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Hi all,as I have not yet joined the 21st century, you may find this question old hat. Does a brand new JP 400 brushed motor require running in, and if so how do I go about it .Cheers  ps,main reason for question is that I fly on 35Mhz.

Edited By fly boy3 on 13/06/2012 21:01:04

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Nope. I'd just fly it until you want more power and then go brushless. You can "wear in" a motor inserted into a jar of water in order to get the commutator to shape but it's not worth it IMHO, brushed motors just aren't worth lots of effort. Brushless motors and ESCs are so cheap it's not worth persisting with brushless. Not sure why 35Mhz means brushed........

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Hi Ben, thanks for the reply. My new electric glider the Cherub comes with a brushed motor JP 400. I intend to use it when learning to glide. (1st glider) will update when possible. As a newbie to electrics I have read that there possibly could be a potential problem with 35Mhz and interference from commutation. Cheers FB3

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You can get glitches with brushed or brushless motors on 35mhz,you need to keep the receiver as far away from the motor and the esc which helps,but you can still get some interference. 2.4ghz radio is ,i am afraid,the best solution.

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Funny how quick we are now to denigrate the stuff we leccyfliers all flew happily for years. Yesterday, for fun, I had a LiPo-free day and spent a really enjoyable afternoon flying my GWS Zero and Multiplex Twinstar on my old NiCads and NiMh batteries. The Twinstar still flies fine on its stock brushed motors included in the kit, (as did the Zero until the gearbox failed and I then put a brushless bell motor in it).

Brushed motors are still much cheaper than most brushless and so long as you fit the suppressors which usually come with them (often already fitted these days), you shouldn't have much problem with glitches on 35Mhz. If you do, try wrapping the receiver (not the antenna of course) in oven-foil.

Happy landings - RW

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Fly Boy! I'm with you man!! Actually I'm worse. I've never flown(read crashed) before a couple of months ago. Both the planes I've purchased are brushed motor types, and I'm currently attempting to get an internet inspired scratch build to fly using a brushed motor from one of my cars! :D

I'm starting to think that I should use a gearbox, so the motor can get up to it's best revs (not highest necessarily) and turn the prop at the right speed too. I have no clue at the mo.

Edited By Chuck Planes on 18/07/2012 19:12:11

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Hi Chuck, thanks for the info. Got to say, have built Tom wright's Twin Boom, and one of his Pipe Laggers, both fly great with a brushless motors on 35Mhz. My current e glider with the brushed motor is still waiting for better weather. Will up date you after the maiden. Sorry Chuck cannot help you with the gear box conundrum. Still a newbie to the black arts. Cheers

For Romeo, thanks for the oven foil tip. Will give it a go.

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Chuck - I certainly agree with you about the gearbox allowing the motor to run close to it’s unloaded speed, but, as always, there are problems to overcome. A gearbox has to be a quality item if it’s going to run for longer than five minutes without wearing out, so that comes at a price, also it can absorb some of the power produced, in the case of small motors perhaps significantly so, and it also adds weight. So in the case of the small brushed motor, it’s possible that it’s not really a viable option. Therefore is it still possible to purchase such gearboxes nowadays?

With regard to brushless motors, the larger size inrunner motor, which due to it’s configuration develops high revs but has less torque often used a gearbox, at least in the past when I was into hotliners, but you had to be really serious about flying with these because you really needed a nice wide bank balance, but as the development of outrunner motors has proceeded at a pace the cost has dropped dramatically and also because due to the increased torque they can turn at a slower speed but still provide the same power.

When I consider the current needed to drive an electric motor, I always think it’s worth remembering that the revolutions are a function of this current in amperes squared. Thus if I reduce the revolutions by half, by increasing the load and putting a bigger prop on, say, I increase the current by a factor of four. Halving it again will crank up the amount by sixteen times, and dividing by two just once more whacks it up by an impressive two hundred and fifty six times. This might start to bring on the hot flushes perhaps, so this is why I think it’s always quite a sound plan to keep the motor motoring, so to speak, fairly fast, at least somewhere up near the speed that it’s intended to run at.

This is all a bit bye-the-bye really, I’m not right up to date with today’s kit. But I’d tend to think that some brushed motors at least may eventually become collector’s items, maybe?

Good Luck.

PB

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Posted by fly boy3 on 18/07/2012 21:51:21:

Hi Chuck, thanks for the info. Got to say, have built Tom wright's Twin Boom, and one of his Pipe Laggers,

Pipe Laggers? Does that mean what I think it means? Made of foam pipe lagging? Hah! I've read that before somewhere, possibly on this forum.

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All my experience in RC has been with racing off road up till now.

And I've only ever owned one brushless motor, which still resides in my 4 kilo 1/8th scale 'Truggy' that I converted from Nitro to electric, simply because I've always used it. But that motor is big and heavy anyway and so is that ESC that came with it from Hobbywing. It can run with 2, 3 or 4 cells Lipo and is hugely torquey. I ran it with 12cells NIMh anyway. But other than that All my stuff is brushed 540 size motors . But I figure that if they can go fast on the ground, they won't exactly be failures in the air. With the right gearing and powering the correct weight aircraft.

I've already learned that direct prop fitment is not exactly ideal. Though I've only tried one motor so far, it was a good one.

Hmm, one useful thing to remember about brushed motors, is what Ben B mentioned. You can run a brushed motor wet weather and even in water. We used to do that when racing club standard motors. You're not allowed to open the 'can' of the motor. So we would run each motor in under water on a half voltage pack. That meant that the commutator was beded into the brushes at the coolest possible temperature, and the water also washed out most of the dust too. We'd then immediately run the motor in air and re oil the bearings. Haha! I did this in the club house toilet on more than one occasion!!! thumbs up face 20

So if you can weather proof your electronics, (not as hard as some might think), you can fly on rainy days! Ok, you may not be able to see the plane, but hey, that's just being picky!

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Chuck, where have you been pal ? Tom Wright has designed a series of Pipe laggers. High wingers. low wingers, bi planes etc, in the air for around £25 !, that includes motor, and battery, servos etc.You are correct, the fus. is 2inch diameter Pipe Lagging ( B&Q) the rest is 3mm Depron. Exellent value for money, great fun had by all and great fliers.. Will send you a link. In the mean time put pipe lagger in to the search box top l/h of page and see some exellent videos of them flying. Cheers

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Sorry Chuck failed on the link job (must read the manual). Put the word SIX into the search box as in my last post, and click on the title Six Different Quick Build Fun Planes. There are no drawings as such, but Tom's blog gives all the info you need to know. Tonight the wind dropped to zero, off I went to the patch with a 16min flight with my di hedral tipped wing Pipe Lagger. What more does a man need. LoL

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