Mick Cayton

Hello Bob; Yes it is pumped - the pump sits in the backplate and the carb looks quite sophisticated. I think it's regulated. It responds to tiny needle movements. The recommendation is to set the low speed mixture then open the throttle and go to the high speed setting. I think the tank could be positioned anywhere in the model. For Stu's benefit, the running in requirements are for a 25:1 ratio. For regular use OS recommend 25 - 30:1 (I suspect that's to cover mineral oil use) although they have checked Klotz ModeLube, Amsoil Saber, etc at 50:1. I would think you could go quite lean on a racing synthetic - which I use, but I never run my petrol engines leaner than 40:1.

It could work if I stick to high oil content - around 20:1 and use the carb very gently. Petrol/air stoichiometry (wondered if I'd ever get that to use that word...) is about one third that of alcohol so the threads are that much more coarse on the mixture needles on conventional glow carbs. In the GGT10 instructions OS make a particular point about fuel contamination and even the tiniest fragments being capable of blocking the carb. They also say don't dismantle the carb(?). The engine has a tiny filter in the line between pump and carb; they also say don't run in on the ground because of the risk of the engine sucking in dust. I have only run it after rain and I use lots of new petrol filters. Petrol filters are important because the mesh glow type are too coarse and allow particles through of a size that will block the OS carb.

I think OS are defintely onto something with this engine: It's nicely made; gets (almost) as much power as a 46-50 two stroke; it weighs the same; no messing with the extra weight of ignition, mounting or radio interference (as Phil observed) and it's VERY cheap to run. The other bonus is I always have fuel and don't run out on a Saturday evening - I always keep some petrol in the shed for the gardening machines and I keep a stock of good synthetic oil on the shelf. By the way, the blurb says 50:1 - I'm running-in on 25:1, but I doubt I'll ever push it to 50:1. Pulls nicely on a 12 x8. In answer to Percy's observations, I have wondered what the petrol glow plugs will work in... Might try one in a 91 four stroke or even an AX120... I suspect the petrol glow plug might have set some sort of ball rolling...

I have one of these engines and have just run it up. It's nicely made (as you would expect) and runs well. However; do not touch the low speed mixture before you start the engine. I thought it was a good idea (with my glow head on) to richen the idle adjust before I ran it in... then I tried to start it... then I read the instructions. It didn't start of course so I got the electric starter out and the only way I could get it to fire up was to spin it over with a screwdriver on the low mixture screw and screw it in until the engine fired - not easy on my own with the engine in a plane. The engine fired and would not rev - it kept cutting out as I opened the throttle. The main mixture screw was again too rich - I had opened it half a turn too much. I have now set the main mixture and the engine starts easily - by hand - and revs well. Do not treat this engine like a methanol glow engine - it won't start. I have two previous petrol engines: a DLE 20 and 30, but the experience didn't help. If you have an OS glow petrol engine, don't be a bloke - read the instructions first. It will save alot of effort. I have this engine set up in a Black Horse Orbit with flight controller, OSD and a screen on my transmitter. I havn't flown it yet (expect to next week-end) and I expect the engine to perform very well, but before you touch it you must RTFM!

All the dust and abrasives going through that new motor - Yow! Might help to run it in though...

David,   Get well soon - I said I'd beat you in the Tomboy comps this year and I don't want to hear any excuses...   Look forward to seeing you back on the flying field.   Best regards,   Mick.

I built one of these back in 1977 or 78. It was my first "big" model powered by an Enya 40. I built it as per plan and flew it on three channel - rudder, elevator, motor - with the dihedral, of course. Radio was very expensive then - I had just built the RCM&E proportional gear (when the "E" in RCM&E meant electronics, rather than electric) and could only afford three servos.   I remember it flew very well on three channels and was a major step up for me from the 1.5 - 2.5cc R/C models I was flying at the time. I am tempted to try one with an Irvine 53 - I know it will be a great flyer.   Mick.

I built one of these back in 1977 or 78. It was my first "big" model powered by an Enya 40. I built it as per plan and flew it on three channel - rudder, elevator, motor - with the dihedral, of course. Radio was very expensive then - I had just built the RCM&E proportional gear (when the "E" in RCM&E meant electronics, rather than electric) and could only afford three servos.   I remember it flew very well on three channels and was a major step up for me from the 1.5 - 2.5cc R/C models I was flying at the time. I am tempted to try one with an Irvine 53 - I know it will be a great flyer.   Mick.

   UPSTART

I have an Elf bi-plane vintage model, with the undercarriage well forward as was the style of the day. This model would not track straight - I reckon I had a 10% chance of a take-off before bottleing and shutting down when it looked like rolling across the patch. This was so bad I considered it dangerous with others in the vicinity and stopped flying the damned thing in company.   That was until someone mentioned a gyro. I bought a cheapy gyro (~£20) from Ebay and stuck it on the rudder servo. Job done! The model stracks straight every time; I just have to remember to turn it off when airborne as the rudder is the primary control.   This approach might be treating the symptoms and not the cause with the WotsWot, but it works very well on my bi-plane and if it get the model safely in the air... Just don't forget to turn it off as the rudder behaves rather oddly sometimes if you use the control with the gyro on.   Cheers,   Mick.

In with a shout!