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Ian Jones

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Everything posted by Ian Jones

  1. Hmm, s'pose I've just opened up a old new poll . Having said that, the future looks somewhat clearer now and I wonder how much that affects everyone's responses?
  2. I've said, " yes, fewer events going forward" because that's nearest to my thoughts. "Going forward" seems rather long term to me. Really though, my own answer is no events until I feel safe. For all I know that could be later on in 2021, which isn't so far off. Just my way of thinking perhaps.
  3. Ian Jones

    Weasel Carr

    Nice to see you back, I should follow suit really as I've been a bit quiet of late.
  4. Varifocals for me, they take some getting used to but once you've "run them in", they are great. Consider options too, like anti glare, and light reactive lenses (instead having seperate sunglasses). They always seem expensive when you get the quote but then when you u consider the the cost of seperate sunglasses, and reading glasses and the value of the convenience it's not so bad.
  5. Posted by David Ashby - Moderator on 09/01/2021 19:07:05: Found this fella in the garden a few weeks ago. Hmm, I don't think that's a palmate newt David, so that makes it a smooth (AKA common) newt.
  6. Posted by john stones 1 Moderator on 30/12/2020 19:29:10: Posted by Ian Jones on 30/12/2020 19:27:06: Not a recent photo but lots of snow. A66 near Whitbarrow looking towards Great Mell Fell. Good one. Thank you
  7. Not a recent photo but lots of snow. A66 near Whitbarrow looking towards Great Mell Fell.
  8. It looks like a simple part to print, so as previously mentioned it's just a question of scale. With regard to the title of this thread, the simple answer is yes, Thingiverse is wonderful, there's a huge range of files available for 3D printing. I would add the reservations mentioned by others regarding specific printers, scale and quality of some designers, however most of those matters exist wherever you look. The problem comes with not working and printing the files yourself as this means you do not have the opportunity to adjust or redesign prints. So if you have considered getting a 3D printer then perhaps the time has arrived! It might worth reminding forumites that we have our own user group on Thingiverse so that we can share prints Please feel free to add your own designs, it's quite straightforward. All you have to do is register with Thingiverse and you are then able to add your designs (STL files plus supporting photos if you wish) and make them available to the group in the "Tell Us More" part of the design's information. So here it is: RC flying models
  9. Ian Jones

    Nozzles

    Posted by MaL on 17/02/2019 10:34:35: What benefit would a titanium alloy nozzle give over a plain and simple one?..... what are normal ones made from? nickel plated steel? Old post but worth answering. In general use for printing plastics, no benefit at all. However, there's lots of filaments that can wear a nozzle down pretty quick, in particular metallised ones and carbon fibre.
  10. Posted by Anthony Scott 2 on 29/08/2020 15:28:01: These are very good & very good value. **LINK** Those hobbyking transmitter cases are good, I have several. Inside I also use a couple of 3D printed stick protectors: 1, as a single piece 2. As individual protectors.   Although these primarily protect the Tx sticks, the provide overall rigidity so also give some protection for switches. If you are in touch with someone that can print them for you then they may be worth considering. Edited By Ian Jones on 29/08/2020 16:38:30
  11. Calibrating the dual nozzles for x & Y axis Anyone been having trouble calibration the dual nozzles, well I have. Reliable sources on the internet are hard to find, especially specific to this printer and the instructions that came with the printer don't help much either. However today, I beleive I have cracked it and so I offer my solution to those equally lost. switch on the printer and go to the settings menu go to item 10 in the setting menu "Offeset and Calibration" Ignore the home offests for X and Y Observe the Dual Extruder Offsets, both X & Y will be on 7, this is the default setting and will always be the case when you visit this setting. Select to print the "Print Calibration sample" When it is finished look at the printout from the front of the machine. The horizontal lines are the Y axis and the vertical lines are the X axis. If points 7 on both axis are correctly lined up, then there's nothing to be done. Which horizontal lines lines are most closely aligned with each other? If for example it's 8 then enter 8 into the Y axis offset. Repeat the procedure for 7 above with the x axis. exit settings Switch the machine off for a few moments. switch the machine back on and print the calibration sample again, if points 7 on both axis are correctly lined up, then it's job done. The Y axis on mine was so far out that I had to repeat this process 3 times, so if that's necessary then don't be alarmed.
  12. The second extruder that I am not even using and has it's temperature set to 0 in the slicer (Makerbot and Simplify 3D), heats up to the same temperature as as the extruder in use. It also tries to feed filament in exactly the same way as the extruder that is in use, when it should not be feeding any filament at all. I don't honsestly know if this has happened from new or not but I don't seem to be able to stop it!
  13. Posted by Ian Jones on 14/07/2020 19:24:32: Last year I converted my 16 years old Tutor 40 to VTOL for it's final and unplanned landing . That shortened it considerably and what could be saved was consigned to the spares store. I always like to have a trainer to play with so sought a replacement, which courtesy of a seller on Ebay I now have. Though it's hardly been flown it did have it's noseleg "locked off", which is an absolute pain. The problem with 3D printing the required steering arm and mount was that it would need to be highly durable so the usual PLA was not even worth considering at all. ABS would be better but nylon better still. Well I bit the bullet, did some research and to my surprise my first nylon printed failed due to a filament snag and then success came at the second attempt. This is going to be a game changer for my future modelling needs. So here is the completed assembly: The was also an issue with the push rods, one of them rattling against it's nearest former so decided to convert to snakes (as I did with the original). This time using ABS I made some push rod/snake exit covers. STL and Simplify 3D factory files are now included in our group at **LINK** Steering assembly **LINK** Exit covers **LINK**
  14. I've trained newbies on both and also the Irvine Tutor 40 (I & II). By far the best was the Tutor 40 but a very, very close 2nd was the Boomerang. Tutor 40 is no longer available so it's the Boomerang, which incidently I used for my B test. With the CG set correctly (that is, not nose heavy) it has a plenty long enough glide for landing and as has already been stated is better suited to windy conditions.
  15. Last year I converted my 16 years old Tutor 40 to VTOL for it's final and unplanned landing . That shortened it considerably and what could be saved was consigned to the spares store. I always like to have a trainer to play with so sought a replacement, which courtesy of a seller on Ebay I now have. Though it's hardly been flown it did have it's noseleg "locked off", which is an absolute pain. The problem with 3D printing the required steering arm and mount was that it would need to be highly durable so the usual PLA was not even worth considering at all. ABS would be better but nylon better still. Well I bit the bullet, did some research and to my surprise my first nylon printed failed due to a filament snag and then success came at the second attempt. This is going to be a game changer for my future modelling needs. So here is the completed assembly: The was also an issue with the push rods, one of them rattling against it's nearest former so decided to convert to snakes (as I did with the original). This time using ABS I made some push rod/snake exit covers.
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  20. Yep, me too, same Prusa design.
  21. I think you did Kevin but it's nice to be reminded how versitile 3D printing is. Those nose cones - could be quite heavy, what did you use and how did you print the sides?
  22. This should do: **LINK** The previous one would do a text copy and paste but for some reason the link itself had the ":" removed, anyway, unless it get's removed again then this one should work. Update This one does work Edited By Ian Jones on 01/02/2020 14:55:14
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