Alex Hasell

Andy Done my maiden today 6 flights in total what a buzz   how are you getting on?

agree with dave i've heard the same

Hello all, I haven't been flying long and have started with I.C but i always intended to do electric flight as well. My question is quite simple i have my eye on a kit  not an ARTF as i always wanted to build as well i'm looking into the future here but like to be prapared i'm considering EDF using a wemotec mini fan 68mm unit in a model weighing 1200g it say's that it runson a 480 size motor 40amp esc and 3 cell lipo of around 3200 mah capacity. I have no experience in electric flight as  i said so your thoughts about likely performance using this set up would be appriciated as well as what you would suggest to use say if i wanted to give it that bit extra....... its mainly chosing the motor that i am struggling with.. Regards, Alex

lol

Owen, see ya there lol Regards alex

pounland here i come

Strange! Are you sure i can mix aileron/rudder on both the mix channels on my DX6i

Timbo, your correct as usuall i was just reading my manual it is a waste of time fiddling with control serfaces just throttle should  of known that given that was my problem But i wouldn't worry about the "delay" that seems quite normal.

Glad you got it Eric Yeah have a good'n Rocket....

Martin, Know what you mean about those rides great for thinking arn't they I think that you might well of hit the nail on the head there i bet rebinding will sort your problem out, reason i thought of that was i had simillar problem with the throttle on mine as a beginner it took me ages to work it out! Any way please do post let me knoew how you get on. by the way what model is it? Regards Alex

Hi Yorkmwn, I have DX6i, Firstly i take it you have gone through the binding process with the gear installed in the model not just on the bench?? and have you centered the retract servo before you attatched any control horns? Have you checked the retracts are working normally when on? The switch on tx what posistion is it in when you switch on? Which Channel do you have the retracts Plugged into? My main thought is at the min, is if the servo is not quite centered properlly when you turn on, the servos will automatically "hunt" for the preset centre if it is not already there. Also for instance my servo's are centered and fail safe position is correc but when i turn on they move a few degrees and then recenter themselves automatically. Now i dont know how your retracts work if they are electric for example what could be happening is when you switch on  the servo is doing this movement, and your retracts work on a trigger switch system by that i mean its recieves an input (the movement) then either deploy's or recalls the UC theres no in between if follow me its either on or off maybe thats whats making them do this. Test your system try just switching the rx off then on again leave the tx off do they move?

Congrats Andy, Feels good to finish doesn't it you have your fiirst airplane sat there in all it's glory. The challenge is now to keep it that way LOL. And it's nice of you to say the above i'm pleased someone found it good and usefull i hope. I sympathise with you about the instructions there not that good are they although i have to say mine don't seem quite as bad as yours i think that Seagull are aware of the issue as i belive there instructions are improving from what i have seen and read of late. I think what happens is the kits are made then for instance yours could of been sat in its box for a long time before you brought it and for example my kit could of been build and dispacthed from the factory last month you just don't know do you but i think this is whats going on and the reason one person seem to get good instructions and another gets rubish ones. Although with time the "older" kits will be sold leaving only the ones with fresh instructions out there for the punter to buy. So when do you plan on flying it are you a clu member or are you going it alone? Regards Alex

Its all down to the dreaded Marketing Guru's of our consumer age i'm affraid, Apart from the slight differance's of say thin, medium and thick cayno, that's only really relevant to us "modler's" as Eric rightly says cayno is cayno. And i have used similar products myself and to be honest i think more of use should be aware of this as it can save a lot of money look and see for yourselves if you don't belive me i guarentee though what you won't belive after you have is how much you can really SAVE. 

Phil, I think the fact that trying to turn an engine over by hand during pre run checks would produce interesting results, certainly sounds at least if it had been left or abused to the extent that the bearings had rusted, therefore internal investigation would be the norm surley before you tried to run such an engine not least for safety's sake! upon which you would discover the "rusted" bearings you would then know the problem and therefore i for one would not use such an engine unless the problem was rectified. . Alex

Vegtable or olive sir???

Andy, Don't worry about it, The jumper and my plane are basically thesame just one slightly smaller trust me the rest is the same. How tight is tight welll all i will say is dont over do it finger tight then a nip with the driver will do  fine what you have done is strip the thread thats why it looks worn it is VERY easy to do watch those wheel collets you will find them very easy to strip as well. Strange about the fuel tube while i brought some meters as precaution with my kit there was a small length in the kit for use inside the tank between the clunk and fuel tube. Strongly recomend if you had this and used it dont stop and change it, its rubbish stuff it will go hard crack and come off in no time mine did after one tank of fuel. Just something to be aware 0f. I'm on the forum all the time Andy so if durring your build if you get stuck or are just not sure about something drop it on or you PM me i will gladly share what experience i have with you. Hope it all goes well, Alex 

Reg hi can i ask please the puss moth are you building it to a scale detailed level or are you not quite as ambitious as that please don' take that wrongly just not sure how else to say it. If you are or even if not maybe have you any research done on the original puss's like colours they were produced in by De Havillands or any general referance to the aircraft if so could you tell me where you got your information from please i'm trying to help a friend with his project Many thanks Alex ps tottaly ignore my comments on iron on covering above info is right as i have said not much experience personally on the matter it was just a suggestion

Andy, I agree totally the instructions are pretty useless i just built the slightly larger Seagull Boomerang and had same problems why not have a look at my blog on here its just under yours on main threads page i hope this will help you or if you need to now anything just ask i will watch your progress and get back to you. I am interested in how the jumper flys so keep in touch. Regards and Good Luck Alex

I found the same point interesting that the std charger that i BROUGHT and subsiquently returned was the wrong voltage!!! Guys if you take the tx apart the bat connectors which by the way arn't sprung units there solid bars can be removed easily from the back and then you can use a "pack" after soldering correct plug to tx leads of course. And you HAVE to remove the contacts to be able to fit a "pack" in anyway results in a very secure and IMHO a much safer and user freindly unit. Just my two pence worth, and what a great product. Regards Alex

yes please ill have it ta

Reg  i cant see how somee one can say it willnever fly its a bit strong. To me if its been built right and doesnt disobey the laws of physics or the principles of flight then theres no reason "anything" wont fly. If you have oput time in then go for it then you will know for yourself..besides if its a kit then i would think the designer ment it to fly and it probably will. Unfortunatelly i have no experience in rubber powered flying what so ever so i cant offer practicle advice im sorry. Can i ask why its rubber power flight you like? If its due to the building aspect and you wanted to try "powered" flight i.c or electric there are still many kits availiable to build or plans to build from scratch you dont have to go the ARTF route. If your interested sue we will be able to help you. Alex

dont think i would use any engine that had rusty bearings a you say only place that should fly is its self straight ito thenearest bin!!!!!!!!!!!

Reg have you thought about using a different covering maybe an iron on solarfilm for example i understand you are probably after vintage colours i think you will be surprised whats on offer these days. Alex