Applewood

Interesting searching on 51Cargo and Hobbyking I found this on RCG. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?4008905-What-happened-to-hobbyking/page7 Would be useful if they have a trade counter too.

Does anyone know where the UK warehouse is now located? I'm sure there were rumours it was now in the North West? The reason for asking, I remember they had a local collection option which people have used if they are local/passing the store.

Thanks, I’m planning on doing some static thrust tests. According to the spec the best I could get on 8S is 3.69kg, or 5Kg on 10S. Wemotec midi Evo 90mm 11 blade fan partnered with HET Typhoon 650-68-1500 36mm motor. (8S -80a 2368W 3.69KG)

On the bench I've measure WOT watts/apps on two types of 8S lipos when running up the edf. With the esc’s default medium timing 15deg. Measuring at WOT 45C Graphene 2023W 75A (26.97V/ 3.37 per cell), 25C Turnigy 2271W 80A (28.39v/3.55 v per cell) With lower 7.5 deg timing, 8S Graphene 70A 1934W (27.62v/3.45v per cell) 8S Turnigy 75A 2138W (28.5v/3.56v per cell). Quick test with 10S 109A 3874W 35.54v/3.55v per cell). I think that means with the best battery (surprisingly the turnigy) the voltage under load is 3.55V which could be quite low, although I’m not an expert. Would you agree? Does that mean the lipos are capable enough.

It should fly similar (https://www.nexusmodels.co.uk/sebart-mini-avanti-s-1-42m-jet-white-red.html). Apparently Sebart licenced the Avanti design to Freewing to produce their foam version.

Just checked the internal resistance and the batteries are fine, very low IR. But they are not that special just Turnigy Blue 25-35C 4S 5000mahs.

I'm really intrigued about this, I wouldn't have thought such a short length would make a difference. We have a roll of quite stiff plastic/rubber matting I'm wondering if that would work, I'll have to go and measure it.

Yes I'm going on COG recommended by the manual and others on forums. As described, one recommendation I picked up from a German youtube channel, was to increase the front strut by 2cm to lift the nose when the gear is down. I'm awaiting a new longer strut pin for the front landing gear.

Are you using carpet for the entire strip, or just short piece to get the model moving. Sorry if this is a stupid question, all my three clubs have just been grass strips. Thanks

Hi can you help please. I'm not sure if I've got the right setup for this model, struggling to rotate WOT from grass strip. I have the Sebart Mini Avanti S composite EDF which uses a 90mm fan. I have the Wemotec Midi 90mm fan with HET 650-68 1500kv running 8S. However it doesn't seem like it’s enough power taking off from grass strip WOT, you can't get it to lift it's nose and rotate. I mainly fly IC warbirds so this is something completely new to me. Have I got the wrong motor/fan combination? Or do I need to persevere and tweak/modify the setup. My setup: Sebart Mini Avanti V2 3.8kg with 6S lipo JP Hobby retracts with brakes (powered by 3S 450mah lipo 55g) Wemotec midi Evo 90mm 11 blade fan partnered with HET Typhoon 650-68-1500 36mm motor. (8S -80a 2368W 3.69KP, 10S - 5.0 kgs (10S 37V) @100A.) Hobbywing HV (5-12S) 120amp ESC (opto) FrSky TD R18 and 2x 1100mah life flight batteries (132g) X20 Radio Hitec HS-5085MG servos Turnigy 5000mah 25-35C 4S LIpos x2 in series, 8S, in good condition not puffed 980g weight combined CG 145mm from the front of the wing - as per manual On the bench I've measure WOT 8S lipos : 25C Turnigy 2271W 80A 10S. 109A 3874W I did measure thrust, but didn't record results, I think they were not far off spec. Grass strip 110m (360ft), at the time grass was bone dry, not long but could have done with a cut. At the time there was 10mph cross winds so no lift being offered to help. Observations. Taxing at WOT it won't rotate, full up elevator wouldn't get it to lift it's nose. Take off flaps used. The last run, I reduced power towards end of the strip and it shot up off the ground 15ft without warning. The combination of grass, small front wheel, and down thrust, looks like its pushing the nose down. Maybe reducing throttle, reduced the down thrust and was the explanation for it shooting up. A few things I’m going to try: 1) Get that grass cut nice and short, take off when wind is favourable 2) Read somewhere that WOT induces some down thrust, so I'm going to extend the front nose leg so that it will help with the rotation, found a chat on YouTube who did the same to make it rotate. 3) Better batteries - I would rather stick with 8S, than move to 10S due to expense of new batteries and additional weight 4) Worst case change the fan/motor / batteries I've spent quite a lot on this, and I'm at the point of either investing it it further or selling it. If I need to change motor/fan/batteries, I'm probably going down the sale route. anyone had similar experience and can offer any advice. My club mainly fly's IC so no advice is available locally.

