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Alex Hasell

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Everything posted by Alex Hasell

  1. yes please it will fit a gap in the hanger nicely
  2. Peter, Thanks for the tip i shall have a look thanks,
  3. Doug,  funny you should say that about the post office thats exactly how i found out what they weigh. Your problem with the UC wire i used to have a home made pipe bender although it was a pipe bender it would bend anything round down to 1mm dia, very simple to make costs about 3-4 pound in parts and will last your life time have the plan somewhere on a PDF could dig it out if you were interested? Hope you get it covered soon looking forward to seeing it complete, and no i haven't seen this months mag yet you must subscribe and get it earl as its not in my local till 29th unfortunaley will be interested to see it though as i want to tackle a acrobatic model at soon time soon at the mo its a CAP also by Peter but a second wouldn't hurt! or a third or forth lol. Regards Alex.
  4. a penny weighs an 1/8th of an ounce 3.5 grams cant help with the pounds though althought 2p pieces weigh 7grams so you could recalculate using these two coin configurations hope it helps lovely model by the way when funds allow i WILL finish mine!
  5. will be watching keenly the same kit is on my wish list so will be joining you quite soon i hope good luck Alex
  6. well that was short and sweet lol
  7. Yorkman, Guess its just personal choice i would rather use the spare reciver packs i have take them with me mainly fcause i could lose my head if it wasnt attached so loads of dry cells floating about i know it would happen. And its very easy to do. Regards Alex
  8. hi, i know it might sound a little silly but my friend had a "park Fly" and had similar problems in the end it was the prop it was on backwards hence there was no power to climb /recover from anything just a thought for you. Alex
  9. Shaun, Very pleased for you mate you must be made up with how they turned out unfortunately i c ant watch the footage on my prehistoric pc but sure its good smiles all round. lol Just been looking at these beauties on the link you gave see what you mean they really are good value for what you get wish there were more manufacturers/retailers that would follow suit. Regards Alex
  10. Craig, There is a excellent thread on batteries on here written by Timbo have a look it will answer your questions, Alex
  11. Craig, Glad you found it help full let me know how you get on when the time comes ill be doing mine once warranty expires and will posts some pics if others will benifit from it. Regards, Alex.
  12. Craig, Your spot on with that but like you say it is how the set is designed so the BMFA would be unfair in my opinion to say the set couldn't be used. And i think the issue with dry cells is more orientated towars flight packs for rx and alike. Its also an issue that with the dry cells if you think about it theres 8 contact points for 4 batterys thats 8 possible problems as opposed to 1 if fitted with a pack. Its down to personal choice personally at the min im leaving as is after the warranty has run out then i will go to packs as it might sound alot but is very simple to do and its takes any chance of mixing charged not charged dry cells together. But as i say thats just my opinion you must do as you feel All the best Alex
  13. Craig, I have thought of doing the same at some stage myself, i havent any pics that will help at the minute but when i come up with some thing i will post them on for you. When you say remove the clips what do you mean? If you are refering to the two battery connection strips inside the bat cover then yes these have to come out so a pack can fit in. So what you would need to do is take out the exsiting batterys then unscrew the transmitter case shows you how in the instructions if your not sure. Disconnect the red and black wires from the contact strips the strips now need to come out. Once they have been removed you will need a FEMALE plug for the battery pack to plug into (if you have a spare switch harness you can use the one off that) and connect that to the wires observing polarity of course. You can now put it back together poke the new plug through into the battery bay. connect your new pack and off you go. In terms of pacck selection thats really up to you and depends how much you want to spend would suggest some thing around 2000 mah to give decent duration between charges remember the only real benifits of doing this job as i see it is charging and changing the bats is easier and it is slightly better asd theres less conection points for there to be any problems with. Now lipo, you need a 2s pack and a 6v regulator. Its a nice idea but given the size of the batt bay without major modification it just wont fit and thats just the bat you would have to house the regulator internally as well!!!!
  14. i have a Boomerang and what chris says is spot on it will take you further than an Airising Star they are a very good starting point there is a buid blog on one if you want to look probably on the second page of threads as its not been updated for a while, and you  can get them readily for £40 which is a lot of model for the money and if you stuff it you wont break the bank replacing it either
  15. Should go very nicely me thinks!! I'll start scanning the Shropshire skyline for an incoming squadron of F16's lol
  16. 3 and 1/2 inch is what i put on much better
  17. i sympathise i have one to your right it is a right pain to say the least vering to the left a little bend then to the right and so on and so on!!! Have found two options convert to tail dragger or stay as trike but beef it up only the larter is harder to do because the nose wheel then involes new mounting plates etc all i can say have a look for a replacement online Galaxy Models have some worth a look. Very good service to.
  18. Also grab a copy of this months mag theres a good article for beginners covering transmitters as well as some pictures which i allways find help explain more clearly
  19. Hi and Welcome Tony, I take it you mean it;s been tested this coming wednesday? Dont worry i was asking this exact question not so long ago myself. I take it that they are connected to the pushrods and servos centered? Quite simple with the Ailerons or rudder centralised hold a ruler next to the serface as you move it with your TX and see how far it moves in one way and then the other. In your instructions it will give you the required deflections (movements) eg 10mm on aileron so you want the TIP of the aileron to me at 10mm on the ruler and same in opposite direction, Repeat this for the opposite side and then the rudder depending on your type of TX if you have a computer model its a piece of cake you can use the surface throw or AVT as its sometimes known to alter the amount of movement in each direction see the manual as how to do this. Or manually by moving the clevis on the control horns up or down you will either increase or decrease the amount of movement you get. I hope this helps. Also you can look up a thread of mine called   surface throws in this beginners section where theres a nice graphic of this. I understand you dont want to look stupid but i can almost guarentee that the exprienced flyer whos testing for you will not be criticle of these things and will make sure everything is ok first and will show you first hand how to do these things. You dont know till you know!
  20. Shaun Looking good there have you had chance to fly her yet? Also i wanted to PM you but for some reason i dont have the option to on any of your posts is this your choice or is it my computer gremlins again. Was just wondering where abouts in shropshire you fly? can PM me back if you dont want to advertise that fact given your recent "experience"
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