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Lipo battery to Esc Connectors.


Ross Clarkson
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I use a 45w weller, which sufices for model stuff, and a 100W weller, which'll solder a real cars battery lead.. BUT beware, Weller is very expensive, and other makes are available far cheaper..
 
I used to use Deans on my 400 Heli, but also found then to be an awful connector to use.. Too tight to pull apart, and the soldered ends have zero insulation, leaving it upto you to make it safe..
I now use Powerpole connectors on everything RC.. The ones I use are rated at 75A which is fine for my stuff, but you can get upto 180A versions.. After that i'd use proper Anderson grey to grey connectors..
 
Luv
Chrisie.. xx
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It may be that the wires from the power supply to the charger are too thin and offering too much resistance. Try charging at 1/2 C, ie half your charging amperage and see if that helps. Do the wires become warm? You might find that thicker wires solves the problem.
 
Pete
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In an earlier post, someone suggested holding the connector in a vice or pair of pliers while soldering. IME this is a recipe for poor joints as the pliers or vice act as heat sinks conducting heat away from the connector.
 
My solution is to use either a wooden spring clothes peg to hole the connector - I'm using EC3s. The alternative is to drill a hole in a piece of wood which just holds the connector leaving sufficient exposed to make contact with the soldering iron.
 
Malcolm
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I mentoned the pliers, but not very clearly..
 
You only hold the insulation, not the bare wire, about an inch or so down.. YES it will act as a sink, but thats a good thing, as it stops unwanted heat transfer + melted insulation..
I solder my powerpoles, and bullets directly in the vice, but, I have a decent iron.
 
 
Luv
Chrisie.. xx
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Hi guys,
Thanks for all your help.
I have bought an 80w Iron for £16 at Alshobbies so that should help.
Totally agree about the pliers as well, they were getting very hot which makes sense that the heat is taken away from the joint.
 
Thanks Pete, charging issue all sorted, just put it on 1.1 instead of 2.2 and this has solved it.
 
Thanks all. When i get my new stuff and decided to change to EC3's, i will update this thread.
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Well, seems i failed!!!!
 
All seemed well, went to the local football pitches all raring to go for the maiden.
Connected battery and then when placing battery in correct position, nothing!!!!! A quick wiggle of the ESC wires and after an intermittent on and off, clearly i had not done a good enough job!
Oh well, will await my EC3 connectors that i have ordered and sulk a little!
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Hi,
My EC3 connectors and 80W Iron came today.
Only problem is, the Iron has come with a bent sort of flathead screwdriver bit!!!! Do you think this will be ok for soldering EC3's?
 
Also, any tips on soldering EC3's would be greatly accepted. I am going to be using the block of wood method with holes drilled in.
When i tin the wires and connectors, do i touch the Iron with the Solder or should i let the heat from the iron applied to wires/connector melt the Solder?
Then, once tinned is it the same technique, heat the connector up until the solder melts and the joint is made?
 
Thanks,
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Fitted my EC3 connectors today.
Wow, an absolute breeze with my new hotter Iron and these connectors.
Took me 30mins to do 2 x batteries and an ESC.
 
Deans are definitely not for me!!!
 
Also, flew my Parkzone Extra 300 after, first flying since April. Awesome.
 
Thanks for all your help guys and gals, couldn't have done it without you.
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