Peter Phillips 2

 I have a mini Titan with the supplied motor and speed controller,I have had many flights,and many crashes. I can fly cautious circuits and figure eights and hover in all attitudes.  Occasionaly in the past ,a little more frequently recently, the power seems to pulse,the effect being you can hear the motor revving a little higher and the tail wagging a little side to side, about once or twice a second.  Increasing and then decreasing the throttle, to maintain altitude, seems to make this stop a short while but it invariably starts again, and then before you know it the power dies off and the helicopter plummets. I tend to stay low so this hasnt caused any major damage yet but the thing is, if I close the throttle and immediately take off again there is plenty of power left and can fly for another two or three minutes. Has anyone else experienced this or got any ideas what might be causing this.  Batteries are 3S1P 2150 impulse 16C and Kong power 3S1P 2200 26C and always have been

In the mean time a good simulator would be well worth investing in, about £100 would be money well spent and this will potentially save you hundreds of pounds in the long run.  

With the ease of operation brought about by electric setups why not go for a big twin, like  a " DH MOSQUITO"  or a "WESTLAND WHIRLWIND"   or a "GRUMMAN GOOSE" .  Does anybody remember " Tales of the Golden Monkey".

Thats just what i'm looking for right now

I have the law of averages on my side, I have to win sometime.

Did I mention its my birthday this month.

Its got to be me this time, Its my birthday and everything.

Please,please,Please,please,Please,please,Please,please,pleeeeeeeeaaaaaaassssse

     Thanks everyone, that seems to be sound advice that ties in with my own ideas. Mouldy's idle 1  setup sounds  the same as I have on my flight sim which did seem to need a little less rudder attention.      I think the Mini Titan can auto-rotate because there is a one way bearing ( the instructions offer a more comprehensive description ) which allows the main rotor, whilst still tied in with the tail rotor, to spin ( forwards ) independantly of the motor but engaging the motor when spun in reverse. Obviosly working in the opposite manner from the other end of the drive train.      So its the radio programing manual for me and a new set of throttle cuves to choose from. 1-2 degrees negative for normal flight and 10 degrees negative for when I can afford a complete rebuild.

  Having successfully completed my first boom-strike and ordered replacement parts for my TT Mini Titan, I find myself thinking more seriously about why the main blades are set at negative 10 degrees pitch when the throttle is set to zero. Possibly this is to allow auto-rotation, but is that really neccessary on an electric helicopter. My previous model was a TwisterCP V2 which gave a definite drop in power whilst allowing plenty of time to line up and land when the battery was pretty much spent. At the moment  I am just a learner so I am hovering in all attitudes around the garden, usualy in and out of  ground effect, and I suspect that the sudden negative pitch goes some way towards inducing the boom-strike when I get brain fade a bit too close to the shed and chop the throttle ( instincts from fixed wing experience ) I realise that an opposite panic response needs to be learnt to persist with helis , but can anyone shed any light on why this setup is called for.

Thats a pretty little aeroplane, would look good in my shed.

I was so sure I was going to win the last one I did'nt think I would need to enter again, Ho Hum.

First time lucky, got just the engine for this one, stashed away somewhere.