Martyn K Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I note that BB got a very nice tweet on twitter.. excellent. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben B Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Ooooh I like, thanks for sharing and for going to the effort of doing the tutorial. I was going to try hand-painting the fin numbers on my Funfighter but I'm not sure I will bother now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Thanks for the kind comments everyone, It really was very easy and another tool to use. I cant wait to get on with the new workshop now and put some of my IC motors to good use. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 Hi All, Just a point Ady Hayward raised regarding the transfers sometimes lifting around the edges. I left the old cowl in the shed with no protection in direct sunlight, just to see. True enough there was a bit of lifting like I remember the old Airfix model transfers doing after some time. Andy also metioned Hombrol Decalfix, I've never used it, but I'll try to get some. In the meantime; The result of direct sunlight through the shed window with no protection on the transfer. The fix was to use a very weak PVA, Ponal in this case from the BMFA office that I use for the education scheme models. I just apply it with a small brush under the lifted edges and then wipe the transfer down with a damp tissue. This transfer was first applied direct onto litespan with no prior treatment, a quick spray with fuel proofer will see it sealed properly. I would imagine any PVA will do the job Cheers, Chris. Edited By Big Bandit on 26/05/2012 00:07:08 Edited By Big Bandit on 26/05/2012 00:08:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Hayden Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Hi Chris, Brilliant thread, As i have said before your too clever for your own good. Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Hi Tony, and welcome to the forum. I think you'll find where're a friendly bunch and as long as the idea is of use to someone, or they can develop it for everyone's use I'll be happy. Give us a shout if you need some transfers for one of your projects as long as it's not a 1/4 scale Victor tanker or 1/4 scale Slingsby Tandem tutor, in which case you may need to speak to Ash at the Leicester Sign Company. Ash How about a 20 or 25 powered Fun Fighter for the 2013 season . Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Peacock Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I only just found this thread and thought that I may be able to assist with logos, etc. I have artwork available for several 'vintage' logos, e.g. Frog Keil-Kraft Veron Mercury Cox Oliver Tiger SMAE Lazy-Bee most of which are in various sizes and colour schemes. PM me if you want a copy of any for making your own transfers, and ask if you need any others - I may be able to track them down for you. I will need details of the size required if you can't scale them yourself. File formats will be in .gif, .jpg or .pdf (other formats may be possible). I will also laser-print transfers for you if necessary - again, just PM me. I have to charge for this service (cost of transfer paper, printing + postage, etc). Just ask. I also create 'custom' logos/transfers to your requirement, any design considered - send me details of your requirements for more information. Note: maximum size for transfers is an A4 sheet and can be printed onto clear or white backing. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Hi. I have been using this method for some years and find it works really well. I find it most useful for making all that text type logos / signs / warnings that we find all over scale models. Where did you find that logo file shown in the article? I usually draw mine from scratch if I can’t find them on the net using coral draw. Cheers. Kevin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Kev...you may not be aware so I apologise for being the bringer of sad news but Chris Jordan (or Big Bandit as he was known) who was the author of this "How To" passed away a short time ago.... A sad loss to the forum & to all who knew him. Other members may be able to point you in the right direction for such logos but I think most can be found on Google... Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 Kev some of the logos Chris used are available on this page at Vintage Model Works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rieder Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Hi thanks for this, works really well, if your interested have a look at my photos as there are ones of the decals I have added to my Seafury and Reno 3. It would be great to build up a log of where to get the logs from etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc brown Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I seen some of the transfer papers like this in whsmiths. I didn't think of it. Will have look again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelly Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I use this supplier for white and clear transfer paper **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted July 2, 2014 Share Posted July 2, 2014 A really old fashioned way is to use gummed paper - the sort you lick to stick On the Gum Side draw the design you want Tape the label down so its reasonably taut Over pain the design with clear dope (this will form the layer that is in contact with the model) Paint on the design you want on top of the dried dope Cut out the transfer leaving a little margin of clear dope Dunk the whole thing in warm water and use exactly as water-slide transfers as the gum will soften rapidly allowing the dope "carrier" to slide off onto the model I guess you could print onto a doped gummed label to bring it into the 21st century! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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