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Windrider Beevo Covering


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Hi guys
 
Thought I'd ask you experienced sloping chaps for your thoughts on the following.
 
I've just ordered the Windrider Beevolution chevron type 48" wing. The spec shows it as coming out at a weight of 18oz but I'd like to increase this for better penetration in heavier winds.
 
I read on another blog a guy who double layered the GF tape before covering in Ultracoat. His model came out at 27oz and he said it flies great in 7 - 35mph winds and DS's nicely, so I'm thinking of doing the same with the GF tape but covering in Solartex, which seems to be the covering of choice by Ron Broughton.
 
What do you think guys?
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On my EPP Jart I covered the wings in both CW tape and brown paper applied with PVA...
 
But you should ask yourself if you really want to load up this model. You've not flown it yet - so you don't know it's characteristics. Also, not all models like being loaded up. It can upset them. Generally they are designed with a wing loading in mind. My Wildthing flies in a wide range of wind speeds without modification.
 
If you must increase the loading why not consider some kind of ballast provision as you build it?
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Steve,
 
The GF tape is fairly heavy and Solartex, although very tough, is heavier than Solarfilm or Profilm.
 
Hence, using the Solartex will increase the weight.
 
As Matthew says, unless you fully know the characteristics of the model, it is better to build it as it was designed and make some provision so that you can add ballast directly on the C of G.
 
You then have the best of both worlds - a fairly light model for low winds and the ability to ballast it for improved penetration and speed in a strong blow.
 
I did this with my Fusion and ended up keeping 4oz of ballast in it all the time, but before adding the ballast I did have the opportunity to identify the model's characteristics without any.
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Just a tip with the covering ,the new stuff as we call it, which real name is laminating flim is the ducks guts for foam you dont even need Fibre tape as is structurally solid all by its self
A lot of the guys are now using the coloured packing tape and then covering with lam film.
I'm currently building a prototype 2.4 mtr span foamie for a New Zealand Manufacturer the wing as supplied had 1x 6.35mm carbon tube spar and the wing is so thin you could see through it .I didn't think I could get the wing stiff enough span wise to make it viable
however I fully fibre taped it and then applied a full covering on 25 micron Laminating film
and the wing panels are like ironing boards. it applies exactly the same as any other heat shrink film but far far stronger.
Oh BTW the Bee can and does fly heavy in fact some of the guys here DS them. If you google up the Predator Bee Mods you will find a whole new world of the ability of the bee.
Ming is one of our many sponsors for the Manilla slope fest down here and the are a much sort after prize in the last man standing combat event You'll enjoy it they fly very well indeed.
 
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Just been reading some of the Predator Bee stuff, now that is extreme and not sure I want to go that far for pleasure flying but I do like the idea of the laminating film. I have heard of it but not researched it. Guess thats my job for tomorrow whilst at work . I can't say I've seen it advertised on the model web sites so will have to do some deeper searching.
 
Thanks for the heads up on that though Stephen
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No problem ,your more likely to find Lam film at office supply's than a hobby shop
You can get from a fellow flyer in New Zealand through online purchase if you cant find it
he also has Orcal vinyl which is supper tough covering in any colour you can think of
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get the 125micron stuff as the 175 is HEAVY and hard to put on
 
If you go on the barcs web site theres at least 3 people that can sell you enough to do the job rather than buying 50m of the stuff
 
Lee
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The SAS stuff doesnt suggest using spray glue either - I think the reason is twofold.
1) assuming release agent is cleaned off first, it doesnt need it
2) If you need to strip and recover....itll never come off !
 
The only wing I have that suggested using spray glue for the tape, is the flying-wings Slipstream.
I used it, and I hate the stuff - gets everywhere
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Thats the stuff remember you want 125 micron for the best result , and use a normal iron not a small covering one ! make sure swimbo ain't around though lol
 
Lee
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Posted by Tim Mackey - Administrator on 08/07/2011 12:26:07:
The SAS stuff doesnt suggest using spray glue either - I think the reason is twofold.
1) assuming release agent is cleaned off first, it doesnt need it
2) If you need to strip and recover....itll never come off !
 
The only wing I have that suggested using spray glue for the tape, is the flying-wings Slipstream.
I used it, and I hate the stuff - gets everywhere

I used it on my flying wings Hawk and didn't like it much either but when I tried to cover the fus with the GF tape without using the 77, it wouldn't stick to the foam, overnight the tape pulled away from the foam so ended up having to use it. So I was pleasantly surprised when I didn't have the same problem with the WT. I'm wondering if the foam is different?

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Yes, there are definately different types of EPP - I had similar issues with a review model I did some time back - the Canterbury sailplanes Falcon. The EPP that Alan head supplies with the SAS stuff seems to readily accept the tape without any glue, others dont.
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With the 3M77 stuff a lot of people rush it , you don't need to .
 
spray the model then leave it for 30mins , let all the solvent evaporate , then its much easier not to get covered in the stuff and works as well if not better.
 
Lee
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The build instructions for my Hawk, which was the 1st slopey I built, said to spray the wing thoroughly with the glue then using the 50mm strapping tape, tape as shown. It didn't say anything about letting the glue dry, which I have since read elsewhere is the case. So of course I was thinking that the glue was required to help stick the tape to the foam. Doh.
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As Lee said let it dry , I always use Spray adhesive on the foam for the fibre tape to adhere to it is also wiseto wipe the fibre tape down with a cloth with a light moistening of acetone
to remove the release agent from the back side of the fibre tape ,you know the stuff thats tops it sticking together on the rolls .I use 125 Micron Lamin film with my standard heat sealing iron set on high with out any problem . And it sticks like sea gull poo on a beach towel. the latest covering I'm using is oracal PVC vinyl which is the sign writing vinyl ,absolutey the bee's knees for covering and adding strength and stiffness to foam.
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Well I've made a start on the Beevo and already deviated from the instructions which say to cut a slot along the marked line in the foam to insert the 3mm ribbon spar. Due to the V shape this would mean cutting both the top and bottom spars in two, so I have cut an arch in the foam so that I don't have to cut it and hopefully, leaving the spars in one piece will increase the strength slightly.
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  • 2 years later...

Some time ago now Steve but how did you go on with the Beevo?

I've just got the Hobby King Wicked Wing which it seems is a Windrider Bee2. I need something for when there isn't enough wind for the Fusion so will probably build lighter rather than heavier.

Ian

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