I will look at the brown paper method. I have a Warbird Replica spitfire I remember the thread with the Brown paper covering information. I would still like to use the Koverall on the top flite model as the cloth is sat on the shelf waiting and wanted to get a texture finish. Anybody out there with recent experience of Koverall either via dope or poly c that can offer any experience the best way with 90% sheeted model?

Quick one, are you guys using sanding sealer to seal the grain with a light sand prior to the pva & brown paper

Thanks chaps, really good info.

Thanks for this. I have come across the brown paper method before, but not applied it. How hard does the brown paper finish provide in comparison to cloth & dope? With your approach are you using high build primer (say acrylic) and then B&Q colour emulsion, then the Fuel proofer over the top? Are you using wet&dry after the emulsion to remove brush or spraying the emulsion ?

Hi all, Happy New Year!! I'm in process of building a TopFlite 1/7 Spitfire. Laser 100 FS providing noise. I've got a nice big 5yrd pack of Sig Koverall for covering. The kit fuse and wing is mostly made up of sheeted surfaces, the only open surfaces are the control surfaces with ribs. I'm still in construction mode, so I'm planning ahead on the covering. I quite like the fabric texture finish, also saves me the weight of filling and sanding to smooth. I'm used to covering film & glass / epoxy approaches, but I've missed the tissue/cloth dope approach. There are a number of approaches, what's the best way to adhere Koverall based on this model being mostly sheeted surface. I think i've got two methods: Dope approach Sanding sealer/dope over all surfaces to seal Non shrinking dope on edges, then drape over roughly cut to shape koverall. shrink and then fill weave with thinned non-shrinking dope Prime & paint & fuel proof PolyC/Varnish Sanding sealer overall surfaces to seal balsa PolyC on the edges like dope, then lightly shrink koverall Brush polyC through the sheeted surfaces to fill weave I'll need to confirm approach for open structures Prime & paint & fuel proof What's the best approach people have found? Happy either way, the only kit I have in cupboard towards this is tin of Guild Materials Sanding Sealer, and of course the Koverall.

Suppose I’m trying to work out for a warbird, is the thrust to weight more important, pitch speed or pitch to stall ratio. Or the combination. I might be in the realms of over thinking this now . I like to be able to fly comfortable, not massive speed , but enough power to get out of trouble. I like to have reasonable throttle range response, throttle mid to 3/4 for average flying.

Quick Qu, with lower speed flying characteristics more challenging, would more pitch give you ability to throttle up and gain speed quickly if needed? How does the 18x12e lookout the calcs if you don’t mind gents? It would give more pitch speed without sacrificing too much thrust, amps are still ok.

Hi Frank, thanks for the response. It's an OS HV 70a (85a peak) esc. I might try an apc19x10e. Like you say it would give more ummph for short periods. Should get more of a linear throttle response.

Just done some rudimentary tests in the garden (rigged up luggage scales to the tail). It’s pulling 6kg with the 18x10 wooden Aerostar, And 5.5kg on an apc ic 18x8. Interestingly the wooden sounds so much quieter. Unfortunately I’ve not got any other lager props to try. ive got a watt meter but it’s got the wrong connector type, Not got a rpm meter. Edited By Applewood on 09/05/2020 12:32:43

And thanks for the help Btw. I’m happy with IC and smaller electric setups, less confident with electric as it gets bigger.

Current prop is a cheapy hobbyking Aerostar wooden job, So probably not best to gauge best results. If I’m getting a pucka apc-e prop which is best to start with?

Just checked the plane weight. It’s 5.35kg without 8S lipo or 6.35kg with . I assumed you include lipo weight.

Hi there I’m finishing setting up a tony nijhuis 72” spitfire (6500g) with an AXI 5330/18 v1 259kv running 8S. I’ve put on an 18x10 pro which im sure will work but doesn’t pull massively well when testing on the ground. Does anyone have access to an online calc or uses this setup that could advice prop setup on 8S. Cheers Edited By Applewood on 08/05/2020 23:42:31