stuey
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Everything posted by stuey
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This is why I have fitted 2 Futaba HD switches to my Sea Fury. If one fails I still have a chance on the second one!
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Belly landing a good few edf models as I have, I would say you need some structural reinforcement rather than a clear coating like poly c. I have used glass cloth and epoxy which is wearing well, but that is on polystyrene foam not epo which may not adhere very well.
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Here is my solution taped in place, going through a new hole in the firewall. The box will be supported by strips top and bottom and strapped on to be removeable. The battery will be held in at the front by a small nylon tie. It wont be flapping around in there!
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I have decided to go with a ply box fixed to the side ala Greybeard. It is being lined with 2mm foam rubber with a thicker piece at the bottom and will be a snug sliding fit. Thanks for your input
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Who is still flying 'Classic' electric airframes?
stuey replied to stuey's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
So you have all the Balsacraft kits then! Its a shame they have not been brought back in some form. I would like a chance to try out a Bearcat with modern gear. -
Hi chaps, after some advice/reassurance. I have mounted the 5 cell sub-c RX pack for my Seagull Sea Fury on the engine box, in an attempt to try and avoid adding any extra nose weight. It is cable tied down, with some 7-8mm thick foam rubber in between and is supported along its entire length. It stays put fine, I am worried about the amount of vibration it is subjected to. I have had a couple of sessions to run in the SC 1.08 two stroke, which runs much better when the bottom end needle allows fuel to flow! (set wrong from the factory). I noticed that the front of the pack was vibrating at some throttle settings, as the cable ties had not been on long and seem to settle and require a little tightening. I cant get another round the front cell, and the other two are sitting in the slight dip in between the cells which stops is sliding forward. My main worry is not the battery coming loose, but that over time the vibration will cause fatigue in a joint and failure. All the cables coming out are silicone and sealed with more silicone at the exit. Edited By stuey on 26/06/2013 19:29:27 Edited By stuey on 26/06/2013 19:30:14
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Who is still flying 'Classic' electric airframes?
stuey replied to stuey's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
Seems like a few of us still have some older models on the books then! I did look at the Liposhield but I couldnt find a UK supplier, and it may end up expensive to order from the States. Thanks for the info though -
You have been bloomin lucky then! My E-Flite Hurricane shed its exhausts (luckily found) due to a poor spinner/prop driver. I did do the prop but in the air it must have hit a sweet spot.
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Who is still flying 'Classic' electric airframes?
stuey replied to stuey's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
I would say a Mk.1 Twinstar counts Frank! Models had become decent flyers by that point, not sure what my Dad ended up doing with his. We also had a couple of Picojets, one he flew the other day. Oh yeah and a Twinjet. I never quite got round to buying a T-33 (not cheap), there were a lot of people trying to squeeze more efficiency out of the ducting to get better performance. Would be easy these days, a Minifan and 3 or 4S and your away! I still have a brand new fan/AP29L in a drawer at home. Dont know the Phase 3 Chipmunk tbh, but a lot of older designs would be in a different league now. The only thing is considering the battery pack if old Nicads/NiMh were used for cg purposes. Another thing that just occured to me, with the event of 2.4ghz how much easier it is to avoid glitching these days. My Phase 3 F-16 nearly came a cropper first time out with a Schulze 35meg, despite my best efforts to avoid it. Prompted me to go 2.4!! -
I have been reading Nigel Hawes exploits with interest as he flies electric airframes and power trains from the old days of electric. As someone who has flown and built a couple of these (MFA Magicfly and Balsacraft Bearcat) amongst a few others, I was wondering who else has older electrics still flying or hanging around? When I say 'classic' I dont mean vintage as such, more the models from the brushed/ni-cad days and the dawn of brushless motors. I still have a few bits knocking around, including a Multiplex Skycat, Scorpio ThreeDee and a Kyosho F-16. I have been pondering a brushless upgrade for the F-16, even though it has a Plettenberg 200-25-4 and a Minifan. I havent been able to find a 40-50A brushed controller that is li-po friendly. What do you have knocking about guys?
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I bought a Du-Bro balancer so I could balance spinners too. You can arrange it so the balance shaft hangs out to one side rather than being suspended in the middle. I found one of the Ali backed Irvine spinners needed some work to get right. Still runs out of true at the tip mind...
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Two li-fe packs would probably be the lightweight ticket if the servos can handle the voltage these days.
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Looks like a little cracker to me, I do like the 190. My P-47 is a great little flyer, expect this will be too.
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I know what you mean Danny been there done that!
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Hi chaps, I need to fit my sub-c RX pack onto the engine box of my Sea Fury for cg purposes. It is covered in heat shrink and I have some thin foam sheet to make a pad for it to sit on. Not near the engine so heat should be ok, more worried about protecting it from excessive vibration. Will a few layers of the foam be ok to give some isolation?
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Good to see it went well, nice looking model. Like Danny said if you can knock the diameter down slightly and keep the performance you want all the better
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Agree with Tim good choice
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Sorry Djay brain drain on my behalf!
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What size/weight is the model? If it is around 60 inch .50-60 ic sized model, I would have thought you would be aiming for at least 700-800 watts? Edited By stuey on 02/06/2013 21:20:25
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Thanks Tony
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Any chance of a link to the retracts?
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Hi Tony, could you give some details on the electric retracts and oleos please?
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I have the asp61fs in my Kyosho Spit. It flies it well enough, a tad more would be nice but not essential. I imagine the Hurri is a size up from my Spit, so I would go for a 70 or maybe the 80 if it is any good.
