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Chris Bott - Moderator

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Everything posted by Chris Bott - Moderator

  1. Sorry Phil   Youve caught me working away from home so I cant weigh anything. I built it a number of years ago so cant remember either.   However its pretty easy these days to do a 40-50 size conversion at the same weight or lighter than the IC equivalent. And usually with more power too. It generally seems to hinge on the duration that you want. (more flight time = bigger batteries = more weight.)   I pretty exclusively use A123 batteries, as there are plenty of advantages over LiPo's and only a few disadvantages.   If you are interested, have a search on here for A123 and you'll see my name come up quite a few times
  2. Thanks Phil The Aircraft is a 3Styla from RCworld. see http://3styla.co.uk/ I converted it to electric adding a top battery hatch.   I don't think its available any more, it was a nice laser cut kit to build yourself. I guess that they have been undercut by ARTF's. Shame really. 
  3. Did this, and then didn't manage to get out to try them  
  4. Yep, its already happened in Whitehaven and the Selkirk area. Next to go is the West Country and then South Wales. The only complication is that you'll probably have to do two retunes.  In most places BBC2 Analogue will disappear and all BBC Digital wil go high power so you'll have to rescan once. Then 2 to 4 weeks later the rest of the Analogue will go and another rescan will be required to get all the other high power digital. Apparrently this will make it easier for people to understand !!!  For dates in your area see. http://www.digitaluk.co.uk/ Cheers Chris 
  5. David Terrestrial UHF TV has always been on Channels 21-68 and Microphones on Ch69. For TV that will not change.  However , when Digital Switchover comes to your area and you loose all analogue TV, the digital channels will be changed at the same time. The new Digital terrestrial will be a much higher power signal, and you will have to do a new channel scan on your TV/set top box. But you can do this yourself, in just a few minutes.
  6. Good luck Jon, hope it goes OK. I expect you'll be using different props with the two batteries? Have you tested curent draw is within motor and Speed controller spec with both batteries?  Hopefully my rule of 1A 123 cell per lb will work well for you. Let us know how it goes.
  7. Thanks Timbo thats a thought I'll send him an email. I've had some from Overlander but they are small offcuts, will be fine for AA's but a bit small for my application
  8. I have my hands on a battery tab welder, but I'm having lots of trouble sourcing any Pure Nickel tabs. They need to be thin sheet or strip but a bit bigger than the ones used on AA batteries, because I want to use them on A123's which are 25mm diameter.
  9. Tom I would think that the current goes up with bigger batteries purely because they can handle it. With the smaller ones it was the batteries that were limiting the current. I don't think you have been pushing the A123's too hard, I think you are right, you did some damage building the packs. It is to their credit that they still performed as they have. I make packs up, but I only use ready tagged cells and solder to the tags. These cells that have given up on me are ones that I had to solder to the ends of, because I ripped the tags off in a crash... I'd like to make a battery tab welder, but cant justify the expense on the large capacitors I need. No one would have a source of big electrolytics would they?
  10. Interesting Tom How old are they and how much use have they had? I keep mine full and charge them at 10A. Mind you I have no way of measuring IR so I only notice any degradation by performance or flight times. In fact I only probably notice when I try a new pack and see the difference. I'll be sticking with them though, mainly as all my models are 40 IC sized and above. Lifetime cost is far better than any of the LiPo's I've ever had.
  11. I got a YT International Iconic EP for Xmas Not had time to start building yet though Amazing composite (a moulded glass and Airex sandwich bonded together in a vacuum bag) fuselage and built up wings / tailplanes parts. The wings are plug in via a tube joiner, and the finish is simply stunning with all graphics pre applied and sealed. 51" Span, hopefully about 4Lb finnished.
  12. Thanks Doug Well done with the link   Yes very useful, I'll let you know what the Rx does in the new year when I have time to check with a 'scope. If the Rx puts supply volts out and no pulses until the Signal is locked, that could explain why some servos react differently to others. Still not sure it answers why my 2 ailerons act differently? They are identical servos but plugged into Ail and Aux channels. Could the 2 channels do different things?
  13. Thanks Frank. I have a 'scope (but no time this side of the new year now) I'll have a good look when I have a minute. Danny has suggested a difference between a UBEC coming up and using a Rx battery with its steady voltage. So I'll test that too. I'll report back, but it won't be for a week or two. (Family stuff from now 'till Sat, then off to Scotland for a week over new year Happy Christmas everyone Chris
  14. OK, just did a test or two on the twin. Currently: Throttle OP from the Rx goes via Y lead to the two ESC's 1. Switch Tx on for 20 seconds, then Rx (UBEC Powered). Servos twitch, 1 aileron goes to full travel. A second or so later they all go to fully trimmed centre. ESC's Beep "Armed" 2. With Rx on and working from Tx., Switch Tx off.  Nothing moves, motors stay stopped. 3. Switch Tx back on, Rx lights come back on quite quick. Absolutely no movement from anything until a stick is moved. Both Aileron servos are the same, they are in different chanels, so why does one go to full travel in test 1? Thanks for your interest Seasons Greetings Chris
  15. Thanks Timbo, I'll give those a good try tomorrow. Many thanks. I don't think it will be the failsafe positions, they certainly need setting up if they are! I'll let you know what happens. Frank you are probably right too. Different servos etc...  I thought the throttle channel gave out no pulses at all untill the correct Tx was received.   I thought I'd seen servos sit at dead centre before, and then move to their correct trim position once the signal is established. This twitch to one end must have been the Rx output however. It was enough to arm the speed controller, which requires a "low" throttle before it will "arm"
  16. I'm very very pleased with my Dx6i system and the various Rx's I've bought to go with it. I just have one niggle, on Rx switch on, all servos except throttle usually go to one end of travel and then back to center. Does anyone else's do this? On one model this pushes the servo beyond the max throw of the surface. more worryingly, I just completed a Conversion of a YT 3Demon to a twin (maybe another thread??) I used a mix of throttle to Aux to give me a second throttle output. Trouble is, I'm using a UBEC so motor power is available as soon as the power is applied. A quik blip of Aux to one end arms the ESC then dropping back to centre the motor starts at half throttle. As soon as the Tx and Rx "connect" throttle stops again but thats not the point. My fix has been to use a Y lead instead of the mix.
  17. Guessed so   How much!! That seems rather expensive?
  18. My Sanyos have been great (so far) Retain a charge for ages too. Have you tried those Rob?  Eneloops 4 x AA Not seen them yet as a made up Rx Pack. But wouldn't be surprised if they were available somewhere.
  19. Thanks Rob.  I remember that thread now! I must say I've had some Vapex instants and some sanyo eneloop instants and have been far more impressed with the Sanyos. 
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