article. I know of some models have been un-wittingly tested to destruction, but I wonder how many would cope with these tests? With regards to the windrider fox, the wings are a little more fragile and very thin... hence the reason Ming Lou extended the carbon to the tips.
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Timbo, Thank you very much for your pictures. Very informative. I really do appreciate your (and others) advice... this is a first for me. This evening, I will post pictures of the single battery wiring loom I've made up - Think it is quite tidy.. I used a DB9 connector (as this was what I had sitting around in my "odd 'n sods" box), however I'll look into the 12 pin idea. Tom, With only 9 pins available to me, do you have an idea how I could have wired the connector differently? Once again thanks to all for your comments / tips. BTW...(Scrapped the 2 battery idea)
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Sorry, Redundant question now as I've had it confirmed that the negatives would need to be common. BTW... decided to stay with the first option.
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Thanks guys for the advice. I was trying to see what the options options were. Think I'll stick with 4-cell sub c. With regards to the question about single battery configuration and why power directly - 4 servos x 3 wires = 12 way connector (as I wanted a single connector to the wings), so I was following a suggestion from a friend of having common power leads. I've also come across the same idea in an F3F build clinic DVD I've recently acquired.
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Hi All, I'm in the process of putting together a 4 servo wing for an F3F glider, and so having spent lots of money on the model, I decided to build the wiring loom.... false econmony I know, but it keeps me out of trouble and is a lot less messy than playing around with Glass cloth and resin! Anyway to get to the point of the post... I've built a wiring loom which can be seen in the diagram below, and all works fine. What I tried to do next was see if I can power the receiver from a separate battery (as I'll be using Spektrum 2.4Ghz), and this does not work... as can be seen in the next diagram. Any ideas why the second scenario would not work? Do the negatives have to be common, or am I missing something completely? Thanks for any advice Simon PS.... Sorry about the quality of the diagrams... they look lovely on my screen!
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Hi All, Well work has been a bit unkind, and I'm only now getting around to putting the Acacia 2 together, and was hoping for some assistance with a query I have about wiring the wing. I've built a wiring loom which can be seen in the diagram below, and all works fine. What I tried to do next was see if I can power the receiver from a separate battery (as I'll be using Spektrum 2.4Ghz), and this does not work... as can be seen in the next diagram. Any ideas why the second scenario would not work? Do the negatives have to be common, or am I missing something completely? Thanks for any advice Simon PS... I can move this question to DIY electronics if that's more appropriate... but I just thought I would try the Gliding gang first. PPS.... Sorry about the quality of the diagrams... they look lovely on my screen!
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Agreed. Lines to die for, and the height of design and technology.... but I'm very lucky to have a share in a full size Discus 2B and can fly the clubs Duo & DG1000, so .... " been there, got the tee-shirt "... and probably a bit biased. Also my grandfather (Robert Kronfeld) designed and flew a 30m glider (the Austria) in WOOD back in the 40s... a feat which has only recently been repeated in the last few years with the ETA (http://www.eta-aircraft.de) using composite materials.
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That's why full size glider training concentrates so much on developing the pupils lookout and field of view scan. If you think the amount of full size gliders in a relatively small area is impressive, then try and get along to one of your regional competitions next year, such as Lasham, Booker, Nympsfield,etc... They use a held start to give all competitors a chance to get established, and the "competition finishes" (VNe at treetop height) is very impressive for both spectators, as well as very exciting for the pilots. Some lovely gliding / aviation pictures can be seen at www.whiteplanes.com. (could be useful for getting that real scale feel?). The site was the work of the late Stuart Lawson, a truly exceptional photographer who had a particular passion for gliding, and is maintained in his memory.
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To Rudder or Not to Rudder... that is the question; I'm someone who likes rudder, as helps with some aerobatic maneuvers, so I added it. Flys nicely with it.... Not much help I know... I think its gonna be personal choice. You could always build “as-is” (without) and see what you think. It can always be added later; however it would mean running a servo extension cable (possibly by cutting a fine slot)? One thing I did do was add a strip of heavy duty clear plastic packing tape to the bottom of the fuselage. As its clear it doesn't show up, but does help protect belly a bit. With regards to looks, Scale has never really "done it for me", however the Fox has a special place in my heart as I'm a full size glider pilot who was privileged to have a "washing machine ride" in a real fox with a Very good aerobatic pilot! Wow! What an experience!!!
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Mine had no covering (in the 'raw' as you put it), but the incident with the jart I tried to repair and covered with solafilm.... BIG mistake. It pull the foam and all out of shape as the wings are quite thin... but then again I didn't CW tape first...
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Found the piccies.. Default colours Added Visibility tips (shame it didn't help the Jart pilot One thing I did have a problem with was the canopy magnets (probably me), so I added a mechanical catch and retaining elastic band inside.
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<!-- @page { size: 21cm 29.7cm; margin: 2cm } P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm } --> I had one of the early ones (which didn't have carbon rods all the way out to the tip - design changed now) in the early part this year.... unfortunately it lost out when a Jart took the tail off in flight. Damage done during collision and subsequent "arrival" back on the slope mean if was not worth repairing. Shame, because I really liked it. I bought mine direct from http://www.windrider.com.hk/product.asp?id=164 in Hong Kong. It arrived Very well packaged, and Ming (the chap who sells them) frequents rcgroups and is very helpful. Mine had the rudder, though I over sized it from the original marks and it had more than enough authority. I'll try and see if I've still got some pictures some where...
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Discussion for the Advent prize draw
Simon K 3 replied to Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage's topic in Chit-chat
No Problems
