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How to destroy your best plane in one easy lesson.


Flanker .
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Sorry to hear that..
 
I've seen enuf Youtube vids of Heli's Lipos flying out, that mine are strapped to death..
 
I always use the rolls of self-adhesive type velcro on the lipo and tray, but the glue can come off the velcro strip, so I also put two velcro straps round the whole lot. The straps I use are available from Maplin.
 
On Friday, I found the 1300 3s off my foamie, sitting on the bench after it fell off it's velcro, i.e. both bits of velcro still on plane..!! So a little CA usually helps after this happens.. The straps will stop the batt falling off mid-flight, cuz theres still enuf sticky left to stop slippage..
 
Luv
Chrisie.. xx

Edited By Cyclicscooby on 20/06/2011 16:56:42

Edited By Cyclicscooby on 20/06/2011 16:57:32

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  • 4 months later...
Or you can use heatshrink arounf the connectors......
 
A method I have started using (after I managed to cut through the wires of a servo whilst removing the heatsrink I had fitted around the connectors) is to tie a loop of kevlar around the connectors (pasing between the wires on both plug & socket ends) I tie a double knot pulled tight to prevent the connectors separating & seal the knot with a tiny drop of cyano......this method is secure, light, costs nowt & is easy to cut away when you want to separate the connectors......
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Thats true Wingman......I'm a bit spoiled because I have a reel of kevlar that my Dad liberated from his work many, many moons ago. They used to use it for braiding lightweight hydraulic hoses......
 
I guess any strongish thread could be used.....its not going to be under much load after all......the trick is to secure the knot with cyano so it doesn't come undone....
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Yes, indeed Steve, as I said in the post above, I’ve used lacing twine for years. Or standard kitchen string would be a perfect substitute. If you use a constrictor knot to secure you would never be able to undo it, but I use the simple overhand knot and you also have to cut the tie here as well if you want to split the plug and socket. This would easily support the weight of ten batteries swinging on the loom.
Alternatively, and I’ve mentioned this before, too, a little staggered soldered joint, battery to switch harness, is good, with a piece of clean fuel tubing slid over; takes but a couple of minutes to do and the permanency of the circuit is guaranteed; for the life of the pack if needs be; in some tests that I’ve done previously the wire always breaks before the soldered join gives way!


Actually, the electrical insulating properties of heatshrink are relatively not always that good, and I think I might feel that the mechanical strength could be slightly suspect, too. As always, if I were to use this to support joints I would give it a bit of a yanking first, just to see what happened.

PB
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