Tom Wright 2 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 When making the flapper plate also make a washer from scrap GF diameter 25mm with a hole in the center 6mm clearance. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 12/01/2012 22:09:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Lightly sand both faces of the plate and washer,do this outside and wear a mask . Cyno the washer on center with the rotor shaft hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Use a trace of cyno to tack the bearing housing to the plate on the opposite side to the washer. It is very important to position the housing in alignment with the hole in the flapper plate. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 12/01/2012 22:33:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I did look at the photos of the head and wonder why there was only one supporting plate? Or have I missed something else.I need to get a check in the post to you Tom, thanks for the bits.I considered using this little gearbox, which I actually bought for another build.Was just going to fit a collet style prop nut on the top and job done. Will follow your lead Tom, but thought this might be of interest. Can dig out where I bought it from if it's of interest.No progress on mine, might get a bit done at the weekend, maybe. Could I ask for a sneak shot of how the servos orientate in those bearers, so I can check a few things before glueing in place.Cheers,SimonEdited By simon burch on 12/01/2012 22:35:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Drill through the three holes in the housing ,I used a 2mm drill . Insall three 12mm x 2mm bolts and add washers and nuts on the other side, use a trace of thread loc or nyloc nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Hi Simon I hope the head and bearing housing assembly to the flapper plate is clear now my method has been posted. I have not installed the servos yet as this comes in the final assembly,will get a photo of them in position in the next post. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Preview for Simon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 The two bearing can now be loaded into the top of the housing ,and the spacer fitted to the opposite side . Tighten the grub screws in the housing and spacer. This completes the flapper plate, housing ,bearings, and spacer assembly ready for bolting to the control head with a 3mm bolt. Side view photo to follow. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 12/01/2012 23:20:21Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 12/01/2012 23:23:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi Simon. If that's a 3mm or 4mm shaft it will be fine for the Crane Fly,For light models I normally remove the spacers and cog and sandwich the flapper in between. Tom.Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 13/01/2012 00:10:10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Crane Fly Bottom view of completed flapper plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Lewis Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi Tom, Just wanted to say i'm watching this with interest and when my build table is clear, this will be my next project. Probably not for a few months yet though. Thanks for sharing it with us. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi Rob. Welcolm to the thread ,and thanks for taking the trouble to post ,wish more looking in would do the same.. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Sorry Tom, I can't quite see how that head is spinning on the bolt. What is stopping it rubbing on the lower spacer?What is that spindle in the other picture, are we supposed to be using part of it? Do you have a link?Cheers,Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Hi Simon. If you have the spacer the correct way up the face is machined to run against the center bearing ring .The top of the 3mm machine bolt does the same on the top bearing.The inner bearing ring remains stationary and the head turns on the outer ring.The result is very free running . The answer to your last question has already been posted the part used as the spacer comes with the shaft which is not used . Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Just to follow on from the last post .....If anyone wants to use a different spacer instead of the one described ,the requirements are... id 3mm od not to exceed 4mm ,length not critical can be between 5mm and 10mm ,the 3mm rotor bolt length of course will have to be adjusted to suit . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Link for component used for bearing housing.bearing housing . Link for bottom spacer please note this item is supplied with a shaft that is not needed for the Crane Fly build,but is a handy addition for the motor spares box. Tom. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 14/01/2012 04:16:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Rich is kindly drawing up the head and flapper plate as a pdf file if anyone wants a copy please pm me and include your e mail address. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Hi Tom, I'm still here. Work is getting in the way of modelling at the moment. I'm getting upto date with the thread tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm - coolwind.co.uk Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Tom, really enjoying watching the progress on this build. Hope to get mine started in the next few days. Thanks for putting my name on the 'waiting list' for your parts Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Our cam man Stuart was at the field today and got this footage of Pete's new pusher design which under the covers has several "Crane Fly" features. My first carbon prototype version of the the "Crane Fly"is seen in the second half. It was a great afternoons flying Fred and Stuart both flew my model ,but its hands off Pete's Snoopy at the moment as its his new baby,mind you later in the day he did hand the TX over to me and I can confirm its a very easy to fly model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Taking advantage of this great flying weather ,and have evening engagements for a day or two so hoping to get back to the "Crane Fly" build early next week. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Both looking really good. I assume I've got some nice tear drop shaped fuz sides to add to mine at some point?Was thinking of adding a rudder on a closed loop, but the model doesnt seem to need much of a drive around on the floor to get the head spinning.Not done anything on mine as this weekend has been spent flying my heli's, getting some fresh air and trying not to think about work.Need to get in the shed and knock out the 1/8 ply parts so I can crack on with the head.CheersSimon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Hi Simon A rudder can be very usefull ,but ground steering is not a issue even in dead calm weather ,a bit of breeze and models like the Crane Fly are off in a trice. Rotor turns can be very flat if the elevator is used correctly ,a rudder allows pirouette style turns, but I would suggest the model is flown as is, and a rudder added when the pilot is really comfortable with flying such machines.The same applies to the teardrop sides add them after test flying and full familiarisation, after all its one more thing to mend if things don't go well at the trimming or getting used to the characteristics stage. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Before anyone starts fitting the bearings and housing to the flapper tri plate I am just about to consider a change to the assembly that will avoid fixing the bearings with thread lock or cyno and reduce the obstructions on top of the flapper plate . This further reduces the chance of damage due to repeated blade strikes. Strangely an ultra simple alternative is staring me in the face in that the spacer component could be used as a plain bearing as it comes with a flanged top and wide nut ,so it could be placed through the flapper plate central hole and fixed with the nut underneath job done. I have flown plain bearings without a problem but would prefer to post a simple twin bearing set up as this is the norm.Will post an update when the flange bearings arrive. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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